[TR] Gunsight Peak - S Face 6/17/2010

[Tom_Sjolseth]

Trip: Gunsight Peak - S Face

 

Date: 6/17/2010

 

Trip Report:

On June 11, Daniel Jeffrey and I made the trip to Stehekin en route to Gunsight Peak via Agnes and Spruce Creeks. Over a period of 7 days, we had a great adventure in one of the most beautiful areas in the North Cascades.

 

In the days leading up to our climb, the long-range forecast (although admittedly unreliable) called for pleasant weather for the next 7 days. As encouraging as the forecast was, the avalanche forecast was equally discouraging. NWAC had posted warnings of high to extreme avalanche danger between 7-8000’. Despite the NWAC forecast, and since I had been in the area twice before, we were confident we could navigate the terrain on the approach to Gunsight Peak safely. Daniel and I were excited to embark on a trip we had been planning for quite a while. We would take the boat up Lake Chelan to Stehekin, then ride a National Park Service shuttle to High Bridge, and finally hike 9 miles of forest followed by a 4500’ climb of steep, brushy terrain to a high camp at 7000’ along the Yew/Spruce Creek divide. From our high camp, we had hopes of climbing the obscure Asa Peak as well as several routes on Gunsight Peak, a peak consisting of some of the most solid, aesthetic rock in the range.

 

Route topo.

 

Day 1

 

The logistics involved with getting to Stehekin are somewhat of a hassle, but necessary for those wishing to explore this remote corner of the range. To begin with, one must take a two hour and forty-five minute ride on a passenger ferry from Field’s Point to Stehekin Landing. Once in Stehekin, a National Park Service shuttle delivers you up valley to High Bridge, where the trail up the West Fork of Agnes Creek begins. Nine miles and 1400’ later, you arrive at the relatively plush Swamp Creek Camp, one of many established sites for thru-hikers on the PCT.

 

After all was said and done, Daniel and I arrived in camp at 6PM, and we felt “jet-lagged” from the long trip. Along the trail, we narrowly escaped being smashed by a rogue windfallen tree that came crashing down onto the trail not 100 yards behind us. Thankful to survive an otherwise mundane approach, we got to bed early after eating dinner and sharing some spiced rum.

 

Day 2

 

S Fork of Agnes creek was flowing heavily, but we were able to find a huge log to cross on about a 9 minute hike up the trail from Swamp Creek. Once on the other side, the brush stole the MP3 player right out of Daniel’s pocket. From the valley bottom, we worked up between two giant swaths of slide alder, within earshot (and climber’s left) of a small watercourse. There is no avoiding dense Slide Alder and Vine Maple here, you pretty much have to just dive in. We bushwhacked for about 400 vertical feet before breaking out into the open on a steep, grassy, slabby rib. From here, the brush all but ends.

 

 

Typical Bushwhacking above Spruce Creek

 

 

We ascended the rib as high as we could go before it enters cliffy terrain below ASA Peak. At the apex of the rib, we traversed left for about a mile below ASA Peak and the Yew/Spruce Creek divide, finally gaining the divide itself at the obvious saddle SE of Pt 7458. This would be our camp for the remainder of the trip.

 

 

Views up the S Fork Agnes Creek valley.

 

Daniel getting a little weird after bushwhacking through dense brush. Notice the plume of flies surrounding his head.

 

Getting into the snow now.

 

Bonanza Peak to Saddle Bow Mountain. Suiattle and Cloudy Passes between.

 

Looking down into S Fork of Agnes Creek.

 

Lyall Ridge from the approach.

 

 

Before turning in for the night, Daniel and I traversed the Yew/Spruce Creek divide to Asa Peak (Pt 7060). Here, we were delighted to find the oldest summit register we’ve ever seen. Asa Post, as part of a Government scouting party, first signed the register on August 2, 1908 – 102 years prior to our visit. The slip of paper on which he signed his name was in perfect condition, protected by some cans that they carried up on the original ascent. 37 years after Asa made his first ascent, his son Austin signed the register with, “Hello Dad”. We knew at least one person in every party that had signed the register since. Along with the historic slips of paper was a neat photo of the first ascent party lounging around the summit. We held the photo up to nearby Agnes Peak and the scene we were looking at in front of us was identical to the scene depicted in the photo. What a neat piece of history!

 

 

Asa Post’s historic summit entry in the Asa Peak summit register.

 

Austin Post’s summit entry.

 

Views to the west from Asa Peak.

 

Daniel on the summit of Asa Peak.

 

Traversing the ridge back to camp from Asa Peak.

 

Views from camp.

 

Ticks!

 

 

Day 3

 

On day 3, we awoke to clear skies. By the time we got moving around 8AM, it was already getting warm. We made our way over to Gunsight Peak traversing the obvious ridge. The snow was very soft, and we were glad to have snowshoes. At times we were walking on top of the snow, and at other times we were postholing knee deep in snowshoes! It took us quite a while to cover the 2 miles between camp and the base of Gunsight Peak, thanks to the soft snow. By the time we got there, temperatures were in the 80s and we were getting cooked by the sun.

 

 

Daniel traversing to Gunsight.

 

Views along the way.

 

Gunsight Peak.

 

Looking North to Old Guard and Sentinel Peaks.

 

Agnes Mountain looms behind Daniel.

 

A large bear track in the snow.

 

A frozen Blue Lake.

 

More views from the traverse to Gunsight Peak.

 

Huge cornices loom above Icy Creek.

 

Me approaching Gunsight Peak.

 

Me in front of Gunsight.

 

The main peak of Gunsight.

 

 

Our original objective was the NE Face of Main Gunsight, a 6 pitch route to 5.10d. Upon arriving at the base of the main peak, however, we were deterred by the soft snow over the bergschrund. Instead, we spied another line to climber’s left that we thought might go. It started out with loose 5.7 climbing leading up to a steep headwall where we encountered twin cracks (5.10). In the lower section, we found a rusty stopper that someone had left on a previous ascent (attempt?). Daniel led up the twin cracks, removing loose chockstones as he climbed. Above the cracks, he worked behind a huge block. Ahead was an ice and snow filled chimney, which looked impossible in the current conditions. Minus the snow and ice, the chimney looked like a great route. We bailed from a sling on a horn and did one and a half 60m rappels back to the base of the peak. As we were doing so, Steve Trent made two fly overs in an EA6B Prowler. On the second pass, he headed straight towards us. What a neat sight!

 

 

The traverse from the ridge to the base of the route.

 

Looking up from low on the route.

 

Moderate climbing on relatively loose rock (loose for Gunsight).

 

Daniel belaying me over to the start of the twin cracks.

 

The beautiful twin cracks. We turned around above these cracks, just out of view.

 

 

After backing off the E Face, we decided to check out the S Face route from the notch between the Main and S Peaks. After ascending loose, dangerous rock and snow to the notch, the clouds began to move in and envelop us. At that point, it appeared as if weather was moving in. Rain soon began to fall lightly, dashing any hopes we had to summit that day.

 

 

Me rigging the rappel to get the heck out of dodge.

 

Looking down the gully to the west, down to the Chickamin Glacier.

 

Our opinion of the situation.

 

Looking down the loose approach gully.

 

From sunshine to gray in two hours!

 

 

We made it back to camp without getting too much precipitation. We had no idea what the future held in store for us in terms of weather, so we were a bit anxious that night to see what tomorrow would bring.

 

 

Day 4

 

On the fourth day, we awoke (surprisingly) to mostly sunny skies. We were thankful to get another chance at Gunsight Peak. In light of how quick the weather conditions changed the previous day, we were eager to move fast to beat any possible precipitation that might hamper our climb.

 

 

Daniel rehydrating on the way back to Gunsight Peak.

 

 

Since the night was so cold, the snow had firmed up quite nicely. We were hopeful that we would get on the NE Face. As we traversed over to the face from the ridge, we noticed that the initial 5.10b finger crack had snow at the bottom. Higher up, we saw drips from snowpatches in the middle of our route. Aside from all this, we didn’t want to carry boots with us for the difficult climbing and we were unsure how to get back across the snow to the base of our route to retrieve our packs in rock shoes. With all this considered, we decided to bail on the NE Face and go check out the S Face again.

 

We climbed up the loose gully again to the notch between the Main and S Peaks. From here, the routes described in Beckey traverse W before ascending. Instead, we decided to climb straight up from the notch. On the first pitch, we encountered fun, solid 5.8 climbing with good pro. Daniel led this pitch and belayed me up. I took over for the second pitch and led us up and left, eventually gaining the ridge crest just below the summit (5.8). From here, we finished the last bit to the tiny summit on wildly exposed terrain among stunning views.

 

 

Daniel climbing the first pitch above the notch.

 

Looking down at the first pitch.

 

Me climbing the first pitch out of the notch.

 

Looking back at the S Peak from pitch 1.

 

Daniel at the first belay.

 

Me beginning the second pitch.

 

Looking back from mid way up the second pitch.

 

Me nearing the ridgecrest on pitch 2.

 

Belaying Daniel up the final bit to the summit.

 

Looking back at me from just below the summit.

 

Daniel climbing just below the summit.

 

Clouds over Dome Peak.

 

Looking back down the route from the final belay.

 

Another look down the route.

 

Daniel on the summit block.

 

Summit views.

 

More views.

 

Sinister Peak from the summit.

 

Me on the summit of Gunsight Peak.

 

More views.

 

More summit views.

 

Daniel rappelling back to the notch from the summit.

 

The view to Agnes Mountain from the notch.

 

Daniel getting ready to toss the rope for our rappel from the notch.

 

Daniel on rappel.

 

 

We headed back to camp just as weather began to move in again. As we ate our dinner that evening, it began to snow. The winds picked up, and we headed inside the tent.

 

 

Gunsight Peak from the return trip.

 

Artsy tree shot.

 

Weather moving in as we return to camp.

 

Daniel returning to camp.

 

 

Day 5

 

It snowed all night and when we awoke on the morning of the fifth day, it was still snowing. There was ~4” of fresh snow all around us, and it continued to come down. We decided to sit it out and wait for it to clear before beginning our descent.

 

 

Fresh snow.

 

...

 

Daniel enjoying a brief break in the weather to brew coffee.

 

Our camp under a fresh blanket of snow.

 

What’s that smell?

 

Day 6 and 7

 

Icicles hanging out on our tent.

 

We awoke on the morning of the sixth day to mostly cloudy skies and light flurries. At this point, we had spent the past 36 hours in the tent. We were beginning to go stir crazy. We got out of the tent, made some coffee, and the snow magically let up - but not before dumping about 8" of fresh snow on us. At this point, we packed up and headed down before the weather decided to change its mind.

 

We were surprised to encounter dry brush on the way out. The brief sun breaks had been warm enough to dry everything out so we weren’t completely soaked by the time we got to the creek. Anxious to have a beer and some normal food, we huffed it all the way out to the TH in ~6 hours from our 7,000’ high camp. We caught the last shuttle back to Stehekin just as it began to rain in earnest.

 

The rain didn’t let up until the following morning. We were glad to make it back without getting soaked, and enjoyed the last few hours in Stehekin talking with local residents while waiting for the ferry.

 

 

Bear sighting at High Bridge.

 

Camping in Stehekin – Hobo style.

 

 

So despite not climbing the routes we wanted to, it was still another fine adventure into the N Cascades!

 

Gear Notes:

Two 60m ropes

Double rack of cams

Two pickets

Snowshoes

Bourbon

 

 

Approach Notes:

Devil's clubs, slide alder

[TMO]

Now thats a trip report! Way to get after it!!!

[lunger]

awesome.

[jshamster]

[JoshK]

Right on! When Tvash and I were up in Glacier Peak Meadows he mentioned you had headed off on a long trip up in the Gunsight area. We too sat in the tent for over a day, completely stir-crazy and bored out of our minds. We wondered what it was like for you up there! Glad to see you were able to at least squeeze in something and it sure looks like you got your adventures worth!

[BirdDog]

Absolutely awesome TR! I was wondering what you have been up to. Congrats. The summit register pics are something else, must have cool to see that. Well done guys.

[G-spotter]

[mountainmatt]

Hells yeah Tom! I was wondering if the snow would behave enough for you to git er dun, apparently it worked out!

 

 

[mountainsloth]

well done, and well told!

[keenwesh]

sounds like a great trip. I'd love to get in there some time.

[DaveLeo]

Beautiful trip man!

 

Thanks for taking so many photos.

[Kyle_Flick]

You timed it well for partial snow coverage up that gully to access the South Face. Later in the summer last year that gully looked down right inhospitable. The SW Face made for a more tame climb. The summit ridge exposure in a remote area makes the lengthy approach worth it.

[johndavidjr]

One of best trip reports in bit of a while here!

Sperry was incredible.

 

I hope to study wonderful photos repeatedly.

 

Only downside is quote "some of the most solid, aesthetic rock in the range."

 

Sounds like something straight from least favorite of the lesser Cascade guidebook writers.

...He must post here rarely....under what name I don't know.

 

[wbk]

nice work tom. i remember overhearing you talk about your planned trip out to gunsight a few weeks ago at index-nice work on making it happen despite a relatively shitty start to summer!

 

peace

[goatboy]

Outstanding (and enthusiastic/optimistic) given the weather forecast! Way to make a go of it. Endurance pays off.

 

 

[cbcbd]

Very cool stuff you two!

The rock on Gunsight looks stellar and the Asa logs are just amazing history - thanks for sharing!

 

[genepires]

damn cool. way to make the most of the small break in weather and go big at the same time.

[Rafael_H]

A great trip and a nice TR, really enjoyed it. Good job guys, thanks for the stoke!

[olyclimber]

Wow. Very cool report, way to persevere to tag the summit. Thanks for posting.

 

Amazing that little piece of paper has lasted up there, legible for over 100 years.

[JasonG]

As others have said, nice work! I had an approach question:

 

Did you cross Agnes Creek a little farther north than what Beckey describes? I know you have been in there several times, so I was wondering if the line you drew on the map was (in your opinion) the best way . . .Thanks for any info!!

 

Cheers,

 

Jason

[Tom_Sjolseth]

J,

The route highlighted in this TR is the way to go in my opinion. We hit maybe 400' of brush. Follow the streambed on its left side until you gain a grassy rib. Of the three times I've been in there, this was the sweet spot.

 

PS.. the route penciled in above is approximate. Stay left (within earshot) of the prominent streambed coming off the cliffs directly below the summit of ASA.

[JasonG]

Awesome, thanks! I have a date with that part of the cascades, but it will have to wait till next summer when I don't have a newborn in the house. . . your beta is much appreciated.

 

JG