sexual_chocolate Posted October 21, 2002 Posted October 21, 2002 For $150 a day, you better be AMGA certified or something. I'll teach ya for $125. I've been climbing for 15 years, have climbed 5.12 trad, 5.14 sport, and V10 boulder. If you're interested. PM me. MTWS: The militia is out to get me. Gotta lay low. Quote
Chepe Posted October 21, 2002 Posted October 21, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: Drop acid and free solo. THAT'S MY LINE ASSHOE!!! Quote
minx Posted October 22, 2002 Posted October 22, 2002 I haven't climbed much in this area. It's great to get some name/locations of good routes. Where the easiest and closest trad routes to Tacoma/Seattle? I'm just getting back to it after taking several eons off. Quote
rbw1966 Posted October 22, 2002 Posted October 22, 2002 Aid climb. Nothing like a good old fashioned bounce test to let you know if your gear is placed well. Beacon has some killer beginner routes. I've done some solo aid at Broughtons as well. Quote
Lambone Posted October 22, 2002 Posted October 22, 2002 I agree that aid climbing is the best way to really learn how to place protection well, especialy difficult placements. But I don't think that it is the best way to learn how to Trad Climb on free routes. Mostly because you will will want to place a piece every 5ft and you will want to pull on the gear all the time! At least thats what happenss to me after every long aid climb I do... Quote
mattp Posted October 22, 2002 Posted October 22, 2002 I agree with Lambone that the best way to learn to trad climb is to climb trad routes. But the initial post asked about learning to place gear. Aid climbing involves a lot of time spent placing gear and testing it, for sure. But leading a lot of trad climbs will offer opportunities to learn to hang from one hand while fiddling with gear and worrying about a fall and maybe not knowing where the route is going to go next. Quote
Lambone Posted October 22, 2002 Posted October 22, 2002 Then again, most beggining trad climbers won't have a large enough rack for aid climbing, or all the other accesories... Quote
COL._Von_Spanker Posted October 22, 2002 Posted October 22, 2002 If you watch the beginning of the movie K2 and Vertical Limit you should get a pretty good idea of how to trad climb. Quote
gym_rat Posted October 22, 2002 Posted October 22, 2002 Or rather, how NOT to trad climb. Great movies, actually, you have good taste. Oh, and what about Cliffhanger? Damn, I wish I was as good as Stallone. Well, back to the gym for some weight training. Quote
Lambone Posted October 22, 2002 Posted October 22, 2002 Get John Longs "Anchors" and read it, best $ you'll ever spend. Quote
b-rock Posted October 22, 2002 Posted October 22, 2002 I'll add my support for John Long's Climbing Anchors. Can anyone recomend a text for learning aid beyond that of FOTH? Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted October 23, 2002 Posted October 23, 2002 john long's big wall book is all you need to know...pretty cool pictures (too bad they are black and white). Quote
iain Posted October 23, 2002 Posted October 23, 2002 quote: Originally posted by b-rock: I'll add my support for John Long's Climbing Anchors. Can anyone recomend a text for learning aid beyond that of FOTH? John Long's MORE Climbing Anchors? Quote
Lambone Posted October 23, 2002 Posted October 23, 2002 quote: Originally posted by b-rock: I'll add my support for John Long's Climbing Anchors. Can anyone recomend a text for learning aid beyond that of FOTH? John Long also wrote a book with Minnendorf called "Big Walls." It takes you through the basics, but that's all. Mike Corbet also wrote a book, I believe called "Aid Climbing" I didn't like that one as much. Both books are ok, but they don't go into some of the newer equipment and time saving techniques. Then there is also Chongo's elusive 1000 page wall climber's bible. I don't know the title, probably something about Big Wall Metaphysics or something...It costs $80, but I have actualy heard that it is worth it. I think it's distributed out of the Camp 4 parking lot, or the Lodge cafeteria. Or you can persuade me to teach you... Quote
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