Statistics and Danger on Dragontail

[olyclimber]

You'll eventually figure it out.

[Fairweather]

You're kind of an asshole.

[olyclimber]

If you need me to spell it out, you basically said that the ANAM is a waste of paper and no one learns from what the folks at the AAJ put out there. I'm sure they appreciate your input.

 

Now relax and go back to spray where you belong.

[ivan]

i thought he was just saying he didn't read them anymore 'cuz they're depressing?

 

the value of such journals is probably mimimal at best, certainly after a long time of climbing - i learn far more from my own near-death accidents

[G-spotter]

Overheard in Canmore "Dude we're totally gonna be in ANAM!"

[Buckaroo]

the value of such journals is probably mimimal at best, certainly after a long time of climbing - i learn far more from my own near-death accidents

 

respectfully disagree. Hopefully you're not having as many near death accidents as in the ANAM. So learning from others mistakes is what it's about.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I stopped reading ANAM ten years ago. Same sad tales. Nobody learns from them. It seems no tale, however terrible, can overcome the self-assuredness of the mountain climber.

 

There are some stories like that (glissading with crampons). Other accounts are a good reminder of what not to do - which is nice to have (drill, and hope you catch yourself before you do something dumb).

 

The ones that I find depressing are the random incidents that you can do nothing to prevent against short of not going.

 

 

[Le Piston]

I assisted in a helicopter evacuation of an injured climber in Canada in 2007 and that incident wasn't in ANAM. I'm guessing a lot happens that doesn't get reported.

[Gary_Yngve]

I thought Otto and Max were climbing Colchuck?

 

you're probably correct, they just come up in a search for dragontail

 

They were on the Colchuck "Glacier", which is between the two peaks, but yes, I think their intended objective was Colchuck.

[ivan]

the value of such journals is probably mimimal at best, certainly after a long time of climbing - i learn far more from my own near-death accidents

 

respectfully disagree. Hopefully you're not having as many near death accidents as in the ANAM. So learning from others mistakes is what it's about.

i don't think folks like us who free solo get to humor themselves that we're playing it safe

[Choada_Boy]

My favorite ANAM accident cause is "Bad Luck". Pretty much says it all: Shit's dangerous. Got a problem with that? Stay home.

[Pete_H]

They had a great accident cause stating "don't stand under falling ice," or something to that effect. Brilliant.

[dan_e]

It's one of the more accessible large alpine peaks and it's a pretty serious mountain, like others have said even the easier routes have objective danger hazards, etc.

 

I spent an unplanned night there last summer on Serpentine due to route finding difficulty and ultimately weather. We were there the day after that woman died from the rappelling accident on The Fin/Backbone.

 

My partner and I also tried Triple Couloirs this past Spring (twice). The route was never in good shape and many (including us) bailed from different locations on the route. There was no ice and the snow was junk in many places. I took a 15' fall onto my back while trying to get around what we aptly named "The over-hanging, unconsolidated snow bulge chimney variation". This is a section not to far from where the route cuts left up on the nice ice bulge (this section was 100% ice free both times we were there).

Edited September 18, 2009 by dan_e

[tvashtarkatena]

6 is not a statistically relevant sample.

 

Ahem, excuse me while I freshen up my Cote du Rhone.

 

Unlike many other peaks mentioned, Dragontail has late and early season access for the hordes from the West.

[Rad]

...the hordes from the West.

 

There's a route at Vantage called MF206ers