Crag routes similar to Gendarme on Stuart NR

[shannonpahl]

Does anyone know of crag routes / pitches that are similar to the gendarme pitches on Stuart?

 

For instance, Aries P2 is a left facing corner but its thin fingers whereas that section on the gendarme is much wider. What about the offwidth section? It could be very useful to get in a few crag pitches that are similar to the gendarme pitches.

Edited August 4, 2009 by shannonpahl

[TrogdortheBurninator]

I wouldn't sweat it too much. The first gendarme pitch is fairly easy for the grade. It is an excellent pitch, but I don't recall ever climbing anything particularly similar. It is more or less a series of jammable or underclingable roofs separated by excellent rests. The 2nd pitch is typical 5.9 OW, but only hard for a short distance. If you are comfortable on any of the classic 9s around (godzilla, princely, inca roads, etc), I wouldn't expect any trouble at all.

[Rad]

Yep. The Gendarme is not as fearsome as some would have you believe. BOTH pitches are short, with good rests between moves.

 

If you can do Godzilla and Toxic Shock you'll have no trouble with the lieback moves of Gend p1. If you can do GM you'll sail up Gend p2 (actually, I thought parts of GM were a good bit harder than the gendarme, though rated the same).

 

Go get it! (and write a TR)

[John Frieh]

Mt Stuart is cragging :laf:

[Pete_H]

Damn dood you are Sooooo hardcore!

[Reid]

I think p2 of Rattletale at Index is similar to p1 of the gendarme but much more strenuous. 10b as opposed to a slightly soft .9.

 

I agree that the GM route is probably a good indicator.

[shannonpahl]

i'm curious about why GM could be representative of gend P2 since GM does not have any offwidth (as far as I can remember). It may be a little like P1 (left facing corner'ish at the lower section)

[RuMR]

are you thinking of GM to heart of the country as opposed to GM proper?

[Peter_Puget]

Mt Stuart is cragging

 

at least the good parts!

[catbirdseat]

i'm curious about why GM could be representative of gend P2 since GM does not have any offwidth (as far as I can remember). It may be a little like P1 (left facing corner'ish at the lower section)

Shannon, if you are tall or have big hands (and you have both) you can jam past the short wide section, or actually fist jam it. You'll cruise through it.

[Rad]

Well, I thought of GM for general crack challenges and difficulty.

 

Warning: unsolicited beta/spoiler alert:

 

GM P1 off the ledge has a cool committing undercling and then when it gets wide there is a hidden crack to hold (yummy). Solid crack and jams to the belay. GM P2 has a squeeze/OW that is awkward but short. But I was really thinking of GM P3. It starts with committing moves past a crack and then to a dihedral with a large crack in back. That crack reminded me of the Gendarme p2: fist or a bit larger and strenuous. Either go straight in or, as I did, work some liebacking in there. A few easy lieback moves got me past the OW crux on the gendarme. Others may find other solutions. Basically, if you have some crack skills and the instincts about when to abandon one approach and switch to another (e.g. lieback vs jam) then you'll be totally fine. Worst case is you hang on solid gear and french free it.

 

AND you should do the FULL NR because the second pitch of the lower N Ridge is the best pitch on the whole line IMHO.

 

Heart of the Country is fun, but it's straight-in hand jamming that isn't really like the gendarme.

 

[Off_White]

Mt Stuart is cragging

 

at least the good parts!

 

I'm guessing you mean the lowest skirts of the majestic peak, as in Icicle Creek?

[Crillz]

Well, I thought of GM for general crack challenges and difficulty.

 

Warning: unsolicited beta/spoiler alert:

 

GM P1 off the ledge has a cool committing undercling and then when it gets wide there is a hidden crack to hold (yummy). Solid crack and jams to the belay. GM P2 has a squeeze/OW that is awkward but short. But I was really thinking of GM P3. It starts with committing moves past a crack and then to a dihedral with a large crack in back. That crack reminded me of the Gendarme p2: fist or a bit larger and strenuous. Either go straight in or, as I did, work some liebacking in there. A few easy lieback moves got me past the OW crux on the gendarme. Others may find other solutions. Basically, if you have some crack skills and the instincts about when to abandon one approach and switch to another (e.g. lieback vs jam) then you'll be totally fine. Worst case is you hang on solid gear and french free it.

 

AND you should do the FULL NR because the second pitch of the lower N Ridge is the best pitch on the whole line IMHO.

 

Heart of the Country is fun, but it's straight-in hand jamming that isn't really like the gendarme.

 

What he said^^^^^

Also, I've only climbed the last pitch of GM a few times, but I think it is one of the harder 5.9s that I have climbed - it's short though.

[Kimmo]

i'd somewhat agree on p3 of GM; there are some similarities to gendarme, but i remember p3 being much harder. so in other words, go do p3 and if you get it, you won't have any problems on gendarme!

 

i also seem to remember something kinda similar by the great northern slab, above the corner crack (aries?). kinda awkward overhanging wide weird thingy rated 5.9 and really short, mebbe sorta like the hardest part of the gendarme, but it's been many years so i might be entirely wrong....

[Peter_Puget]

Mt Stuart is cragging

 

at least the good parts!

 

I'm guessing you mean the lowest skirts of the majestic peak, as in Icicle Creek?

 

 

Not a big Icicle fan....the approaches for the good routes are so freakin' long you might as well be on Stuart..certainly the CBR approach is easier and that's craggin' too.

 

 

Stuart has featured in my climbing lately. The latest rage is sandstone bouldering with wicked views of Stuart! The cooler in the car is never more than 100 steps away!

 

 

[Lisa_D]

I am 5'2" with small hands and made it up the Gendarme pitch just fine with fist jams. I may have put my whole arm in a few times, but it wasn't that bad. Granted, I followed that pitch - the exposure and dramatic position make it much more thrilling for the leader, who has to traverse out to the crack! We hauled packs on the pitch - recommended & worth the time.

[wimsey]

Does anyone know of crag routes / pitches that are similar to the gendarme pitches on Stuart?

 

It could be very useful to get in a few crag pitches that are similar to the gendarme pitches.

 

Um, how about lead a bunch of routes with a 15 pound backpack until that starts to feel comfortable. Or practice clawing (A0, french freeing) your way up some harder routes so you know how to get yourself through a tough spot.

 

Really, trying to rehearse 25 feet of climbing on a 2000ft alpine route with a longish approach/descent is missing the forest for the trees.

 

[Rad]

Really, trying to rehearse 25 feet of climbing on a 2000ft alpine route with a longish approach/descent is missing the forest for the trees.

 

Agreed. The best practice for NR is to get your simulclimbing dialed in so you can totally cruise the easy sections.

[Kimmo]

eh, not really if those 25 feet are the ones that intimidate the person. climbing the suggested pitches above could be good prep.

[shannonpahl]

Thanks for all your suggestions. I was initially confusing Princely with GM. I'm ok with toxic, I'll go try GM this week-end

[Frenchy]

The latest rage is sandstone bouldering with wicked views of Stuart!

 

FS Rd 9703?

 

[Peter_Puget]

Nope

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Renton?

[Peter_Puget]

Renton is granite not sandstone

[toproper]

peshastin?