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Your Climbing Heroes


wayne

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My Climbing Heroes: Short List

 

Tony Yaniro and Boone Speed for teaching my little boy to climb and train. He's 15 now and began leading 5.12 last year.

 

Ivan for teaching me that Beacon Rock can be climbed wet, in mid-winter, while being subjected to the worst possible singing ever. :shock:

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Ivan for teaching me that Beacon Rock can be climbed wet, in mid-winter, while being subjected to the worst possible singing ever. :shock:

was i channeling abba or wierd al that day? i can't recall...

 

bill, i know you gotz problems man, but damn - anyone who considers me a hero must have issues...with hair on them! :)

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Anatoli Boukreev, the only person who had their shit together on Everest in 96, he saved multiple lives and then got villified in the media.

He had the audacity to present his decisions in an honest way. He chose NOT to lose his life in the effort to extract the tourists. In so doing, he was the last hope for those who were still out flapping in the breeze. He got roasted in Krackower's book and the US media continued the cold war hangover.

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Anatoli Boukreev, the only person who had their shit together on Everest in 96, he saved multiple lives and then got villified in the media.

He had the audacity to present his decisions in an honest way. He chose NOT to lose his life in the effort to extract the tourists. In so doing, he was the last hope for those who were still out flapping in the breeze. He got roasted in Krackower's book and the US media continued the cold war hangover.

I agree. He had his shit together, fer sure. And Krakauer's lambasting him for not using oxygen to save more tourists was a low blow. And the media siding with Krakauer, well, that was just plain disingenuous.

 

For you folks that have only read Into Thin Air, you need to read The Climb for the other side of the story.

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I thought so too until I went and heard her speak. She was the biggest disapointment I have ever experienced at a climbing show. But she sure is one hell of a climber!!!

 

 

Why was she a disappointment? I know she has a laid back style of communicating and all. Were you expecting her to do jumping jacks?

 

I had the great honor about 4 years ago to rope up with Lynn for 2 days at Smith Rock. She is a truly gifted rock climber. At one point in the one of the days I found myself sitting in the shade eating a sandwich and Lynn was also there fixing her backpack. We were the only people in earshot. I was able to carry on a conversation with her. It was exciting to sit and talk to perhaps the greatest climber of all time. I asked her why she tried to climb the nose and then come back and do it in a day. Her answer was truly inspiring………..”because I thought I could do it!"

 

 

 

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I thought so too until I went and heard her speak. She was the biggest disapointment I have ever experienced at a climbing show. But she sure is one hell of a climber!!!

 

 

Why was she a disappointment? I know she has a laid back style of communicating and all. Were you expecting her to do jumping jacks?

 

Arch, where did you see Lynn Hill speak? I saw her up at B'ham about 3 or 4 years ago. I remember her speaking style wasn't very captivating... I wouldn't quite call it depressed, but definitely subdued. I didn't leave the show stoked the way I do after other shows I've been to. Again, that's nothing to knock on Lynn Hill's success and achievements... just disappointing that I didn't get the stoke I expected from the show.

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john frieh :grin:

 

I second that.

 

ALSO

 

Todd Skinner

Anyone pulling down hard and putting up new routes that get no publicity, like my buddy Trevor (over 200+ FA's) and he is 23.

Pat Callis

Jack Tackle

Bean Bowers

Will Gadd because he dominates everything he tries

 

 

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My climbing heros are those who put other more important things in the fore of their life. I used to have big name heros like all of you but then I realized they were all dead (some leaving their family behind).

 

Greg Carocciolo (general manager of Northern Lights Trading Co) would be my climbing hero because he could be a world class climber but chose to be a little more responsible. He understands the need to be there and provide for his family. However, he manages to crank rediculously hard and get out and play very hard whenever he can. He is a phenominal human being and is a climber that all should look up to! But hooray for all those who make the pages of Alpinist and the AAJ every year.

 

Climbers who I don't like = Bean Bowers

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