Frenchy Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 he said playing with his nutz... You are sooooo playing with my nutz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 I'm just learning to lead, but I like nuts the best. The cams I have (Technical Friends) have a tendency to walk a lot, and then get stuck. Or maybe I just suck with cams. Anyway, nuts are great, I should get doubles in the middle sizes. Nuts are great, hexes are cool, tricams are mostly a novelty (except rarely when you really need them, especially pinky), and cams are a pain but necessary. At least in my experience. -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafe1234 Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 Oh shit I thought it said the perfect crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 I'm just learning to lead, but I like nuts the best. The cams I have (Technical Friends) have a tendency to walk a lot, and then get stuck. Or maybe I just suck with cams. Anyway, nuts are great, I should get doubles in the middle sizes. Nuts are great, hexes are cool, tricams are mostly a novelty (except rarely when you really need them, especially pinky), and cams are a pain but necessary. At least in my experience. -Mark Welcome to the dark side! You'll find that with cam placements, often, a slight pocket, constriction or nubbin can be found within seconds and within inches of your placement if you look for it. Larger cams tend to walk more than smaller for me, and slinging a marginal cam placement is always a good idea as well. You'll find that when you get into hard fingercracks, the best and only finger lock is often the best nut placement as well, and you can sit and fiddle to get your fingers out of the perfect lock so you can slot a nut in the constriction while you pump out, or you can instantly plug and go a perfect green or yellow alien small mastercam right under or above the neck down spot where your fingers and your bodyweight are residing. Thats when one really starts loving cams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 Hmmm, tricams are so twentieth century. Haven't carried them since then as they're pretty much pointless on basalt and sandstone which is what I enjoy. But they do have there place on granite which, truth be told, I don't care all that much for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 granite which, truth be told, I don't care all that much for. Blasphemy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 granite which, truth be told, I don't care all that much for. Blasphemy! Well, the bottom line for me is that I find the physical movement over granite to be alternately dreadfully boring and / or painful. Eastern and Midwestern andstone tends to lend itself to far more creative movement. NW basalt is fairly entertaining, but for the most part also entails a fairly bounded set of physical movements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 You'll find that with cam placements, often, a slight pocket, constriction or nubbin can be found within seconds and within inches of your placement if you look for it. Larger cams tend to walk more than smaller for me, and slinging a marginal cam placement is always a good idea as well. You'll find that when you get into hard fingercracks, the best and only finger lock is often the best nut placement as well, and you can sit and fiddle to get your fingers out of the perfect lock so you can slot a nut in the constriction while you pump out, or you can instantly plug and go a perfect green or yellow alien small mastercam right under or above the neck down spot where your fingers and your bodyweight are residing. Thats when one really starts loving cams. That's funny, for hard finger cracks, I usually end up going for small nuts. From a good stance I'll place them in the next pod that I'll be using for a finger lock, and be sure to size them down a bit so they seat in the constriction below where my fingers will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 For granite, instead of doubles of the HB/DMM Offset Alloys I'd use one set of them and one set of symmetrical/straight-sided nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 Well, the bottom line for me is that I find the physical movement over granite to be alternately dreadfully boring and / or painful. Eastern and Midwestern andstone tends to lend itself to far more creative movement. NW basalt is fairly entertaining, but for the most part also entails a fairly bounded set of physical movements. it's your shoes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 There's no place like home. There's no place like home... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 If I could tap my heels three times and turn the cascades into sandstone I'd do it in a heartbeat. C'est la vie... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 if i could do the same and turn this whole thread into a conversation about elizabeth hurley i would Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 One set Camalots to #4 (skip the #3.5)(add the #5 if you want to climb chimney's) (#3 and #4 bigbros, again only for chimney's) One full set Metoleus TCU's One full set DMM wallnuts (the best) 30-40 Wild Country Helium Beaners (wired keylocks) (nothing else comes close) 15 to 20 spectra draws 5 or so spectra shoulder slings 2 or so double slings. 1 tech cord cordalette 1 Petzl Reverso 3 (nothing else comes close) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchy Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 minimal tats. minimal hips. minimal make up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 minimal tats. minimal hips. minimal make up. you forgot "male" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 (edited) I mostly agree with Layton, though I don't like doubling up unless I know I need it for a particular route, that is where you partner comes in handy. Here's my opinion for as long sustained cascasdes climb that you need an O/W piece for. Nuts: 1 set of black diamond stoppers #3-#10 and extra #5,6,7,8 1 set of DMM aluminum offsets up to a #4 sized BD nut I wouldn't double up on the 5, 6, 7, and 8, most of the time I always have left over nuts at the end of the pitch. Also if you use one size and you need the same size a little further up you can usually place a smaller nut sideways to fit the crack. Also I tend not to like off-sets too much, too me they belong in the speciality section. 2 Sets: 0.5-2 camalot 1 set: 3 and 4 camalot (i rarely bring anything bigger than a #3 unless the topo call for it or it's an F.A.) 1 #7 wild country flexible friend I agree though no doubles and I like camalots all the way for the larger sizes. Though the larger sizes are heavier than others out there. 2 sets: blue and yellow Metolius Master Cam 1 each: #0 (sometimes 2 of these), and Orange Mastaer Cam For smaller size cams I like Metolius or Wild Country. Though those new ultra small Wildcountry's I would expect to use as psychological gear. Each cam on a Black Diamond Oz carabiner. Doulbe up cams for easier climbs. Even on easier climbs I like racking cams individually and having 2 foot slings shouldered with a single biner. Few draws on the rack as well. Specialty Pieces: Occasionally a brown, red, and pink Tri Cam #3.5 camalot. No longer made, but very useful. #6 BD camalot #00 metolius master cam A few random knifeblade/bugaboo and Angle pitons Metolius 4 cam that is the size between a #1 and #2 camalot for the rare 1.5" splitter. IMO, C3's don't hold their placements nearly as well as Master Cams and Aliens are no longer to be trusted. The #7 friend is lighter and less wobbly than the #6 BD camalot. Wild Country Zeros are too chincy except for the #1-3 but those are too small for anything but hard aid. Metolius Mastercams effectively replaced the TCU. The new DMM cams may be a good Camalot replacement, but hard to say yet. Hope that helps Skip the tri cams unless you know you will be on pocketed routes. I like the #3.5 camalot useful I like the #6 camalot The 00 tcu is normal part of my rack pins useful in the winter or new routing though you need a hammer. I only bring them in the winter. Definitely don't get Aliens unless you got a death wish or things really change at CCH. I actually always thought they were too flimsy to my liking even before all of the mishaps and have never wanted to own or use one. It really annoys me when my partner has them on their rack that I am using. Oh yeah other speciality items: I like lowe balls, but I am not sure if you can get them anymore. A sceamer or two, but I rarely ever use them anymore. I like the Camp Nano biners one of the lightest you can get. Metolius is making one that looks cool too with higher closed rating. Edited August 25, 2009 by ken4ord Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froodish Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 I really like the way tricams place, even at places like Beacon. I use them a lot in opposition at anchors too. Curiously, I think I place the pinky the least - #2 is prob. my fav. I've got doubles to #3 and usually rack a single set. For big cams (>4), I like the WC better than Camalots. They are wider and more stable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 The perfect rack is the one in the Prana top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 TAPE A wack load of tape, I never knew you needed it but after seeing all the American climbers in Squamish this year it was obvious, everyone always has massive tape gloves!!!! I dont know why but thats just what you do, even if you may only do one jam, you must wear tape gloves!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Allow me to be the first... TAPE IS AID!!!1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 So who's going to break the news to these guys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 if i could do the same and turn this whole thread into a conversation about elizabeth hurley i would I like ivans idea... thats the perfect rack! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 No I agree you need tape, you can see in that picture you posted that you must tape for 5.12 finger tip cracks. Hell even though you climb 5.12 you may need it for some 4th class approaching. Thats the thing you must have tape gloves no matter what!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Taping your rack is aid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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