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MattStan

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About MattStan

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    journeyman
  1. New, never used. Cash only, meet up in greater Seattle area.
  2. $175. New, never used. Previous to the current generation. Cash only, meet up in greater Seattle area.
  3. $120 for 12 bent and 12 straight. Lightly used. Cash only, meet up in greater Seattle area.
  4. $75. New, never used. Cash only, meet up in greater Seattle area.
  5. Cleaning up. I'll be at the Seattle Bouldering Project parking lot on 10/28 from 2PM to 4PM to do the deals. If you want to buy a large portion, we can make separate arrangements. Feel free to PM me to reserve gear ahead of time. Reservations will be noted here. Reservations not paid for by 3PM will be lost. Exact cash only. All gear sold as is. Purchaser responsible for replacing slings, etc. None of the trad gear has ever sustained a lead fall. Yes, that's right, not even the 1st gen Camalots. Thanks, Matt Gear Used y/n price DMM Revolver n $15 RESERVED DMM Revolver n $15 RESERVED Petzl Reversino n $5 Petzl Ascenders lightly $40 RESERVED Camalot 1, first gen y $10 Camalot 2, first gen y $10 Camalot 3, first gen y $10 Simond Spider straight/bent n $5 Kong Gigi n $5 Austri Alpin Micro biners x2 n $5 Pile of misc biners (30 or more) y $10 RESERVED WC Rocks 10-14 lightly $25 WC Rocks 12-14 lightly $15 DMM Peenuts 1-4 lightly $15 Frost Sentinel nuts 1-8 lightly $40 WC Rockcentrics 3,4,5,7 lightly $15 Camp Excentric 2,4,6 lightly $10 #0 Metolius TCU, circa 90s y $10 RESERVED #1 Metolius quad, circa 90s y $10 RESERVED #2 Metolius quad, circa 90s y $10 RESERVED #4 Metolius quad, circa 90s y $10 RESERVED #5 Metolius quad, circa 90s y $10 RESERVED #6 Metolius quad, circa 90s y $10 RESERVED #2 Ocun quad n $10 #3.5 Ocun quad n $10 #1.5 Wild Country technical friend y $10 RESERVED #1.75 Wild Country technical friend y $10 RESERVED #3 Wild Country technical friend y $10 RESERVED Sportiva Testarossa, 38 barely $25 FiveTen Team VXi 7.5 n $40 Koflach Degre 7.5 moderate $25 Garmont Mega Ride AT boots 25.5 light $35 La Sportiva banana last shoes 1990s, red n $25 BD Sabretooth crampons very $10 DMM Terminator crampons moderate $20 Black Diamond Ice Clipper n $5 Black Diamond Zero Point ice axe light $20 Black Diamond Viper tools, 1st gen, extra hammer one light, one new $125 Grivel pick and adze, late 90s n $5 Arc'teryx M20 ski pack lightly $25 Lowe Alpine Attack 20 lightly $20 Platy Origin 9 w/ reservoir n $15 Platy Origin 22.18 w/ reservoir lightly $20 Black Diamond Stubby haulbag n $75 Climb Moab haulbag light $20 RESERVED Marmot Driclime windshirt light $20 Wild Things Belay Jacket, Epic/Primaloft light $50 Misc guide/instructional/AAJ $1 each Cocoon Primaloft overbag lightly $25 MSR Deploy TR3 poles n $25 MSR Flight 2 poles n $20 MSR Denali 3 poles n $20 BD Skins, fit for old Crossbow, size?? lightly $10 Prana chalk bag n $5 OR Helium Awning n $25 Eno Doublenest hammock n $20
  6. George Carlin 1937-2008

    Not written by Carlin, but "Dr." Bob Moorehead, former pastor of Overlake Christian Church, who resigned as head of the church when he was found to have molested several male parishoners. Now that's something Carlin would have had fun with. There's surfeit of material swirling around t3h int@rn3ts falsely attributed to Carlin. Check out snopes.com for the full lowdown. The man was ahead of his time in some startling ways. His "Airport Security" routine from 1999 eerily presaged 9/11. I imagine he's pretty pissed off right now, feeling he had left so much unsaid.
  7. Helmets for cragging - likes & dislikes

    If a cragging fall is your concern, then the so-called softshell is the way to go. I have a BD Tracer for cragging and can honestly say I don't even notice it on while climbing. One thing to note when selecting a helmet is the difference between CE and UIAA certification. Both organizations test the same, but their standards differ, with the UIAA being the more stringent. It's been a few years since I examined a range of helmets, but back in 2004 or so, there were at least a few Euro helmets on the market that didn't sport UIAA cert. Both the Tracer and the Meteor III pass UIAA. It's also interesting to note that they haven't yet mandated a test for impact in a fall. They test vertical and perimeter impact with a 5kg weight, measuring the force transmitted, but that really doesn't equate at all. In all the years I've been climbing with my father, he's only ever climbed one route sans lid. He's been cragging for over 45 years and is the coolest climber I know. If he sees the sense in wearing a helmet, everyone should -- 'nuff said.
  8. Anyone here bolted basalt?

    For the most part, the Tieton is andesite, not basalt, and while it forms similarly at a macro level, it's definitely different structurally. Anyway, if you're looking for expert advice on drilling in the Tieton (and on whether you should drill there at all), you should PM andyf.
  9. Eastern Washington Boldering

    If you're in need of some kitty litter, then yeah... Not worth your time, especially with what's up there somewhere in the O.K. Noggin.
  10. Infinite Bliss chopped- true or false?

    Er, were you thinking of me?
  11. Offwidths in Leavenworth

    RE: the backside of Grand Central at Peshastin... Vertigo has more of a chimney on its upper half, not really an off-width. Empire State possesses a few off-width moves here and there, but doesn't stand out as an off-width per se, especially with all its face holds. Bomb Shelter definitely isn't an off-width either. I remember belaying Jens on that ages ago... not that a belay mattered, as the kitty-litter rock and aged fix pro probably wouldn't hold the bodyweight of an infant. T'was a nice on-sight on Jens's part.
  12. Suggestions for Yos.

    That's where Bishop's Terrace is, if'n I recollect correctly. Tasty two-pitch 5.8 with a super-short approach. I'll also second the recommendation on Central Pillar of Frenzy -- just make sure to pack a #4 Camalot for the wide stuff on it and don't venture beyond the fifth pitch. If you're looking to push yourself, consider Serenity Crack, if it's not too hot.
  13. inspiring books about female climbers

    Alison Osius, of Climbing/Rock & Ice (and Lynn's ghost editor on Climbing Free), has Catherine Freer's personal journals and papers. Hopefully she'll one day find the time to write Freer's bio, as Freer certainly stands out as one of America's best all-around female climbers. One can only imagine what she'd have achieved had her life not been tragically cut short. Sadly, a lot of women climbers these days are largely ignorant of her legacy.
  14. crack climbing sucks

    As do a host of other hardmen. Jay Smith (another person who's tougher than anyone on this board) has one of the most elaborate taping routines I've ever witnessed. Taping is less about compensating for poor technique and more about compensating for weak skin. Some people are lucky enough to have thick hides that can withstand a belt sander. The rest of us have to opt for a little epidermal augmentation.
  15. Hugh Banner passes on

    I had the honor of meeting Hugh a few times. He was a classic old-school Brit climber: short, stout, and full of mirth. And oh did he ever love to talk about gear. He had an amazing prototype of a much updated Dyneema helmet, which will likely never see the light of day.
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