Anyone here bolted basalt?

[summerprophet]

I am curious if anyone here has bolted basalt. Looking for specifics regarding plated nature of the rock, and equipment used.

 

Please PM me, to avoid details being available to any punk kid with a drill, and provide ammo to the angry "know it alls" who peruse thsi site without having been on rock in years.

 

This is in the Tieton.

 

Thanks in advance.

[ivan]

did today for my first time - recommend you ask billcoe here - he done got plenty of practice

[Toast]

Look up Mark Glidden with EMRU.

[catbirdseat]

I've drilled a few holes in basalt. You can tell when you are in sound rock and when you are not. First step is take your hammer and tap on the rock. Listen to the sound and feel how the hammer bounces. Any underlying plates will absorb energy.

 

When you say "plated" I think of Vantage, not Tieton, although Goose Egg Mountain has some plated rock.

[MattStan]

For the most part, the Tieton is andesite, not basalt, and while it forms similarly at a macro level, it's definitely different structurally. Anyway, if you're looking for expert advice on drilling in the Tieton (and on whether you should drill there at all), you should PM andyf.

[RJRiha]

Please PM me, to avoid details being available to any punk kid with a drill, and provide ammo to the angry "know it alls" who peruse thsi site without having been on rock in years.

 

If some punk kid with a drill is going to go bolting, wouldn't it be better if they had the RIGHT information? Yeah, I know it sucks when someone goes out and bolts a crappy line, but wouldn't it be worse if someone got seriously injured or died from a bolt blowing out?

[sk]

For the most part, the Tieton is andesite, not basalt, and while it forms similarly at a macro level, it's definitely different structurally. Anyway, if you're looking for expert advice on drilling in the Tieton (and on whether you should drill there at all), you should PM andyf.

 

thanks for clearing up the difference in the rock.

[mattp]

I agree with you, Malcom, but perhaps prophet's thought was that the discussion would include talk of where he was heading.

 

 

[billcoe]

Igneous ROCKS.

 

 

 

 

 

Full info here: Official Igneous Rocks website with band dates and pictures

 

 

[sobo]

Justin,

Where ya headed? And MattStan's right, the Tieton is predominantly andesite, depending upon your elevation. And Andy Fitz is probably the best resource on Tieton bolting that regularly peruses this board. Joe Puryear, too.

[Coldfinger]

Ditto on andyf....

 

IMHO there's not a whole lot of basalt in the Tieton that's worth bolting and what's there might get somebody killed.

 

You probably should arrange to TAKE andyf or some other experienced local to WHERE you want to bolt because it may well be you are looking to add bolts where the ethics of the crag might not be in tune with your plans.

[mattp]

Maybe I should let Andy speak for himself but he doesn't read cc.com all that often so I'll suggest that I bet he won't want to be appointed the ethics czar of the Tieton. He knows the history of the area and knows a thing or two about the issues involved as well as the tools, though.

 

It would be nice if we could actually use a forum such as this one or the WCC bulletin board for these types of discussions. It wouldn't necessarily be "private," but I mention the WCC bulletin board because we ask people to post there under their full names - first and last - hoping it will reduce the chances for inflammatory or inaccurate discussion. If you ask information there and get a response, this policy should allow you to know who you are dealing with and have an opportunity to follow up with them if there is any further question or misunderstanding.

[billcoe]

Maybe I should let Andy speak for himself but he doesn't read cc.com all that often so I'll suggest that I bet he won't want to be appointed the ethics czar of the Tieton. He knows the history of the area and knows a thing or two about the issues involved as well as the tools, though.

 

It would be nice if we could actually use a forum such as this one or the WCC bulletin board for these types of discussions. It wouldn't necessarily be "private," but I mention the WCC bulletin board because we ask people to post there under their full names - first and last - hoping it will reduce the chances for inflammatory or inaccurate discussion. If you ask information there and get a response, this policy should allow you to know who you are dealing with and have an opportunity to follow up with them if there is any further question or misunderstanding.

 

Good advice on consulting other locals who may have already chosen (or done) not to bolt the location.

[kevino]

blah blah blah

Edited June 11, 2008 by kevino

[Off_White]

Ahh, then perhaps you'd most want to contact Joe Puryear, either via PM on this site or via the contact info on his site, Cascade Images. He's the point man for the crew responsible for most of the routes there and has lots of experience with that rock. I know he remarked in a thread here about Ride The Lightning that some of the bolt locations are due to where there was suitable rock, not necessarily where the stance was.

 

There's a ton of rock on that formation, seems to me that putting up a route there seems like a sizable commitment.

 

I'm not sure which specifc rock that is, but it's not the same as the stuff lower down in the canyon.

[flashclimber]

Practice makes perfect (or close to it). Just practice on a few boulders in the area. Hook up a slack line to one of teh bolts and see if it holds (hahaha). Seriously tho, practice a little before putting anything up someone might put their life on. If you have never bolted before, go with someone who has to show you the ropes. Pretty basic stuff once you have done a few dozen bolts. Have fun drilling, just dont do it next to a crack!

[sobo]

O_W-

Believe it or not, the stuff on GE is indeed andesite. And thanks for providing Joe's web addy. I left it out in my first reply above.

 

flashclimber-

Justin is no stranger to bolting, although his preferred medium is granite and granodiorite.

[pope]

Please PM me, to avoid details being available to any punk kid with a drill, and provide ammo to the angry "know it alls" who peruse thsi site without having been on rock in years.

 

From this we may gather that you aren't just some "punk kid with a drill". So what are ya? Some old fart with a drill? Does that make you better? No matter how old you are, you should consider top roping, or if you must drill, get it done on the lead. That's how you distinguish yourself from just another "punk kid with a drill".

[mattp]

That is also how you develop generally inferior climbs -- assuming the goal is to create a substantially bolt-protected climb that is intended for repeat ascents.

[sobo]

From this we may gather that you aren't just some "punk kid with a drill". So what are ya? Some old fart with a drill? Does that make you better? No matter how old you are, you should consider top roping, or if you must drill, get it done on the lead. That's how you distinguish yourself from just another "punk kid with a drill".

He is neither, and I don't believe he feels himself superior to anyone. Where he is contemplating the installation of bolts does not lend itself to toproping, since it is beyond the reach of standard climbing rope lengths and the top is shit for permanent anchors. I suspect that any bolts that are needed will be put in on lead, if I know him as well as I think I do. Go rest now.

[billcoe]

Please PM me, to avoid details being available to any punk kid with a drill, and provide ammo to the angry "know it alls" who peruse thsi site without having been on rock in years.

 

From this we may gather that you aren't just some "punk kid with a drill". So what are ya? Some old fart with a drill? Does that make you better? No matter how old you are, you should consider top roping, or if you must drill, get it done on the lead. That's how you distinguish yourself from just another "punk kid with a drill".

 

So is this the first angry "know it all" post thing original dude was talkin about?

 

Coming up: the inevitable clowns, dwarfs....then later .....Nazis......in 3.......2.........1...........

[denalidave]

Please PM me, to avoid details being available to any punk kid with a drill, and provide ammo to the angry "know it alls" who peruse thsi site without having been on rock in years.

 

From this we may gather that you aren't just some "punk kid with a drill". So what are ya? Some old fart with a drill? Does that make you better? No matter how old you are, you should consider top roping, or if you must drill, get it done on the lead. That's how you distinguish yourself from just another "punk kid with a drill".

 

So is this the first angry "know it all" post thing original dude was talkin about?

 

Coming up: the inevitable clowns, dwarfs....then later .....Nazis......in 3.......2.........1...........

Where's RD when you need him?

[andyf]

Ironically, I was replacing the last of the twenty-year old bolts on Sun and the Moon (Moon Rocks) about the time this post went up. Sounds like we're talking about Goose Egg, though, not the more "typical" Tieton crags. Summerprophet, if you want to PM me, I'd be happy to talk about my Tieton experience.

 

Andy

 

[Coldfinger]

Geez! Meant no offense, I just took him at his word about bolting basalt. In that regard there isn't a whole lot of bolted basalt as much of it is entableture that is not at all either climbable or safely boltable, which is why it hasn't been developed.

 

But there are some impressive cliffs, like those across from the Moon Rocks parking.

 

The Tieton is such a nice place because it has been a small group of developers and everybody has worked together. That and much has been done that no one reported. Andy is a great help because he knows so much and cares even more!

[sobo]

CF-

I'm quite familiar with Moon Rocks, but I can't picture any "impressive cliffs" across from Moon Rocks. That stuff is low angle by comparison, scrubby scree, and choss. Are you sure you aren't talking about some other venue in the Tieton?