Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Toast

Practice makes perfect

Recommended Posts

Here's an idea...

 

Any interest out there in running a couple of indoor mini-clinics on complex anchor systems, self rescue and all the stuff a good newbie should have down cold before venturing out to lead?

 

Like some of you, I'm new to rock climbing, but I'd like to learn to lead. Recent threads have pointed out that a new climber has no business being on the sharp end of a rope without acceptance of the risk, good judgment and solid technical skills.

 

I've been reading and re-reading Long's Climbing Anchors as well as all the print material I can get my hands on. On occasion I'll get up the gumption to rig table legs and chairs into multi directional or equalized anchors and practice emergency tie off [Roll Eyes] This is all good, but practicing solo lacks some of the scenarios like dealing with rope management and swapping leads on a hanging belay. Besides it'd be handy to have a few eyes scrutinizing the systems and get some collaborative input [rockband]

 

I'm not saying I know how to do all this, but I want to make sure I figure it out... and I'd like to make sure you do too [Wink]

 

Any interest out there... Leejams, SK, TLG, others?

 

[ 11-15-2002, 01:31 PM: Message edited by: Toast ]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

toast, it sounds like you've already done more indoor mini-clinic-ing than i could imagine. i've read long's book and surveyed his pics, but i've never had any real interest in setting up anchors amongst pieces of my furniture. an outdoor hands-on clinic with more opportunity for realistic set-ups (and more so, practicing self-rescue stuff) would be much more appealing ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by Lambone:

VW is currently running a series of clinics on lots of different stuff. check it out.

fyi: $5/clinic at the magnolia location; free in redmond.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by thelawgoddess:

toast, it sounds like you've already done more indoor mini-clinic-ing than i could imagine. i've read long's book and surveyed his pics, but i've never had any real interest in setting up anchors amongst pieces of my furniture. an outdoor hands-on clinic with more opportunity for realistic set-ups (and more so, practicing self-rescue stuff) would be much more appealing ...

Setting up anchors in your furniture is a great skill which can be applied both to whiling away tentbound days in the mountains, and bedroom antics involving ropes [Eek!][Wink]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would be up for such an anchor session... NOT TLG in her room [Razz] Have set up many top rope anchores with runners but want to learn to use JK's super cord stuff. And I would like to practice making anchors with trad gear if we could come up with a way to do it... inside out side.. where ever. just let me know where and when And I will try to work out being there. [big Grin] Who wants to instruct????? [Wink][Razz]

 

DRU? TEX? ANYONE??? I can say for a fact that GegW makes beautiful anchors [big Grin] maybe he would help out all of us [big Grin]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Make sure someone shows you how to use a cordelette. They are the most versatile item you can carry. Cordelette = 5m (16.5 ft) of 7mm cord = rap slings or prussic or anchor or??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I could be tempted to instruct with some type of compensation other than $ ie. [big Drink] , perhaps we could do it before pub club sometime.

 

The biggest question is where?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by Muffy The Wanker Sprayer:

I would be up for such an anchor session... NOT TLG in her room
[Razz]
Have set up many top rope anchores with runners but want to learn to use JK's super cord stuff. And I would like to practice making anchors with trad gear if we could come up with a way to do it... inside out side.. where ever. just let me know where and when And I will try to work out being there.
[big Grin]
Who wants to instruct?????
[Wink][Razz]

 

DRU? TEX? ANYONE??? I can say for a fact that GegW makes beautiful anchors
[big Grin]
maybe he would help out all of us
[big Grin]

Sling a hot tub? Timm@y??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by Lambone:

I could be tempted to instruct with some type of compensation other than $ ie.
[big Drink]
, perhaps we could do it before pub club sometime.

 

The biggest question is where?

I can open up my place in Fremont, and I'm happy to pitch in on beer and pizza. Now the question is when?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by Toast:

quote:

Originally posted by Lambone:

I could be tempted to instruct with some type of compensation other than $ ie.
[big Drink]
, perhaps we could do it before pub club sometime.

 

The biggest question is where?

I can open up my place in Fremont, and I'm happy to pitch in on beer and pizza. Now the question is when?

I think Lambone was thinking about where to set gear anchors. Someone was talking about the UW Rock having some parallel-sided cracks; several options for all-cam anchors. However, I try and reserve my cams for leading.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would be up for that as well. Seems like real rock would work the best. How bout exit 38 this weekend if it is dry? If not Fremont works for me. Someone told me once they have trolls there though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by Muffy The Wanker Sprayer:

Have set up many top rope anchores with runners but want to learn to use JK's super cord stuff.

Tell JK to stop using chord when there are 2 fat bolts and suffient length chains. Fucker climbs well though! [big Drink]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i don't think the troll is very aid-able.

 

and anyway ... it's going to be fucking wet fucking eveywhere this fucking weekend. (not that i'm fucking letting that affect my fucking mood.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

Tell JK to stop using chord when there are 2 fat bolts and suffient length chains. Fucker climbs well though!
[big Drink]

Hey what's wrong with cord on bolts?? I like to thread the chains and use one draw to keep the rope off the chains. Does that make sense?? This for TopRopes of course.

 

Finally - Page Top. 1/116 =<1% [big Grin]

 

[ 11-07-2002, 03:09 PM: Message edited by: snoboy ]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by thelawgoddess:

and anyway ... it's going to be fucking wet fucking eveywhere this fucking weekend. (not that i'm fucking letting that affect my fucking mood.)

No shit?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

I'm all about speed and efficiency. Clip the shit and go. That's all.

Good call

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys, I'm into it...but I gotta go to portland with the wife this weekend.

 

Maybe we could just go up to Little Si or something one day. There are some good spots to set up anchors by the British Isle's I think. We could do it some rainy weekend day.

 

We could all practice setting up anchors and toss around ideas...let m know what you think.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Unless something changes I'll be over at Vantage this weekend Sunday-Monday with a friend of mine who's getting ready to start leading trad (and some others). I'd be willing to go over some anchors and stuff after we're done climbing Sunday night if you're in the neighborhood.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×