we suck

[RuMR]

That's right...we gotta few, but we suck

[wayne]

We suck?

Check where you live.

Really though, We have a lot going for us here that competes within in our lifestyles. I consider myself in a completely different sport. One more closely linked with what our locale offers.

You are right that few here have the combination of time, $, drive, weather and crags to pull such feats.You want amazing sporto numbers? You move to Arco. Smith ,etc

[el jefe]

have you seen this one, rudy?

 

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=36962

 

old grampas pull down in eurotown. we're still arguing about whether it is ok to hangdog, place bolts on rappel, yada yada. meanwhile, euros are out pulling down.

 

we all need to just go climbing more.

[Kimmo]

"To train for his latest tough routes, Stevie Haston adopted the mantra “Eat Less, Train More, and Try Harder.” Haston has done a lot of hard climbs because he’s a training maniac, doing as many as 2,000 pull-ups, as well as push-ups and sit-ups during a typical training day. He also went on a strict diet, dropping his weight to 145 pounds by eating 700 calories a day, which he says, “It’s not healthy.” Haston added, “I've been stronger but can't pull on such small holds because of the extra muscle bulk. Muscles are heavy.”

 

combine with tall steep crags=hard climbing.

[el jefe]

700 kcal/day = a croissant with a cup of espresso for breakfast, 2 gauloise and a small glass of red wine for dinner.

 

it takes dedication.

[Rad]

I've never understood the whole idea that we can somehow claim credit for the actions and results of others (e/g/ we suck/rock because top american sport climbers suck/rock). Does the average spaniard get credit for the rippin spanish sportos? Do we get some credit for Chris Sharma? What if one of our team (Lynn Hill) moves to their side of the pond? Do we no longer get to feel a sense of pride in her accomplishments? Sounds silly to me. I admire many people for the things they do, regardless of whether I consider them part of my team or not. Perhaps this is why I'm not an avid sports fan - I'd rather be out doing it.

 

Take pride in your own achievements. Push your own limits. Model those whom you admire, but don't pretend to take credit for their successes or failures unless you played some direct role in making them happen.

 

Veni, Vidi, Ascendi.

[kevbone]

Jim Oypdyke. He will be 66 in a couple of months. Climbs EVERY weekend at Beacon. And I mean EVERY weekend. Still lead climbs. Has a memory like a hawk....smokes a pack a day and drinks like a fish.....did I mention he still lead climbs and climbs 2 days a week?

 

He is my hero! And a good friend.

 

 

[wayne]

I hope he doesnt find out you are outing him on the Big Brothernets

[JosephH]

I wouldn't worry, he is never without his tinfoil hat.

[cascadesdj]

Yeah, and then there's me! 61 and cranking hard on 5.9 sport, even the occassional .10 and a rare .11a, as long as I've dialed it for weeks! W0W!

 

But at least I know something about grammar. "One less excuse" is flargrantly, blatantly, disgustingly bad grammar. It's fewer, not less. Less applies to bulk quantities, fewer to discrete units, as in "fewer cookies, less milk". So there, I do 5.13 grammar!

[el jefe]

Yeah, and then there's me! 61 and cranking hard on 5.9 sport, even the occassional .10 and a rare .11a, as long as I've dialed it for weeks! W0W!

 

But at least I know something about grammar. "One less excuse" is flargrantly, blatantly, disgustingly bad grammar. It's fewer, not less. Less applies to bulk quantities, fewer to discrete units, as in "fewer cookies, less milk". So there, I do 5.13 grammar!

 

another old guy with a "memory like a hawk"

[Hugh Conway]

So campaign for a Cascades where we can access the fucking mountains.

 

Or move to Europe. I like that option better, much better ass.

[Kimmo]

more from haston.

 

 

Training

 

 

“Train hard, rest, don’t eat. It’s a power to weight thing. In fact it’s a weight to powerful fingers thing. It’s not rocket science. Laurence went from F6a to F8a+. Any man or woman can climb F8a within a year in my opinion. All they have to do is everything in their power to do that and not get injured.”

 

 

rest of interview:

 

linky link

[Kimmo]

two more quotes, y entonces: buenas noches.

 

 

"With every grade higher you get, it becomes clearer that you are only limited by your desire to see if you can go further." --Dave MacLeod, blog Feb 09 2007

 

"There are no secrets to becoming strong. It's all about hard work. Beer and women will be the ruin of you." --Ben Moon, FreakClimbing.com, Nov 28 2004

 

[Pete_H]

That last one is probably the lamest quote ever.

[Pete_H]

Eating is awesome. Beer and women are even better.

 

[kevbone]

That last one is probably the lamest quote ever.

 

 

Truth hurts.

[Hugh Conway]

That last one is probably the lamest quote ever.

 

 

Truth hurts.

 

so does jerking off errr bouldo sportering

[Pilchuck71]

That last one is probably the lamest quote ever.

 

 

Truth hurts.

 

so does jerking off errr bouldo sportering

 

uh....Hugh...I think you are doing it wrong.

[Sol]

I dig it

[montypiton]

I guess folks don't notice when Haston admits "it's NOT HEALTHY" (emphasis mine). I've got climbing partners in their seventies leading in the 5.10 range, and a couple in their sixties pulling 5.11/12. And how about that Shipman!?!? Guy's broken his neck THREE TIMES, yet at age 62 leads 5.10 trad and WI5! Improvements in technique and equipment allowed Fritz Weissner and Norman Clyde to climb rock at a similar standard in their nineties as they climbed in their thirties! "Jackrabbit" Johanssen broke his leg six weeks before his hundredth birthday yet celebrated that birthday by winning a nordic ski race. Personally, I prefer healthy...

[cascadesdj]

Yeah, and then there's me! 61 and cranking hard on 5.9 sport, even the occassional .10 and a rare .11a, as long as I've dialed it for weeks! W0W!

 

But at least I know something about grammar. "One less excuse" is flargrantly, blatantly, disgustingly bad grammar. It's fewer, not less. Less applies to bulk quantities, fewer to discrete units, as in "fewer cookies, less milk". So there, I do 5.13 grammar!

 

another old guy with a "memory like a hawk"

Uh, I can't remember if hawks have a good memory.

[JosephH]

I have no doubt that climbing hard is just a matter of focus and lifestyle adjustment - climbing consistently above 5.11 requires some prioritization and commitment at any age - it just becomes more important once you're old.

[lancegranite]

Strange, it's so different other places.

Visiting my company last month I hung out with the bosses at Red Rocks while the 50 year old book keeper sent 12c and my 48 year old boss sent 12b. This was a couple weeks after they climbed Iron Hawk to Prodigal Son on El cap.

You might recognize my boss on the cover of the new Red Rocks guidebook written by the trainer at my company, a 47 year old 5.12+ trad/ sport climber.

The boss's 47 year old wife is looking for a good 13b project when they visit next summer.

The 52 year old accountant sent 14a a couple summers ago at Rifle.

All these guys have familys, careers and lives.

 

You look around here and guys are bitching about bolts and sport climbing like it's still 1984.

.

 

[John Frieh]

Strange, it's so different other places.

Visiting my company last month I hung out with the bosses at Red Rocks while the 50 year old book keeper sent 12c and my 48 year old boss sent 12b. This was a couple weeks after they climbed Iron Hawk to Prodigal Son on El cap.

You might recognize my boss on the cover of the new Red Rocks guidebook written by the trainer at my company, a 47 year old 5.12+ trad/ sport climber.

The boss's 47 year old wife is looking for a good 13b project when they visit next summer.

The 52 year old accountant sent 14a a couple summers ago at Rifle.

All these guys have familys, careers and lives.

 

You look around here and guys are bitching about bolts and sport climbing like it's still 1984.

.

 

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