Coolest Moderate Climbs on Earth

[layton]

This probably has been done countless times, but let's hear what you think (you don't even have to have climbed it) the coolest moderate climbs on earth are?

Single pitch to full scale VII's under 5.11c/d and WI5+

 

I'll start:

Lotus Flower Tower

Slipstream

The Nose

 

Also, let's focus on posting about some really cool climbs instead of degenerating in to an opinion fest as to what moderate is, or if I'm thinly veiling an attempt to show how hard I may or may not climb to define moderate as such.

 

I'll also leave the commitment grade and sustained nature of the climb open to common sense. (i.e. a grade VII 5.11+,WI5 that is sustained the whole way is OBVIOUSLY not moderate, a grade VII WI3 just may be moderate, a single pitch of WI5+ or 5.11c is indeed moderate, and a grade VI 5.10- WI3/4 is within the scope of the modern climber willing to train and commit if he/she so desires).

 

Easy=Anyone could probably get up it in reasonable shape

Moderate=A climber who is mildly talented or applies him/herself could climb this

Hard=You are either really gifted or trained like a mother'fa and have no life

Edited April 29, 2008 by layton

[ivan]

the ones i've done that are high on my list:

complete n ridge of mt stuart

ne buttress of johanesburg

young warriors at beacon rock

yer mama

[bwrts]

open book tahquitz for sure.

whodunnit looked good too.

 

red rocks frogland

 

r and d icicle butt

 

northwest corner news

 

can't remember the name but the line jordan peters, steve h and I did on I 3 or somethin in the Wad range was f'n spectacular and moderate at 5.10 contrivometered... hopefully jordan or steve will chime in and post a few pics sometime or more specifics as the the southern cali sun and rock has dulled my memory.

 

durance root on devils tower looks good.

 

 

 

[powderhound]

o

 

durance root on devils tower looks good.

 

 

 

its one of the least classic at the tower, IMO

 

Spare Rib, Gallatin Canyon, MT

Killer Karma, Tensleep Canyon, WY

Ancient Art, Fischers

Wheat Thin & Carols Crack, City of Rocks

MR. CLEAN & Tulgey Wood, Devils Tower

Bovine Intervention, The Wedge

 

I could climb these routes everyday for the rest of my life and be satisfied

 

[marc_leclerc]

 

This one! It is under 5.11c but is strenous.

 

And this 5.10a finger crack!

[ivan]

how could i forget slesse ne buttress?

[JosephH]

Eldo -

 

Bastille Crack and Yellow Spur, did both this weekend - dosen't get any better than that.

[marc_leclerc]

how could i forget slesse ne buttress?

 

I was thinking the same thing

[DRep]

I think the Lotus Flower Tower is my choice. Got a trip planned there with 2 friends for summer 2009!

[ivan]

I think the Lotus Flower Tower is my choice. Got a trip planned there with 2 friends for summer 2009!

wow - never seen that until now - the approach looks a bit intense - how much do you reckon it'll cost you?

[wayne]

Sunribbon

[Off_White]

I think the Lotus Flower Tower is my choice. Got a trip planned there with 2 friends for summer 2009!

wow - never seen that until now - the approach looks a bit intense - how much do you reckon it'll cost you?

 

Friends of mine liked it so much they did it twice while they were there!

[dt_3pin]

This probably has been done countless times, but let's hear what you think (you don't even have to have climbed it) the coolest moderate climbs on earth are?

Single pitch to full scale VII's under 5.11c/d and WI5+

 

I'll start:

Lotus Flower Tower

Slipstream

The Nose

 

Slipstream? When did 900+M, Grade VI ice climbs with significant objective hazard become moderate?

[dberdinka]

 

Slipstream? When did 900+M, Grade VI ice climbs with significant objective hazard become moderate?

 

On the internet fooooo!

[fenderfour]

It's new wave chest beating. Instead of spraying about the hard climb you've sent, you casually mention it in passing and call it "moderate".

[Peter_Puget]

and the answers are....

 

Godzilla - Sloe Children - to the top (Index)

Davis Holland - STP (or Lovin' Arms) (Index)

J Gardens - 10% (Index)

Hot Line (Yosemite)

[Blake]

second Ancient Arts... (5.8 AO & unforgettable)

 

Locally: NW Face of Forbidden

 

Canadianesque: NW Ridge of Sir Donald

[mattp]

I should say my favorite moderate climb is the [insert big name climb], with confidence that it is bigger, harder, and/or gnarlier than anything you other poseurs are likely to be climbing.

 

Instead, I'll suggest The Tooth (fantastic beginners route), West Ridge of Pigeon Spire (short alpine scramble with great ambiance), and High Exposure (historic Gunks classic 5.6 with about forty feet of the coolest 5.6 anywhere).

[John Frieh]

Slipstream? When did 900+M, Grade VI ice climbs with significant objective hazard become moderate?

 

Soloed in the late 80s.

[G-spotter]

Sw Butt of the old Settler

S Ridge of Gimli

Brewers Buttress

Angels Crest

[mattp]

Soloed in the late 80s.

 

Seriously, John: that is your definition of "moderate?" Layton has set some of you folks up for a joke!

[jared_j]

Crimson Chrysalis, Red Rocks. All free, well-protected, minimal objective hazard, a moderate grade (5.8), fun climbing, great position at the top of the climb on top of the tower. Easy approach, too.

 

Very cool along the 'cool = fun/easy/low risk" dimensions YMMV

 

Edited April 28, 2008 by jared_j

[dt_3pin]

Slipstream? When did 900+M, Grade VI ice climbs with significant objective hazard become moderate?

 

Soloed in the late 80s.

 

I'll concede that if its been skied, it may be moderate. Until then . . .

[John Frieh]

Soloed in the late 80s.

 

Seriously, John: that is your definition of "moderate?"

 

If I can drag my butt up something it has to be moderate... if not newbie material

 

In my highly objective personal opinion moderate is something a majority of the climbing population could climb with some personal challenge. As the cutting edge/edge of the envelope gets pushed further and further to me what is "moderate" becomes harder and harder...

 

...using slipstream as an example this year on the north face of snowdome (around the corner from slipstream for those of you unfamiliar with snowdome) polarity (VI WI5+, 800m) went up... IMO this is cutting edge... no not the hardest thing done to date but definitely a step up from slipstream... that would make slipstream more moderate IMO.

 

Fair?

 

 

[mattp]

I understand where you are coming from, John: standards are going up all the time and something that was cutting edge 25 years ago no longer raises an eybrow. Slipstream is certainly not "extreme."

 

1 a: avoiding extremes of behavior or expression : observing reasonable limits b: calm, temperate2 a: tending toward the mean or average amount or dimension b: having average or less than average quality : mediocre3: professing or characterized by political or social beliefs that are not extreme4: limited in scope or effect5: not expensive : reasonable or low in price6of a color : of medium lightness and medium chroma

— mod·er·ate·ly adverb

— mod·er·ate·ness noun

 

You could take the first two words of Webster's definition and squeeze Slipstream in there but, of the big name climbs listed here, how many of the people posting on cc.com or even posting in this thread have climbed a bunch of routes much more difficult and bigger?