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Plaidman

[TR] Yosemite Wide Tour - A Bust - Short Version - 10/8/2009

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Trip: Yosemite Wide Tour - A Bust - Short Version -

 

Date: 10/8/2009

 

Trip Report:

Well I can only report that the wide tour did not happen.

I am working on a detail account of the facts.

Here is a short version of the epic.

 

 

Got lots of pics. Will Post soon.

 

I will never spray again about the big things I am going to do.

I got seriously smoked by the Big Valley.

 

Plaidman

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Took wide gear. Never used it.

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I thought that said "Yos Wide Tour - A Short Bus"

 

Anyhow, Snake Dike is a worthy objective on its own. I once flew down there specifically to climb it. Looking up at the start from Camp 4 it was plain to see without a team of Sherpas I would have never even made it the base.

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Maggie and I climbed snake dike in 2005. We hiked in the evening before and camped in little yosemite. Did the climb the next day then hiked out same day. We were both wasted. Cool climb.

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don't worry. most people who climb in the valley have humbling experiences at one point or another. mine was stumbling down the spires gully in the dark with no headlamp after a taxing climb on NE buttress of higher

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Pre-spray is a slippery snake that frequently bites oneself, but your pre-trip thread was a ton of fun with a bunch of good photos and discussion of routes, so don't be feeling ashamed of it. :wave:

 

So what was the fun you had at the base of El Cap instead of getting worked by Sachercracker? Left side of La Cosita? Right side of Little John? There's great stuff there you can just relax and enjoy terror-free.

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good to see some familar faces in camp 4. The day after I saw you I woke up and found out that a bear violated my car. Apparently bears like the pig...hope you guys had fun down there. I am headed back again thursday. I am going to see how many weekend warrior days I can get in a row.

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That was funny shit when the phone rang at Jim;s that night and he said it was probably you before he picked up... I couldn't stop laughing :lmao: laughed so hard it shook my buzz

Edited by LostCamKenny

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good to see some familar faces in camp 4. The day after I saw you I woke up and found out that a bear violated my car. Apparently bears like the pig...hope you guys had fun down there. I am headed back again thursday. I am going to see how many weekend warrior days I can get in a row.

 

what happend on astroman?!?!

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"the less a man makes declarative statements, the less apt he is to look foolish in hindsight"

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good to see some familar faces in camp 4. The day after I saw you I woke up and found out that a bear violated my car. Apparently bears like the pig...hope you guys had fun down there. I am headed back again thursday. I am going to see how many weekend warrior days I can get in a row.

 

what happend on astroman?!?!

 

we did the rostrum instead...figured I shouldn't get in over my head on my first day in the valley. The route had some super classic crack pitchs. Going back this weekend and every weekend I can until.... come on down when you are done with work so we can get high on the wall.

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No place like the valley to tell you how it is. Always humbling down there.

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I was once told by someone who would know that, "it doesn't matter who you are, EVERYONE gets schooled hard in the Valley at some point or another."

 

I've certainly gotten a bit of mine.

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good to see some familar faces in camp 4. The day after I saw you I woke up and found out that a bear violated my car. Apparently bears like the pig...hope you guys had fun down there. I am headed back again thursday. I am going to see how many weekend warrior days I can get in a row.

 

what happend on astroman?!?!

 

we did the rostrum instead...figured I shouldn't get in over my head on my first day in the valley. The route had some super classic crack pitchs. Going back this weekend and every weekend I can until.... come on down when you are done with work so we can get high on the wall.

 

that aint that much of a step down! nice job dude! will keep you posted hopefully we can be on some steep wall soon!

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I will never spray again about the big things I am going to do.

I got seriously smoked by the Big Valley.

 

Plaidman

 

Nah, thats OK dude. Just spend more time down there. 4 days, man, thats hardly time to get warmed up and figure out where you go buy the pizza! BTW, on the video - "Thats the way we roll baby!"

LOL!

 

Pine Line is a sweet little 5.7 climb that you could have "onsighted" right at the Nose start when you were passing on the Sacherer Cracker, Moby Dick and Ahab. :tup: Recommended for next time. I'd never done it until recently, I think the start of the Nose P1 is like 5.10D, don't know why I'd ever climb that instead of Pine Line but I guess I did. In fact, the first 4 pitches of the Nose is some sweet assed stuff too, as long as you're moving fast and not blocking some of the dudes like Bryan who barely slow down to clip gear as they do the Nose in a day.

____________________________________________________

 

Bryan, sweet stuff! They had that route closed earlier for most of the year for the nesting Falcons, so I bet it was better grip and less slick chalked footholds than Astroman anyway! Short days, you guys must have been seriously cruising and kicking ass to get over and then up and off a North facing grade 5 in October! Brrrrrr!

 

Nice!

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Here are some photos.

 

10110918091.jpg

Carriage Return

1011091810.jpg

Carriage Return1011091809.jpgCarriage Return1010091828.jpgCarriage Return1010090907b.jpgCarriage Return1010090928.jpgCarriage Return1010091827a.jpgCarriage ReturnCarriage Return

1010091729.jpgCarriage Return Carriage Return1011091811.jpg

Edited by Plaidman

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Way to get it done Scotty! Hey, the fact that you were out even thinking about climbing the day after Snake Dike is major kudos! The day after we climbed Snake Dike me and my partner went to Tuolumne to climb, and it took him 1/2 hour to hike a 5 minute approach, and then he just laid there and moaned. I felt just as bad so we did one pitch and called it a day.Snake_Dike_9-08_065.JPG

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Way to get it done Scotty! Hey, the fact that you were out even thinking about climbing the day after Snake Dike is major kudos! The day after we climbed Snake Dike me and my partner went to Tuolumne to climb, and it took him 1/2 hour to hike a 5 minute approach, and then he just laid there and moaned. I felt just as bad so we did one pitch and called it a day.Snake_Dike_9-08_065.JPG

 

The first time I climbed Snake Dike the day after I on sighted the first pitch of Nutcracker did the second pitch and rappped off.

So I was comparing bananas to atom bombs.

This time after a 3 hour nap we hiked up to the Schacker Cracker and wanted to throw up. It was good to get up and get the lactic acid out of our muscles before we went into that sleep of the dead.

 

Plaidman

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Look, so what if Potter and O'Neill can link-up Half Dome's Regular Route, the South Face of Watkins, and the Nose in about the same amount of time. No doubt they could do the SE Corner in a sub-5 minute time - but, you made it up and back down alive, had an adventure, made the movie, and are ready for whatever comes next. And what the hell, you climbed Snake Dike! Can't beat that with a frigging stick no matter how you look at it.

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Look, so what if Potter and O'Neill can link-up Half Dome's Regular Route, the South Face of Watkins, and the Nose in about the same amount of time. No doubt they could do the SE Corner in a sub-5 minute time - but, you made it up and back down alive, had an adventure, made the movie, and are ready for whatever comes next. And what the hell, you climbed Snake Dike! Can't beat that with a frigging stick no matter how you look at it.

 

Wow. Thanks Joseph.

 

Plaidman

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[font:Arial]Mr Plaidman Sir,

 

Having climbed in The Trench for almost four decades, I would consider myself somewhat of an expert at getting spanked by the Yoswide. If you really want to be the spanker and not the spankee you should try spending several months there. Within a month or two, you’ll be the one flashing by the gumbies as you put in little or no gear.

 

There’s really no other way. Being a weekend warrior doesn’t cut it. Being a gym whipper doesn’t cut it. You can come out of a gym pulling down 5.13 plastic and get totally shut down on a Yosemite 5.10 crack. I’m speaking from experience (the shut-down part, not the 5.13 part). If you don’t take a chance, you’ll never know the feeling. You’ll feel the ebb and flow of weekend gumbies coming and going. You’ll learn where not to go on the weekend and avoid the crowds. You’ll feel the seasons change. Take the chance. Take the time. It’s something you’ll have with you for the rest of your life. [/font]

 

---

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[font:Arial]Mr Plaidman Sir,

 

Having climbed in The Trench for almost four decades, I would consider myself somewhat of an expert at getting spanked by the Yoswide. If you really want to be the spanker and not the spankee you should try spending several months there. Within a month or two, you’ll be the one flashing by the gumbies as you put in little or no gear.

 

There’s really no other way. Being a weekend warrior doesn’t cut it. Being a gym whipper doesn’t cut it. You can come out of a gym pulling down 5.13 plastic and get totally shut down on a Yosemite 5.10 crack. I’m speaking from experience (the shut-down part, not the 5.13 part). If you don’t take a chance, you’ll never know the feeling. You’ll feel the ebb and flow of weekend gumbies coming and going. You’ll learn where not to go on the weekend and avoid the crowds. You’ll feel the seasons change. Take the chance. Take the time. It’s something you’ll have with you for the rest of your life. [/font]

 

---

 

Thanks. My friend told me three weeks would be perfect. Enough time to get it done without getting burnt out. My wife and I are trying to figure out how to live between there and Indian Creek. The Valley is such a magical place. There were times I just stood and cried.

 

Plaidman

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