Lets talk gloves!

[layton]

Gloves are probably the single most expensive piece of ice climbing gear I can think of pound for pound.

 

What do you guys like for leading WI in balmy vs cold, drytooling, and belaying.

 

So far my fav is the BD Punisher for leading WI in most temps, and the Bald Eagle Mechanic glove for cheapest glove with the most warmth and dexterity ($14).

 

I don't like the OR Alibi drytool glove as it constricts blood flow in my hand for the size the fits my fingers. I like the Marmot spring glove, but it's a bit slippery.

 

Old favs were the Cloudveil Iceflow and the Marmot Alpinist 5 finger.

 

I'd like the hear what cold condition glove people have found to provide the most dexterity.

[MJaso]

I used the OR Stormtracker gloves in Ouray this past January. Spent several days out in 20°F weather and I loved them. Great dexterity and they keep my hands plenty warm. I run hot and hate using thick gloves with tools.

[summitchaserCJB]

The less I pay for something the more I want to use it for some reason. 15$ target gloves lasted a whole season of abuse and I was rarely cold.

Not to say there aren't wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy better options. Just if people are looking to cut corners in anywhere in the cascades, gloves can be the place to do that. And as the OP mentioned- gloves can be pricey! I'd rather have a nice puffy than nice gloves. But this is a glove thread so I'll stay on topic. I'm sure there are lots of other opinions on this topic as well.

[G-spotter]

 

$10 a pair, warm, dexterous, don't rappel to well (rope burn)

I have a pair of the $50 BD softshell gloves with leather palms for rappelling in.

 

Last years' pair of Ninja Ice lasted all season, but I think hey only might make it halfway through this season. Then I'll have to pony up $10 for another pair.

[bearbreeder]

rab latok ... mercury mitts for belay

[Farrgo]

Currently have six pairs of of BD punisher gloves. I used them from roadside mixed climbing and long ice routes to 20k alpine climbs.

 

For harder mixed climbs I use the torque gloves and they seem fine. Although I often try to gloveless and put gloves on once I get on the ice.

 

On cold days I will often throw in my Ice Gloves just in case the conditions outmatch the Punishers. It's also really nice to throw on these gloves for the rap and walk out. With a pair of hand warmers your hands will be toasty.

 

I used to climb in cheaper thin scholler gloves, which work okay. The dexterity is great, the warmth isn't. I'll still use these in warmer spring conditions. Also, used to climb with Atlas work gloves but one particularly memorable screaming barfy experience relegated these to bushwack approaches.

[joshzielinski]

rab latoks...

 

where did you get those? i've yet to find someone who stocks these. they look awesome.

 

jz

[bearbreeder]

europe bound in vancouver 65$ can per pair ... they are awesome ... soft, gripy, decently warm with liners and very flexible ...

 

 

 

Edited October 14, 2010 by bearbreeder

[spionin]

rab latoks...

 

where did you get those? i've yet to find someone who stocks these. they look awesome.

 

jz

 

2nd ascent in seattle is supposed to get some in soon.

 

i really wish these came in small sizes - they feel AMAZING.

[DaveH]

The Rab Latoks at Europe Bound in Vancouver are CDN$75 + taxes (12%) so that makes them CDN$84 which at current exchange rates is basically USD$84.

 

I wonder how those sticky silicon palms will hold up handling screws and other metal hardware bits compared to leather palms - anyone had any experience with them so far?

[divnamite]

I've been using Kinco Pigskin Gloves. Keep my hands warm entire day. Less than $10.

 

[img:left]http://kinco.com/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/LINED_GRAIN_PIGS_4bb6e74eb30d8.png[/img]

 

[trainwreck]

OR Alibis for technical ice climbing and mixed, they fit small but are extremely dextrous and plenty warm for leading.

 

BD Punishers for belay and rappel duty.

 

OR Alpine Alibis for alpine ice, routes with snow, etc.

[tanstaafl]

Any glove recommendations for someone who runs cold and has a bit of Reynaud's to boot?

[ConorB]

[img:left]http://www.dcglove.com/images/products/2150R.jpg[/img]

Golden Eagle Gloves lined with Heatlok

 

Form Fitting, velcro, synthetic back, deerskin leather palm. insulated, fleece inside.

i use these if its pretty cold

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[img:left]http://www.dcglove.com/images/products/2152.jpg[/img]

White Eagle Gloves

 

very form fitting, same velcro synthetic combo, goatskin leather palm, not insulated, quite thin. these were great for when it was warm/ or "balmy"

 

i think each are around 11 dollars. no bulkiness like loose leather gloves either. these things hug your hands pretty well.

[davidk]

Rab Latok for leading moderates or in cold conditions. $55 from 2nd Ascent last year (call them now to get a pair - they get a limited shipment and sell out)

 

BD Punisher for really cold leading, and general belaying/rapping (got these on closeout last year, haven't actually climbed on them yet.)

 

***Favorite glove for ice:***

BD Impulse. Thin leather palm, softshell back with hi-loft fleece lining, padded/articulated fingers, long cuff with velcro. Best fitting glove I've ever worn, and my favorite to bust out for a hard lead. Supreme dexterity, and warm enough - just treat the palms liberally with snoseal.

 

This glove is part of BD's ski glove line, so not many climbers use it. Their new Arc glove looks awesome, and will probably end up being one of the top gloves on the market for leading ice. I tried a pair on, and they're pretty sweet.

[bearbreeder]

someone asked about latoks with metal gear ...

 

i never had a problem with screws ... i did have a problem with the gloves at -20 C temps when they were wet grasping the head of a quark axe ... the event menbrane got stuck to it ... kinda like licking a metal pole in winter ... had to use some hot teat from the thermos to sort that out

 

only used them for one season so far, but seems to be fine ... they DO lose a bit of loft though

 

on the other hand i can tie all my knots with those gloves on in -20 C weather ... if you have medium hands they work perfectly with nomics

 

for a sale get them at europe bound after xmas ... call after xmas when their sale usually is

[Plaidman]

I usually throw my gloves off when ice climbing as I am Scottish and that is the way it is done old school style. I hear that the seconds instead of following the rope would just follow the blood on the ice.

 

My hands don't get cold too often but I have used the Mad Rock armored knuckle gloves after Darrin Stone saw my bruised knuckles after a day climbing with him. He gave me a pair of these gloves to try. They are leather with armor plastic knuckles. They do get wet.

 

I do carry a pair of fluffy down mittens that I wear sometimes between to belay just in case I do get cold. This doesn't happen often especially in The Columbia River Gorge cause if the ice does come in it is just usually just above freezing.

 

In Colorado that's a different animal.

 

I don't really get on enough ice to be really an expert on this subject. But I have worked most of my professional career as a carpenter. Even in Colorado at 9000 ft. above sea level year round for 6 1/2 years.

Trying to hold nails with gloves sucks. So I just learned to suck it up.

 

That being said I am going to try some of the gloves that they make me wear in the union here. They have thermal gloves that have a latex coating. I also thought of getting some of the neoprene fishermans gloves they sell in sporting good stores.

Edited October 14, 2010 by Plaidman

[DPS]

I just bought these for myself and my wife: http://www.sierratradingpost.com/p/,2774H_Lowe-Alpine-Ice-Wall-Climbing-Gloves-For-Men.html Haven't used them yet but they have all the latest techy glove features.

 

I ended up paying less than $50.00 for them with a coupon. I bought them because the last pair of gloves I bought ten years ago for about $50 are also Lowe Alpine and are hands down (get it?) the best gloves ever. Leather fingers and palms, Triple Point Ceramic shell, Primaloft insulation. Very warm, very durable, yet very dexteritous.

[G-spotter]

I read something on UKClimbing a month or so ago about the Chamonix guides pooling money and ordering a box of 100 Ninja Ice's of various sizes shipped over from the US for the forthcoming season.

[Jon H]

My favorite "warm weather" glove is the OR Vert - thin, relatively cheap, and relatively warm. Nice sticky leather palm. (Thanks to Dane for turning me on to them!) Perfect for those days that are 25-30 degrees, sunny, and dry. The classic ice cragging day.

 

My favorite cold glove is the Mountain Hardwear Hydra - it's the first glove where the waterproof membrane is bonded directly to the nylon shell (instead of being a free-hanging liner) so when you pull your soaking wet hands out of the glove, the liner does not invert. It's amazing. Good durability too - probably have 30+ pitches on them, 5-10 rappels and they still look brand new. I get out about 15-20 days per season and I figure I'll get 3-4 years out of them. Fits true to size. Go up a size if you'll want to wear a liner glove for extra warmth.

 

For ugly, chossy, rough conditions (and all rappels) I use a pair of cheap insulated leather work gloves like the Kincos. I also Sno-Seal them liberally every 2-3 days of climbing. Pro tip: put them in the oven at a low temp for 15 minutes before Sno-Sealing - they'll absorb the wax like a sponge, it's amazing. Just don't forget them in the oven!!

 

I also have BD Mercury Mitts for belays when it gets reaaal cold... I usually need them in the single digits and lower.

 

This season I'll be carrying 2 pairs with me for a day of ice - one on my hands, one drying inside my jacket, I like to switch off every pitch. Depending on the temps I'll either have 2 Verts or 2 Hydras. I'll toss the work gloves in the pack if the objective requires multiple long rappels at the end of the day.

 

On routes where I positively know I'll be getting wet (running water, wallowing in fresh snow on the approach, etc), I'll frequently carry a 3rd pair just for the approach.

 

Read andy kirkpatrick's blog on gear - this guy climbs in the worst weather on earth and has his system more dialed than anyone. And Kirkpatrick - Psychovertical

Edited October 14, 2010 by Jon H

[BigSky]

I wonder how those sticky silicon palms will hold up handling screws and other metal hardware bits compared to leather palms - anyone had any experience with them so far?

I climbed in them a bit last season and they held up pretty well, but they're no leather.

In reference to the OP I like the Rab M14 and Rab Phantom Grip for leads in all but the coldest temps. I'll sacrifice a good deal for increased dexterity. The Phantom Grip's are just hard-face WindPro but they dry fast enough that I rotate two pairs for leads and stay comfortable.

[layton]

[img:left]http://www.dcglove.com/images/products/2150R.jpg[/img]

Golden Eagle Gloves lined with Heatlok

 

Form Fitting, velcro, synthetic back, deerskin leather palm. insulated, fleece inside.

i use these if its pretty cold

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[img:left]http://www.dcglove.com/images/products/2152.jpg[/img]

White Eagle Gloves

 

very form fitting, same velcro synthetic combo, goatskin leather palm, not insulated, quite thin. these were great for when it was warm/ or "balmy"

 

i think each are around 11 dollars. no bulkiness like loose leather gloves either. these things hug your hands pretty well.

 

fuck yeah!

The white one with Thinsulate lining is my fav- I can climb to pretty cold temps with it. Honestly, if BD or someone made this glove, everyone would own a pair

[BigSky]

You can get the Rab Latok's at Prolite Gear for $55 shipped. They have always been great to deal with and it looks like they are cheaper than elsewhere. Gloves go fast as ice season hits, so I'd move sooner than later.