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Reid

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Everything posted by Reid

  1. Ring Training?

    Commercial fishing supply stores will have plastic rings that are used in rigging nets. I got a pair at Seattle Marine and Fishing Supply (seamar.com) awhile ago. Strong and the biggest ones are a good size for gymnastic rings. Just add webbing
  2. Watch recomendations -GPS, Altimeter,

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Altimeter Read the Wikipedia page here if you haven't. I think you'll be misled far more often by GPS altitude than a pressure altitude. You've mentioned 1000 ft errors possible with a pressure altimeter, but I think that would be an extraordinary error to have. When using your navigation tools you would have to have a topo map as well. If you recalibrate the altimeter at the trailhead, passes, and summits you'll find accuracy typically within 100 ft.
  3. [TR] Argonaut Peak - NE Couloir 11/6/2011

    Neither did we. We climbed the route on Saturday also elected to bail after finishing the 5.6 mixed pitch. Another possibly useful piece of info for current conditions is we didn't think the East Couloir descent seemed viable in it's current condition. We down climbed the couloir for a few hundred feet and escaped on some ledges climbers left. This led us to a short broad ridge that met up with the Argonaut-Colchuck col. The deproach was like you described miserable. Ours was compounded by my altimeter watch crapping out and my buddy's GPS watch dying. We bushwacked in the dark by iphone compass...
  4. Gear slings?

    Typically I use my harness for rock climbing and alpine rock, but will use gear slings to accomidate partners, large racks, unusual pieces, efficiency. I'm considering trying to switch to slings more often since I find on harder rock pitches that trying to reach across my body to the opposite gear loop sucks. If I have a great fingerlock with my left hand and need that small cam on my left side, I either need to reach way across or change up my hands. Either option seems like a waste of energy. Reaching feels like I'm at risk of dropping that gear and sometimes upsets my balance enough that I get concerned about pitching off my stance. Anyone else suffer from this problem? Is the sling the way to solve this (among other benefits)? Or does something about my technique need work?
  5. What time is the class? Oh, look there. It's in the title.
  6. Team Stars And Stripes

    :lmao: "we don't need bikini models... we've got role models"
  7. Looks really nice guys. Brandon/Darryl, is that undercling on the "signature pitch" the one you were telling me about in Teiton?
  8. Climbed this over the weekend. Great route. The advice to stay left of the gully is indeed good advice. The moat crossing is no issue if the right spot is chosen. A dusting of snow on the N side of everthing added a real nice alpine flavor, but the next round of storms this weekend will probably do it in for the season. Go get some if you can!
  9. Found a pair of la sportiva rock shoes at the base of "Jazzy Document" @ Duty Dome in Leavenworth. PM me with more details (model, size, color) to get them returned.
  10. Might be a stupid skiing question, but....

    Muir is possible year round, but may or may not be good skiing mid-september with icy patches and sun cups. If you enjoyed the South Spur of Adams then I highly recommend the south chutes of Adams. Although I am not positive that this would be possible or worth it in late August.
  11. If I was to head to Squamish this Thursday through Sunday to do some climbing, including some Apron, Smoke Bluffs, and Murrin Park moderate classics, would it be a cluster considering the mountain festival is also over the same time frame? Would camping be hellacious (at the cheif and otherwise)? Would I be better off spending the four days somewhere else like Leavenworth or Smith?
  12. FS: Cams for Index Fund Raiser

    Does this mean I can write off climbing gear as a non-profit donation?
  13. DSLRs and Rainier

    Also I'm not sure I agree with your plastic bag idea. I don't have any direct experience to back me up here, but aren't you at risk of trapping warm moist air in there and then letting it get cold which would accumulate a lot of condensation?
  14. DSLRs and Rainier

    I found this to be pretty helpful: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/mountain-climbing.shtml
  15. Above GNS

    Does anyone else have a problem with the last 3 (?) bolts and anchor bolts on gorilla my dreams or am I just a pussy? Or are most people placing gear at that point? Made one attempt at it and backed off cause I saw rusty beer tabs above and I had no gear. Rapped it later and was pretty sketched at the anchor setup (not the one we rapped off of. Rapped off a tree, but we rapped past the bolts)
  16. Anyone built a Bachar Ladder?

    www.beastskills.com
  17. Anyone built a Bachar Ladder?

    http://www.beastskills.com
  18. Does anyone know if an individual can get a second gift from http://www.washingtonclimbers.org/IndexFund/gifts.htm? i.e. I've donated and gotten a T-shirt already, if I do another 300 can I get another T-shirt? I promise it's not selfish. I've got an idea parallel to this donation matching.
  19. Denali food suggestions

    Homemade GU: http://www.summitpost.org/article/239378/home-made-power-gels-energy-for-less.html I do 3 parts brown rice syrup, 1 part agave nectar and enough emergen-C that you're getting 1/4 to 1/2 pack with every ~200 calorie shot. I ate nothing solid on summit day, so another recommendation for some kind of energy gel. The only reason I kept eating my dinner stuff (pasta and the like) was that I had some precooked-no-refigeration-needed-until-opening bacon from Costco, cheese, and butter. I also brought along a mini spice kit. Small ziplocs with pepper, garlic salt, and cayanne pepper. I ate an entire bag of cheeze-it's in one sitting. My partner ate the other at the same time. Highly recommended. On the whole I worried entirely too much about nutrition and not enough about simply bringing delicious calories. Also I always bring too much food (on trips of any length). Try to keep it under control if you struggle with that. I wouldn't normally encourage anything but self-suffeciency, but Denali is an interesting place and you'll be able to bum food at any camp if it came down to it.
  20. rainier ski?

    I'll ski with ya, V. I'd rather do the Fuhrer Finger.
  21. We also used Aymara and actually felt somewhat cheated. It may have been our fault and language barriers though. When talking to an Aymara guy at Puenta del Inca trying to decided if it was worth getting a mule, we asked the price ($180) and if it was "round-trip". He spoke english quite well and answered our question with a yes. He either flat out lied or didn't understand "round-trip". When trying to arrange mules out of Plaza de Mulas we were told we needed to pay $90. Not having that much cash we were forced to carry a lot of weight out. Based on some questions I posed in English to other mule companies at Plaza de Mulas I think the phrase "round-trip" is not understood correctly. So I guess I'm not recommending against Aymara, but make sure you are clear about what you are paying for (this goes for Argentina in general). This wasn't the only case where we were asked for more money when we thought we paid for the whole deal. Also many people have said that all mule companies charge the same including the park service. It's not true. They vary by up to maybe $30 or $40 (one way), but they are quite similar.
  22. This is something of the accepted expedition standard MSR XGK http://www.rei.com/product/722001
  23. Hmm, I just did Acon over Christmas/New Year's and I can't say that I remember any guide service selling white gas. That said we also didn't attempt to buy any from them. We stopped at one of the gear shops in Mendoza. Yes they will give you the white gas in a pop bottle. Be careful with that. About a quarter of our food was contaminated when a bottle broke open in the mule bag. I've used nothing but whisperlites on Denali and Acon and had no complaints, but have not had any experience with a purpose built expedition stove. I think the jetboil would be a poor choice.
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