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Everything posted by bearbreeder

  1. Kong GiGi vs ATC Guide

    The mammut alpine smart will pull as smoothly as a gigi while in autoblock mode even with dual 10mm+ ropes And its an assisted locking device as well
  2. resole or shoe glue? rock shoes

    just put some shoe goo or seal grip on it ... youll have to reapply it every week or two ... IMO a resole on a leather shoe like the nago works for the first 1-2 times, after that they tend to stretch out quite a bit and become very soft like a slipper the nago isnt an expensive shoe either
  3. First Trad Rack!

    if your partners are pissed because you dont use a particular brand of cam, they can provide the rack ... or its time to find new partners worry about what YOU prefer ...
  4. First Trad Rack!

    1. what you propose will work fine for the stuff up here in squamish ... the cams and nuts all work fine, different people have different preferences 2. DO NOT buy your own gear before leading with more experienced partners ... youll use their gear, find out what you like or dont, and they can inspect yr placements 3. squamish is probably the best place to learn, and you dont need to wait till summer ... weve had a week of sun right now and its DRY ... the rock is excellent, the protection straight forward, theres tons of moderate cragging and multi, and even on many moderates the falls are decently clean ... its known as the kiddie playground of trad for a reason 4. dont bother with doubles as you should be climbing with experienced people who have at least part of a rack when starting out ... usually you need to decide what NOT to bring with 2 somewhat experienced trad leaders ... single + single = double =P
  5. Bivy Sack as Overbag?

    for an overbag that mitigates internal and some external moisture you need to have some synthetic filling ... a plain bivy wouldnt do the trick for a WPB bivy, you need WPB fabric, a synthetic bag without such wouldnt do the trick why not just use a synthetic bag if you are worried about moisture ... pair that up with a UL tarp that you can wrap the subject/yourself in if you need
  6. Fast N Lite Packs

    a few years ago i met some canadian armed forces training in the bluffs, a few of em had cierzos, i asked how they lasted (and they USE their gear), they said that if your going to climb rock get a pack cover cause they dont last long stupidly i forgot this advice when the new shiny bling model came out ... the 25L one fit quite well and only weighed 400gms ... after a month on moderate multis (no hauling or chimneys) the sides blew out ... the 100D sides dont stand abrasion at all IMO especially if you have a few hard objects (water bottles) that the rock can rub against with the fabric ... IMO these UL packs with thin denier fabrics are a very specialized tool ... something with a thicker fabric doesnt weight much more and will last much longer ... its funny that dead bird recommends the cierzo for "rock climbing" right on their page
  7. Fast N Lite Packs

    doesnt matter how many dead bird logos they put on the cierzos ... mine lasted about a month before getting holes on rock, no hauling or chimneys
  8. Dynamic Rope Shelf Life

  9. Shell repair

    is the membrane coming apart, or is it just a tear ... if the former send it to rab ...
  10. Shell repair

    what jacket ... some brands and retailers have spectacular warranty service ... if its EB, OR, REI, MEC, etc ... youre in luck if its a defect .. and if it isnt theyll still cover it, you just have to live with the moral bashing youll get online and your own conscience
  11. layers

    if you are simply sitting around ... the down will work better UNDER the synth ... the problem of course being that you need to take off the synth to get the down on ... thus more faff ... but youll be doing that anyways i guess with with the shell on the outside
  12. Hydra EXT fail... better glove?

    yeah ... you got a defective set ... the outdry layer is leaking ... hopefully MH takes care of you ... if not, a good retailer like REI/Backcountry will ... unless ur a bushwhacker that is someone mentioned the rab latoks ... they are half the price and they are waterproof, if you avoid getting em soaked through that big honking hoke ... http://www.spadout.com/p/rab-latok-gloves/#
  13. Hydra EXT fail... better glove?

    put the gloves in a bowl of water for about an hour .... that will tell you if its defective or something else
  14. Baruntse - WTF

    buy from REI/MEC/Backcountry ... that way you dont need to have this "moral" discussion on an intraweb forum ... theyll take care of you ... period ... as for someone mentioning reviews .... i always thought that it would be great if a reviewer after using the gear "normally" .... would just abuse it to hell and see how long it lasts ... many reviews rarely mention anything about how long a product lasts, or in fact anything bad straight out anyways .... but i suspect that theyll no longer get free stuff if they do
  15. uneven half ropes

    yes it does ... because in this thread we are talking about chopping a 60m rope to a 58m ... which in no way will make you any "safer" lets make it absolutely and utterly clear .. for the OP chopping his 60m to 58m will NOT make him any safer on rappel vs not chopping it ... does anyone disagree with that at all .... think about what the OP is asking ... as to not knowing the length of the rap, etc, etc ... a shorter rope wont help you anymore than a longer rope ... period ... if you cant see BOTH ends on the ground and you ASSUME without basic safety precautions ... i kindly suggest you get back to the basics ... rather than "depending" on perfectly even rope lengths (which no two different ropes from the factory are exact) ... one of these days youll be rapping on a rope you dont know or forgot is chopped and youll be screwed regardless
  16. uneven half ropes

    absolutely and utterly incorrect as you arent going to be able to make a 65m rap with 2 60 m ropes ... vs a 60+70 regardless ... its NOT THE SAME RAP youre comparing it to there is absolutely NO RAPPEL that is safer with 2 60m that cannot be done as safely with a 60m+70m what you are failling to understand is that we are not talking about the OP doing 59 or 60m raps with a 2 58m vs a 60m+58m ... we are talking about 58m or less raps ... because if its more than 58m youre buying a new rope so explain to me exactly how exactly its "safer" again
  17. uneven half ropes

    again ... any rap that can be done with a 60m+58m wont be done any "safer" with 2 58m ropes ... and if it cant be done because its a 60m rap and you decide to do it anyways ... 2 chopped ropes or one chopped/one unchopped ... neither are going to allow you to do it regardless its simple logic ... not statements made by some that ... I would not cut only one rope -- every year there are numerous accidents that have to do with rappel failures of some kind. Saving $200 is not worth that risk. ..... Two ropes of unequal length are just waiting for an unintentional disaster. heres an example .... im a weak azzed climber and i bailed off the split pilar once with a 60m lead line and a 70m half rope tagline ...its 3x50m raps to the ground ... explain to me exactly how chopping 10m off my half rope will make me any safer on that rappel
  18. uneven half ropes

    Again ... Explain to me exactly how having 2 58m ropes is safer than 60m + 58m on the same rappel The exact situation where the 58s would save you but the 58+60 wont since yr claiming its "safer"
  19. uneven half ropes

    if you are rapping more than 58m ... yr dead regardless of whether its 2 58m or a 58m+ 60m ... except this time BOTH ends zip out of your plate ... if its not > 58m neither will zip out ... again can anyone give me an example where 2 58m is safer than a 58m+ 60m on the same rap???? or are we just trying to win an intraweb argument here without thinking about it first ... i have a mammut galaxy 10mm and a tendon ambition 10.2mm ... they are both theoretically 60m but there is probably a 2m difference between em form the factory .. are you saying that it is UNSAFE to use both on a 60m rap ????? you do realize that people rap off a rope + 7mm tag line where due tor stretch and sizing there is very likely a 2m+ difference all the time ... are they "unsafe" THINK people ... dont just go "unsafe, unsafe, unsafe"
  20. uneven half ropes

    and how many of those are on doubles ... i would bet that most of it are single ropes where the rapper didnt take basic precautions ie find the middle ... perhaps someone can tell me how exactly two 58m ropes makes you "safer" than one 60m + 58m if the rap is over 58m yr stills screwed no matter what ... and if its under that youre fine as theres no question on double raps as to the "middle mark" you guys DO realize that people rap off 2 different brands of ropes all the time where a "60m" can mean 60,61,62m depending on the rope and brand ... etc ... do you consider that unsafe and how so
  21. uneven half ropes

    well thats off topic ... but i submit that if you are dependent on duodess ropes to prevent rapping accidents, you are ignoring basic safety procedures IMO ... the OP has 2 types of climbs he will do ... 1. climbs with over a 58m rap (lets ignore stretch for now) ... which he wont do regardless ... for now ... but if he decides to do them in the near future he only needs to go out and buy one rope vs 2 if he keeps the length 2. climbs with under a 58m rap ... which wont matter if its slightly uneven ... because the raps will be all under his rope length ... and if they arent and he doesnt take the basic precautions regardless of chop/no chop ... hes dead anyways youll almost never end up with perfect lengths at the belay with halves if you use em like they are meant to be used ... if you did youd be using twins
  22. uneven half ropes

    deal with it ... all it means is pulling up an extra 6 feet first when the leader set up the belay ... not that hard is it now i mean they are half ropes .... theres also a good chance that theyll never be perfectly even at the belay regardless if theres any sort of traverse i see no reason to chop a perfectly good rope because of 6 feet .... perhaps the OP will want to buy another matching half instead of keep using the chopped one ... who knows .. more options are better as to "disaster" ... its quite simple 1. tell yr partner ... they are welcome to use their own ropes if they are uncomfortable ... youre going to tell em anyways if they are both chopped arent ya now .. 2. on rap, put a knot if you want ... its not like 2 58m ropes will get you down any better than a 58m and a 60m ... 3. if yr cragging on em ... tie knots in the ends youll be just as "disastrous" with 2 58m ones if you can ONLY use bicolour ropes ... you have a real issue im sorry to say ... plenty of people never use em and live just fine
  23. uneven half ropes

    deal with it ... as long as you know about it and take basic precautions youll be fine ... dont chop it as there is a possibility your chopped rope will be further damaged, and then youll need to buy 2 new halves instead of of 1 ...
  24. Lightening up my rack

    im a totally awful climber, compared to others out here anyways ... the point is simply a response to those who say that if you dont use C4s and aliens, you never climb anything "hard" ... well i would like to know where this magical hard point is where i cant use my metolius, DMMs, WCs .... its obviously harder than what i or some of my partners can climb the best way to lighten up the cams IMO is simply to get stronger and better .... youll end up placing less of them, within reason of course ... good nut placements and tricam placements always help of course, as long as your second is fast at cleaning em beyond that its your money ... any decent cam will work ... for a good view on metolius cams try this http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/second-set-of-cams/
  25. Lightening up my rack

    i used DMM, Metolius AND WC cams on a soft 5.12 this weekend ... obviously i dont climb hard enough hell i even placed nuts at the crux =P and im neither a brit, badass or old school =D my partners consistently use TCUs, Master Cams, etc ... on 12-/+ trad out here if you are a good climber you can use any decent cam ... its that simple