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Everything posted by glen

  1. Looking for partners to get some rope time. I climbed consistently for about 15-20 years, kind of burned out and got distracted by mountain biking for a few years (hey, it's fun!). In that time I sold my trad rack to a friend who needed one (and was headed to Yosemite a lot, so there's that), and generally lost climbing fitness. In the interim most of my climbing partners have moved out of town, had kids, or otherwise are no longer available for local climbing. Anyways, the spark was reignited this summer and I've been dabbling at getting back into climbing shape physically and mentally. But, it is tough to make much progress without regular climbing partners. So, I'm looking for folks to crag with, do TR laps, get some easy leading in, and get just generally get rope time. It is sunny out, so would rather hit somewhere like Marymoor than a gym for after work climbs. That said, I'm not opposed to Stone Gardens or VW. I'm also interested in rolling out to Exit 38, etc. weekdays, or places like Leavenworth over weekends. Not doing much more than 5.9 right now, but it is coming back fast.
  2. Seattle-ish rope time

    Dan, Midweek is tough for me to get out to crags (stupid work). Let's keep in touch though.
  3. Rusty but ready

    See my post in the Climbing Partners section. If you are still looking for partners, drop me a message.
  4. Static Point

    Anyone been up to Static Point recently and have info on if it's dry and ready for some climbing?
  5. I'm selling my: - trusty Whisperlite International stove - 6 red MSR fuel bottles in a couple of sizes. - 3-piece MSR stainless steel pot set (Alpine 4) (1,2 and 3 L pots with lids) It's all been well-used and have all of the expected cosmetic blemishes, but they work well and won't disappoint. I live in Lynnwood, but work on Eastlake, which is a short hop down from the U-district. $50 obo takes it all. Please contact me via email at wallace_glen -at- yahoo. New, this would run close to $200 ($70 for the stove, $70 for the pots, and at least another $70 for the fuel bottles). Thanks! Glen
  6. VW on Thursdays

    see PMs
  7. Split Boards...

    Reminder that REI offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee. I purchased a voile splitboard, took it out for a day in the bc and decided that it wasn't $800 better than snowshoes. REI took it back... kudos to them. I think that the decision as to whether or not a splitboard is the way to go depends on a few factors, including the type of terrain you are working in. If you are in steep terrain and mostly yo-yoing in the cascades, don't bother with the splitboard as it won't save you much time on the whole. If you are planning on doing more extended trips through moderate terrain, then it is a good option. Also note that to make good use of a splitboard moderate skiing ability is prerequisite. The voile setup is great, and totally top notch. The skins climb well, the setup is easy and the transition, while not as quick as with snowshoes, is still pretty fast.
  8. Yakima Camping

    Seems his technique was pretty effective in the end...
  9. Looking for suggestions for a good, one to two day alpine climb in the Cascades, probably more towards the eastern parts of the range. For the group that is going, probably nothing harder than 5.7. If there are a few good climbs in an area that could be hit from a single base camp, that would be ideal as well (and the hot springs, and the perfect tent spot, and the perfect cooking rock, and nice views of everything, and... ). thoughts?
  10. Dream Gym

    Okay folks, here it is... the 64 cent question. What would your ideal gym be like? I think we all know that 100' indoor routes would be nice, but what do you really want... good cracks? friction slabs? sauna? weight room or weight area? Hot staff? Freezer room with ice columns (next to the sauna for the belayer, of course)? What's it gonna be? Or is it as simple as a tarp and heat lamps at the local favorite crag?

    I think spray skirts should stay in the Spray section. Though, it could be argued that the skirts usually, and wisely, stay away from the Spray section. Hope you figure it out.
  12. Cordillera Blanca

    I'll throw in a second vote for Edwards In Huaraz. I also stayed there in July '96 and thought it was great. I stayed at a place called the Continental (translated) which was okay as well. At the time, Edward's was really helpful with strorage in their bodega while we were out in the hills for a week at a time. Glen
  13. Explain this picture please

    I thought it was the 'obvious descent route'?
  14. I was looking through the NPS jobs board and noticed that Mount Rainier is hiring a climbing ranger (mountaineering, of course). I figure someone on here is probably qualified and interested. It is listed on www.usajobs.opm.gov
  15. Adventuring

    I'll throw another recommendation in for the Cordillera Blanca. There is tons of stuff to do there, the locals are awesome and there are so many Quebradas out there to explore that 2-3 months would be easy to fill. The standard trek through Quebrada Santa Cruz and Llanganuco offer many side trips to great looking peaks (Huascaran, Alpamayo, Artesan Raju, etc.) in addition to many others. There are equally awesome trips around there in other quebradas also. Just watch out for the mangy/crazed cows. I wish I could find the picture of one of the qubradas with grass like a golf green covering the floor with giant pristine granite boulders dotting it- a bouldering haven with big walls all around for the taking. Yum.
  16. Extreme Alpinism: Twight

    My favorite quote from the book (may be paraphrased): "It doesn't have to be fun to be fun." Useful for graduate school too.
  17. Cordillera Blanca in June!

    Have fun down there, it is awesome! Just watch out for the water... I got a bug down there that landed me in the hospital... scary shit.
  18. Brand spankin' new Rottefella G6 telemark bindings. These are still in the box with all the plastic wrap and such. Virign. Never mounted. Barely seen the light of day when the box was briefly opened. These are sweet bindings. They retail for about $150 to $160 online. Yours for $110. email me at wallace_glen -at- yahoo dot com. If you like pictures of pretty things, they are online at:
  19. Telemark Bindings For Sale

    They are still available...
  20. Dream Gym

    I think iain wins for funniest response...
  21. Telemark Bindings For Sale

    Yes. Though, for the life of me, I can't figure out what about them would make them gender specific.
  22. I'll give you cash for your crash pad

    Jens, I have a Metolius Crash Pad to sell. It is average size, has backpack straps, dual foam densities (soft and hard on opposite sides) and works well at keeping you from snapping ankles and tweaking tailbones. It also works well as a couch at the campsite when you lean it against your car. $50. PM me if interested.
  23. Sierra High Route

    Are you thinking for the upcoming summer or??? I've leafed longingly through the tote book and the more recent Roper guide. The route looks great. Just today I was looking at Sierra xc routes and reflecting on some fun ones I've done in the Yosemite high country. I'm guessing you are thinking of a July or August time frame? My schedule is too vague to make plans now, but am *definitely* interested.
  24. Somebody talk caveman, dwayner, and gregw

    Funny, I thought Lambone was a bit silent around these parts because he was spending his time big walling in Yosemite and travelling the world...
  25. Any of you folks out there ever lived in/around Washington DC? Any comments on the climbing, biking and outdoor stuff in the winter there? I've been to Great Falls (which are just a bump by Cascade standards) for some climbing about 4 years ago, but not much else around there. I have a good job offer in DC, and am contemplating a big move east. How long is the drive out to places like Seneca, the Gunks, and the like? Anyone know about the mtn biking or cyclocross scene?