powderhound Posted December 5, 2010 Posted December 5, 2010 (edited) Trip: Strobach - FA: The Responsible Ladies Man WI5 Date: 12/5/2010 Trip Report: Left PDX at 9pm and headed to strobach friday night with skander, found FS rd 1202 beat down by plenty of hunters and other wander's, so I risked it and drove the jetta wagon up the road. Parked at the 2nd meadow and slept for a couple hours. used slow shoes to approach, but didnt sink too much, only about 14in's of snow. came to the motherlode to find things thin but still forming. dropline through tower of power the routes lookers left of dropline until separation gully were in but thin...so I guess in is subjective to some. I had never been over to primus suckus so I walked that way. first on the left looked the most in of any of the routes. unholy baptism's first pitch was a cool looking thin sheet of ice. we climbed this: which is am pretty sure is a FA. now maybe known as "the responsible ladies man" P1: Ascend body length pillar starting in lower left corner of picture to smear in corner to the ledge WI3+ M4 30M, stubbies, BD #3 pecker, #3 & #.75 BD camalot for pro. could place more in crack left of smear. Walk on ledge sixty feet to second pitch. Good yellow alien and #1 pecker for anchor just right of 2nd pitch ice. Pitch 2: 46M WI5 I recommend not toping out. Having Fun:) back in portland by 10pm for a date Gear Notes: slow shoes, compass, whiskey, herb like fruit, next time bring more than nine screws. Approach Notes: Look in the guide Edited December 5, 2010 by powderhound Quote
ivan Posted December 5, 2010 Posted December 5, 2010 you still sporting hte 'stache or did that have to go for the ice n' the ladies? Quote
Alex Posted December 6, 2010 Posted December 6, 2010 Congratulations! To my knowledge this is indeed an FA, as the one party who had attempted it previously - on their first exploratory adventure to Strobach - made it halfway up before they bailed due to daylight. Looks great, looks harder than the typical shape I've seen it in, so good work getting after it in thinner early season shape! Very aptly named For those of you not as familiar with the area, this is perhaps the most "formed" I've seen this area this early in the season in a very long time. Bodes well for a strong ice season up there! Quote
kevino Posted December 6, 2010 Posted December 6, 2010 Glad you found a partner and got out. Things sure are shaping up nicely from when I was up there 2.5 weeks ago! Quote
John Frieh Posted December 6, 2010 Posted December 6, 2010 Best. Route name. Ever. Well done kids! :rawk: Quote
spionin Posted December 7, 2010 Posted December 7, 2010 whoa! way to start the season ...in full sprint! congrats, badasses. Quote
ivan Posted December 8, 2010 Posted December 8, 2010 whoa! way to start the season ...in full sprint! . yeah, i hate rope-guns too...or did you mean somethign else? Quote
wayne Posted March 5, 2012 Posted March 5, 2012 Just did the 2nd ascent of this quality route. Very fun. Good job Bryan! Maybe I am gettin old but WI5? Quote
powderhound Posted March 6, 2012 Author Posted March 6, 2012 Just did the 2nd ascent of this quality route. Very fun. Good job Bryan! Maybe I am gettin old but WI5? Must be getting old:) Nice work, did you use flotation to get in there? Quote
The Ospray Posted March 19, 2012 Posted March 19, 2012 Wait so is it hard or easy for WI5? I'd like to give it a whack someday, but if its hard for the grade I think I might have someone else lead it Quote
Alex Posted March 19, 2012 Posted March 19, 2012 I think Wayne was trying to say WI5 might be too lenient a rating for this route. Quote
wayne Posted March 19, 2012 Posted March 19, 2012 40m of unrelenting vertical, 2 foot rests. caught it in thinnish shape. Quote
The Ospray Posted March 20, 2012 Posted March 20, 2012 So what do you think you would rate it Wayne1112? Quote
The Ospray Posted March 21, 2012 Posted March 21, 2012 WI5.4 Thanks, that doesn't help much though! I'm not as good of an ice climber as you are, I imagine, so I can't just jump on any old WI5. But if its easy for the grade or not a total sandbag, I might feel more comfortable getting on such an unpublished route. Oh well probably out of my league anyways. Quote
Vernman23 Posted March 21, 2012 Posted March 21, 2012 be a pretty stout lead for a new WI5 leader would be my guess from looking at it. But thats just my .02$ Quote
andyf Posted March 27, 2012 Posted March 27, 2012 So I don't want to intrude on anyone's sacred ice climbing territory, but anyone looked at Strobach for summer rock potential? I've hiked that cliff line a couple of times over the years, most recently probably 10 years ago, and always thought it looked...interesting, but I've always been focused elsewhere in the Tieton. There are dirty swaths where the winter ice forms, but there's also lots of clean rock, and the striking arete to the right of TRLM has always stuck in my mind. Just wondering. Andy Quote
wayne Posted March 27, 2012 Posted March 27, 2012 Could be something Yoder would exploit. Ask him on fbook. I saw some decent rock, we need a gondola up there. The mixed potential is out of this state type good. Washington's Hyalite. Quote
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