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About bearbreeder

  • Birthday 11/26/2017

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  1. The mammut alpine smart will pull as smoothly as a gigi while in autoblock mode even with dual 10mm+ ropes And its an assisted locking device as well
  2. just put some shoe goo or seal grip on it ... youll have to reapply it every week or two ... IMO a resole on a leather shoe like the nago works for the first 1-2 times, after that they tend to stretch out quite a bit and become very soft like a slipper the nago isnt an expensive shoe either
  3. if your partners are pissed because you dont use a particular brand of cam, they can provide the rack ... or its time to find new partners worry about what YOU prefer ...
  4. 1. what you propose will work fine for the stuff up here in squamish ... the cams and nuts all work fine, different people have different preferences 2. DO NOT buy your own gear before leading with more experienced partners ... youll use their gear, find out what you like or dont, and they can inspect yr placements 3. squamish is probably the best place to learn, and you dont need to wait till summer ... weve had a week of sun right now and its DRY ... the rock is excellent, the protection straight forward, theres tons of moderate cragging and multi, and even on many moderates the falls are decently clean ... its known as the kiddie playground of trad for a reason 4. dont bother with doubles as you should be climbing with experienced people who have at least part of a rack when starting out ... usually you need to decide what NOT to bring with 2 somewhat experienced trad leaders ... single + single = double =P
  5. for an overbag that mitigates internal and some external moisture you need to have some synthetic filling ... a plain bivy wouldnt do the trick for a WPB bivy, you need WPB fabric, a synthetic bag without such wouldnt do the trick why not just use a synthetic bag if you are worried about moisture ... pair that up with a UL tarp that you can wrap the subject/yourself in if you need
  6. a few years ago i met some canadian armed forces training in the bluffs, a few of em had cierzos, i asked how they lasted (and they USE their gear), they said that if your going to climb rock get a pack cover cause they dont last long stupidly i forgot this advice when the new shiny bling model came out ... the 25L one fit quite well and only weighed 400gms ... after a month on moderate multis (no hauling or chimneys) the sides blew out ... the 100D sides dont stand abrasion at all IMO especially if you have a few hard objects (water bottles) that the rock can rub against with the fabric ... IMO these UL packs with thin denier fabrics are a very specialized tool ... something with a thicker fabric doesnt weight much more and will last much longer ... its funny that dead bird recommends the cierzo for "rock climbing" right on their page
  7. doesnt matter how many dead bird logos they put on the cierzos ... mine lasted about a month before getting holes on rock, no hauling or chimneys
  8. http://www.theuiaa.org/upload_area/files/1/About_Ageing_of_Climbing_Ropes.pdf
  9. is the membrane coming apart, or is it just a tear ... if the former send it to rab ...
  10. what jacket ... some brands and retailers have spectacular warranty service ... if its EB, OR, REI, MEC, etc ... youre in luck if its a defect .. and if it isnt theyll still cover it, you just have to live with the moral bashing youll get online and your own conscience
  11. if you are simply sitting around ... the down will work better UNDER the synth ... the problem of course being that you need to take off the synth to get the down on ... thus more faff ... but youll be doing that anyways i guess with with the shell on the outside
  12. yeah ... you got a defective set ... the outdry layer is leaking ... hopefully MH takes care of you ... if not, a good retailer like REI/Backcountry will ... unless ur a bushwhacker that is someone mentioned the rab latoks ... they are half the price and they are waterproof, if you avoid getting em soaked through that big honking hoke ... http://www.spadout.com/p/rab-latok-gloves/#
  13. put the gloves in a bowl of water for about an hour .... that will tell you if its defective or something else
  14. buy from REI/MEC/Backcountry ... that way you dont need to have this "moral" discussion on an intraweb forum ... theyll take care of you ... period ... as for someone mentioning reviews .... i always thought that it would be great if a reviewer after using the gear "normally" .... would just abuse it to hell and see how long it lasts ... many reviews rarely mention anything about how long a product lasts, or in fact anything bad straight out anyways .... but i suspect that theyll no longer get free stuff if they do
  15. yes it does ... because in this thread we are talking about chopping a 60m rope to a 58m ... which in no way will make you any "safer" lets make it absolutely and utterly clear .. for the OP chopping his 60m to 58m will NOT make him any safer on rappel vs not chopping it ... does anyone disagree with that at all .... think about what the OP is asking ... as to not knowing the length of the rap, etc, etc ... a shorter rope wont help you anymore than a longer rope ... period ... if you cant see BOTH ends on the ground and you ASSUME without basic safety precautions ... i kindly suggest you get back to the basics ... rather than "depending" on perfectly even rope lengths (which no two different ropes from the factory are exact) ... one of these days youll be rapping on a rope you dont know or forgot is chopped and youll be screwed regardless
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