Lisa_D Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 While leading the first crack pitch on Outer Space this past Saturday, I was dive-bombed by a pair of falcons. Fortunately they didn't actually claw me. When I reached Library Ledge, the female falcon charged over and threatened me with outspread wings, sharp talons and beak. I was able to put in a gear anchor, and when the bird realized that I intended no harm she backed away. She has an egg on the ledge, and is really protective. I brought Jon up and we quickly climbed away. It was pretty spectacular to see such a wild and beautiful bird up close, but a little unnerving! I spoke with someone from the ranger station and she thought that the route will likely be closed until July 31. The ledge is small, and falcons typically lay up to 3 eggs per season. Climbing through their nesting area is not only distressing for the birds, but dangerous for parties on the route. Angry mama bird: But the good news is: the stream crossing is clear, and Snow Creek Wall is dry and ready to be climbed. Even the walk off is snow-free. - I guess this season people will have to explore Orbit, Mary Jane Dihedral, Hyperspace, and many of the other great routes! To add insult to injury, a final objective hazard was found in the Snow Creek Parking lot outhouse. Shit really hit the fan for some unlucky soul... I have to give photo credit to Jon Toner, as I didn't have the stomach to take this one myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 While leading the first crack pitch on Outer Space this past Saturday, I was dive-bombed by a pair of falcons. Fortunately they didn't actually claw me. When I reached Library Ledge, the female falcon charged over and threatened me with outspread wings, sharp talons and beak. I was able to put in a gear anchor, and when the bird realized that I intended no harm she backed away. She has an egg on the ledge, and is really protective. I brought my partner up and we quickly climbed away. It was pretty spectacular to see such a wild and beautiful bird up close, but a little unnerving! The route will likely be closed until July 31. The ledge is small, and falcons typically lay up to 3 eggs per season. Climbing through their nesting area is not only distressing for the birds, but dangerous for parties on the route. Angry mama bird: That's an amazing picture! Thanks for the heads up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Lisa - nice pic. There were three eggs as of Sunday. These chicks should be flying in the July 1-7st time frame and typically like to give them a week or two of flying before opening so a July 31st date wouldn't be at all unreasonable. An official closure probably hasn't been instituted - yet - but folks should now cease climbing Outer Space. Cooperating voluntarily will be way, way more productive relative to access issues across WA than continuing to climb the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Yes, by displaying some leadership and responsibility here we can ensure that climbing can continue on "off-nesting" season. And very cool pic! (not the toilet one, the bird defending its nest ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Good Peregrine pic. This should be pegged (or some other verb) with a clear title in he rock climbing forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Sick: Isn't that lower one called a "Mud Falcon"? That's what the brown sacks which use to come off El Cap were coined:-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Choada_Boy Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 My bad. Falcons scare me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lisa_D Posted April 20, 2009 Author Share Posted April 20, 2009 The fish/wildlife representative I spoke with (who is also a climber and has been all over Snow Creek Wall) couldn't yet tell me any specifics about how they'd go about protecting the birds. I expect we'll know more in a few days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Is there a sign at the trailhead kiosk RE: the nesting and voluntary closure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Probably not yet, but it would be a good idea for the weekend if someone lives over that way and could put one up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Val Zephyr Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Wow, Lisa, great photo of the Falcon! That must have been quite an exciting pitch. Jon, I believe that this is the second one of your trips to Leavenworth that ended with some poor soul's bathroom issues posted online. Hehe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtyleaf Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Snow Creek wall closure for outer space, iconoclast, edge of space, for sure, and possibly hyperspace. talked to the wildlife bio tech before they took off to investigate and they left a note confirming the above. Those are my favorite routes on the wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Choada_Boy Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Poor humans! Contrived danger limitations! Regardless, I think we should be proactive in spreading the word as best as possible to keep people off all the routes in the area until the end of July. There's plenty of other shit to climb. If you think otherwise, you're a dick head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Snow Creek wall closure for outer space, iconoclast, edge of space, for sure, and possibly hyperspace. talked to the wildlife bio tech before they took off to investigate and they left a note confirming the above. Those are my favorite routes on the wall. Sounds like they're open to a partial closure as opposed to shutting down the whole wall - that's means WDFW raptor biologists up in Region 2 are up for working with climbers on the closures which is way better than the alternatives. They may also be up for monitoring for when they chicks are flying reliably on their own for an open date as well - depends on resources, it may need to be hard date, but is probably worth asking about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Bridge creek wall may get some more activity this spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CollinWoods Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 (edited) Dang birds... Nice pics though. Edited April 22, 2009 by CollinWoods Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidk Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 I think it really is in everyone's best interest to avoid these routes and the nesting falcons. Along with all the obvious eco reasons, consider that a surprise dive-bombing falcon just might cause you to take the whipper of a lifetime. Hell, I decked on a hiking trail when I was double-teamed by a pair of angry, nesting NZ falcons. They mean business! And they might cause your pants to look like that toilet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 I talked with the rangers yesterday and put an information page on the Washington Climbers Coalition website this morning. www.washingtonclimbers.org See link on front page. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lisa_D Posted April 22, 2009 Author Share Posted April 22, 2009 I think it really is in everyone's best interest to avoid these routes and the nesting falcons. Along with all the obvious eco reasons, consider that a surprise dive-bombing falcon just might cause you to take the whipper of a lifetime. The pitches the falcons are protecting are long and only take a limited range of gear.. I was running it out a bit between pieces and was 15 feet above my last cam when I realized they were after me. I put in as much gear as possible after that, but only had so many #1 and #2 camalots and one big hex... I am sure I would have fallen off had the birds actually attacked me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lisa_D Posted April 22, 2009 Author Share Posted April 22, 2009 the bloodcurdling scream I let out seemed to do the trick and they backed off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 awesome photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SemoreJugs Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 Way to grab the last of ascent of OS! Was gonna hit that next weekend too, doh! Good luck baby raptors. If you can eat ticks, you are gonna love it on that ledge! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 so Lisa D, just curious... did u top out that day? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 sure sounds like it brought Jon up and we quickly climbed away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 surprised they weren't aware of the falcons presence earlier on in the route.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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