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Posted

my guess is that the sick hard pitches are essentially fixed or *bolted* in the sense that he will be doing very little gear fiddling at all...

Posted
my guess is that the sick hard pitches are essentially fixed or *bolted* in the sense that he will be doing very little gear fiddling at all...

 

Right, because everyone knows sport climbers can't climb trad!

Posted

no ass clown, that is not what i meant...i'm sure the guy is devastating on trad...what i meant was the sick pitches on the nose are not really trad climbs in the normal sense...certainly not like the endless sick splitters on the salathe...the hard pitches on the nose are a. fixed mainly, and b. face climbing...

 

take a look at any of the racks that these uberfolks are climbing with on the really hard pitches...

 

 

Posted

I'm pretty sure that the Great Roof is the crux and that there is little to no fixed gear based on the videos I watched of Tommy and Beth on it (seems to have been taken down). Lynn's description of a higher pitch involves fiddling in small stoppers.

 

I think it would be a notable achievement on a historic route.

Posted

no way to know if there will be fixed gear or not based on old videos. those routes change quickly. but that isn't the point

 

 

it would be rad if it goes! IMO, of course

Posted

Yuji and Hans are gonna be trying for the next speed record just before Chris gets on it, maybe they'll leave some cams for him. But since Chris was taking 100 foot whips regularly at Clark Mountain he can probably just cruze it out with 1-2 pieces a pitch right :grlaf:

Posted

Nice to see the Sharma publicity machine cranked up so the lad can continue to get paid - NOT. I'm still wishing him well, kid is so skilled.

 

My question is: how many free ascents has it seen so far?

Posted
Nice to see the Sharma publicity machine cranked up so the lad can continue to get paid - NOT. I'm still wishing him well, kid is so skilled.

 

My question is: how many free ascents has it seen so far?

 

5?

Lynn

Lynn in a day

Scott Burke * Great Roof Tr only

Beth and Tommy

Tommy in a day dual with Salathe

Posted
I'm pretty sure that the Great Roof is the crux

 

I was under the illusion that the changing corners pitch was the crux (14a)? Even if its the great roof, there is typically a decent amount of fixed crap on it.

 

No matter, if he can onsight it, it would be sweet! :brew:

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