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Learning trad


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I agree that aid climbing is the best way to really learn how to place protection well, especialy difficult placements.


But I don't think that it is the best way to learn how to Trad Climb on free routes. Mostly because you will will want to place a piece every 5ft and you will want to pull on the gear all the time! [geek] At least thats what happenss to me after every long aid climb I do... [laf][big Drink]

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I agree with Lambone that the best way to learn to trad climb is to climb trad routes. But the initial post asked about learning to place gear. Aid climbing involves a lot of time spent placing gear and testing it, for sure. But leading a lot of trad climbs will offer opportunities to learn to hang from one hand while fiddling with gear and worrying about a fall and maybe not knowing where the route is going to go next.

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Originally posted by b-rock:

I'll add my support for John Long's Climbing Anchors.


Can anyone recomend a text for learning aid beyond that of FOTH?

John Long also wrote a book with Minnendorf called "Big Walls." It takes you through the basics, but that's all. Mike Corbet also wrote a book, I believe called "Aid Climbing" I didn't like that one as much. Both books are ok, but they don't go into some of the newer equipment and time saving techniques.


Then there is also Chongo's elusive 1000 page wall climber's bible. I don't know the title, probably something about Big Wall Metaphysics or something...It costs $80, but I have actualy heard that it is worth it.


I think it's distributed out of the Camp 4 parking lot, or the Lodge cafeteria.


Or you can persuade me to teach you...

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