[TR] Inspiration - East Ridge 7/8/2007

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Trip: Inspiration - East Ridge

 

Date: 7/8/2007

 

Trip Report:

Mike (Colt45) and I climbed the E. Ridge of Inspiration over the weekend. According to the rangers, no one had been up in the area recently. Seems as though quite a bit of damage and overgrowth occured on the Goodell trail. Things were pretty straight forward from the parking area to about 2100ft, only a few overgrown spots. After that, where the trail is supposed to go steeply upwards, we found ourselves pretty much lost. From the last piece of orange surveyors tape near a large boulder, we spent about 2 hours looking for a continuation of the trail. Finally we resolved to just head upward. Things started out reasonably well in a dried stream bed,

 

 

but soon we were forced into vertical tree climbing and other shenanigans.

 

3000 ft later we finally reached the snow covered heather bench and picked up a remnant of the trail. Traversing eventually brought us to the base of a gully that seemed to lead up to 6200'. When we reached 6200', we looked out and saw a promient notch a 6200' one ridge over. Rather than descend, we decided to rappel our ridge to minimize elevation loss. (FYI, the Kearney description is specific about crossing the first ridge at 5700', the nelson description doesnt mention the first ridge).

 

 

Finally we were on track and we reached the notch and were treated to a view of the finest campsite I've ever had the pleasure of using.

 

 

The next morning we woke early and headed out towards inspration.

 

 

We gained the route via some moderate ice just to the right of the furthest right snow tongue in the following picture.

 

 

Enjoyable 5.7 climbing lead to a third class ramp system that we follwed up and right.

 

 

Next Mike lead up and left of a large snow patch via loose terrain.

 

 

Eventually more looseness and generally sketchy climbing brought us to the ridgecrest.

 

 

The crest of the ridge involved two steep pitches. The first was a 5.8 lieback flake that unfortunately ended too soon and required steep climbing via detached blocks to reach a great loose ledge. The next pitch starts with a spectacular wide hand crack which can be exited rightward via an improbable traverse to gain another crack system which unfortunately has more of the requisite loose blocks and holds. Mike made a damn fine lead of this psuedo gem. (This pitch is supposedly 5.9, but it felt a bit harder to me while following).

 

 

Beyond this pitch the rock quality increases quite a bit, and the climbing becomes very enjoyable. A nondescript and fun 5.6 pitch leads from up the N. Face with spotty pro to the base of the flase summit block. Next Mike led a breathtaking traverse around the south side of the block. 5.7 climbing with 1000' of air under your feet as soon as you turn the corner.

 

 

The rest of the ridge connecting the false summit to the true summit was easier, but just as spectacular. This photo does not do the ridge justice. In places you walk on a perfectly flat 2ft wide sidewalk with big exposure all around you.

 

After summitting we quicly started a series of single rope rappels down the W. Ridge. Rap anchors then abruptly ended, forcing a bit of convoluted scrambling to reach the next set of anchors. After exlporing all of our options, we chose an anchor over the S. Face that happened to have the most slings. Mike rapped down, but had to place directionals to reach the next anchor. I rapped down a slightly different direction and was able to reach the uncomfortable overhanging station with only minor shenanigans (if you rap from this anchor, rap off the west side of the block). This rap lead to a ledge that was easily traversed to another good anchor (2 nuts). After this rap we didn't see an more stations, so again we started roped scrambling. I looked all over, initially only seeing another anchor out of reach below in a muddy gully, but eventually I spotted a manky old anchor up above. I scrambled up to it, noted it's mankyness, then belayed mike over. We were able to place another anchor with a red cordalette directly above. We then rapped into the gully and another rap do a large boulder where we place a double length sling as a rappel anchor. After this rap we were finally down and only a sketchy steep snow traverse above a crevasse stood between us and the long walk back to camp.

 

Descending today we were able to find the proper trail at the bench at 5200', but it abruptly disappeared at 4700', forcing us into another long bushwhack. Finally we found the trail again at 2100', where we were able to make the long hike out.

 

All in all a pretty full on adventure that seemed to test us in every aspect (approach, climb, descent, deproach). The climbing itself was very on and off, but when it was on, it was awesome.

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

1x red c3, Camalots 0.4-2, #2 link cam, set nuts

2x #3 camalots (2nd not used because mike was able to walk his single #3 through the wide section)

 

 

 

Approach Notes:

Many trees down on lower trail. Usually the most logical direction is correct. No idea where the real trail to go up to the bench starts. We may have encountered it on our descent, underneath logs and devils club. Hopefully more traffic will make more clear.

 

On the upper traverse cross the first ridge at a large bench at 5700', then aim for the notch at 6200'.

[Serenity]

Hopefully the trail will remain ambiguous and in the future climbers will enjoy an adventure similar to your's. Good work, good report.

[MCash]

Nice work Jason and cool pics. When I tried that route 2 years ago, the trail was easy to follow. Kind of a bummer that it no longer exists on that long steep section. The route was plenty adventurous before, I don't think it needs a bushwack too. (Just my opinion)

[goatboy]

Hmm..hopefully the old trail is there if you know where to look for it. Perhaps more traffic will reveal it again.

 

Nice work on the route. That steep 5.9 handcrack pitch is GREAT! Sounds like you had the gear you needed for it. We didn't have nearly enough large cams when we grovelled up it a few years ago...but it's an amazing pitch in the mountains!

 

We also epicked a bit on the descent...All in all, a very long and committing Grade IV route, I would say.

 

 

[Rad]

Nice report. Persistence is key.

 

I have very fond memories of that route and don't remember it as chossy as you describe. Then again, we were climbing in the mist for most of our trip so I had other concerns. FYI, about 25 feet right of your final splitter crack is another handcrack that may be a bit easier, but still 5.9.

 

The 'trail' is worn from the converging feet of climbers, so hopefully an efficient path of least resistance will emerge again over time.

 

Again, good job.

 

[goatboy]

Hey Rad,

 

Do you mean the obvious crack about 10-15' right, visible in the photo? Or another one?

 

I agree that the one Trogdor climbed is steeeeep and pretty strenuous -- feels like sustained 5.9 -- tough with a pack full of boots, ice ax, crampons, water, etc...

 

I remember Beckey and co. descending the route when they climbed the E Ridge -- maybe they climbed it without carrying all their stuff up?

[chucK]

Nice job guys.

 

As far as the trail goes, I think you might have started up a bit too soon. The trail leaves from an old campsite (used to have big fire ring) soon after the dry streambed. When we went up there two years ago, we had a bit of trouble finding the trail on the far side of the dry streambed. I think it's a bit down the dry streambed rather than up.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

We knew the other crack was there, but the one we climbed looked way too good to pass up.

 

Regarding the trail, I think we picked it up again on the way down after descending almost to where we had started up on friday. To connect the possible trail to where we started up we had to cross some big fallen trees and significant devils club, so it is no wonder we didnt find it on the way up.

 

It wasn't so much that the route was chossy as it was that it was sometimes chossy looking/feeling on very steep moves. Probably solid enough if you are used to the type of terrain, but quite frightening for us.

 

BTW, I think the route is Grade II-III in Beckey

[Alpinfox]

 

SUPAH!

 

Thanks for the report.

[Rad]

"Do you mean the obvious crack about 10-15' right, visible in the photo? Or another one?"

 

We had only 1 #3 camalot and 1 #2 so I found an alternate to that hand/fist crack, which does look stellar. The crack we did may be the one in the photo or perhaps even another ten feet right (out of the photo). It is perfect hands, sustained but not too hard, and goes over a very small roof mid-height, finishing near the chimney-shaped block on the upper right skyline in that shot. Then you climb about 20 feet or so up a face around to the right (N) to get to the top of the buttress (where we slept, roped in, watching the stars, while slipping off my sleeping pad toward the void - good times!)

 

The trail is about 100 yards PAST the creekbed that crosses the logging road trail around 4 miles out. Drink and fill your water bottles here as there is none on the steep ascent. As Chuck mentioned, you have to go downhill/downstream a little bit to pick up the trail to the campsite (a flat open area in the forest). Both times I've been there people had laid lots of stones in a line to mark the start of the ascent trail.

[Toast]

Nice :tup:

[Lisa_D]

what a beautiful place...and a great adventure!

[ericandlucie]

Nice job and thanks for the report.

Three questions:

1) did you find flowing water at camp (looks like you did)?

2) was there water anywhere along the steep climber's trail?

3) do you think that rapping back down the East Ridge would be a viable option? I know most climbers come down the West Ridge and/or South Face but since it doesn't look like a picnic... (I haven't been there yet)

Thanks!

[TrogdortheBurninator]

1) The camp is wonderful, two streams and a small tarn

 

2) Since we never found the real trail, I'm not certain, but if the stream bed we followed is an indication, I'd think not. There are a few small streams and bigger streams on the lower approach (before steepness), and you could fill up at terror creek shortly before heading up hill. You will find a nice waterfall to fill up at right after you reach the top of the steep bit.

 

3) We saw only one fixed anchor (3 rusty old pins) on the E. Ridge proper, plus two more slung blocks down lower. You could probably get by fine, but you may have to leave some gear. With two ropes the W. Ridge/S. Face descent wouldn't be too bad I think, but you'd need to get a little lucky. With one rope (60m) you could repeat our beta and do fine also I think. Just don't skip any stations on the W Ridge, head for the block with lots of slings on the S. Face, rap to the W. Side of the block and find the overhanging Station partway down. Rap to the large ledge where the angle lessens and traverse west to an anchor. Rap down to the 3rd class section. Build anchor and belay or just scramble down and westward to an equalized anchor between two horns (one red cord, one faded webbing). Rap into gully below and look east for station. Rap down to big block (double length mammut sling, would be more secure if replaced with long cord). Rap down to dirty gully and scramble/belay back to glacier (possible steep snow, schrund, crevasses).

[John Frieh]

Nice TR and climb guys... great to see TRs on the more "obscure" stuff

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Is the approach supposed to come close to Terror creek? If not, I wonder if we didnt actually pass the trail as per the NF Terror beta in Nelson. Does anyone know if the terror approach is also flagged in orange tape? The thing that makes me think we were sort of in the right area is that where we gained the heather bench at 5200' was actually very close to the heavily worn descent trail we temporarily followed (~1 treed buttress south)on our way back.

[Rad]

"Is the approach supposed to come close to Terror creek?"

 

Nope. It turns uphill before you ever get to Terror Creek. It was night when I came out from Terror Creek to the trail the other direction, but I'd guess it was somewhere between several hundred yards and half a mile. The best landmark is the small creek mentioned several times above. You can't miss it because it is the only creek with water that crosses the logging road after about half way.

[colt45]

Sounds like we went WAY past the correct turnoff...we followed a flagged trail up terror creek for at least a mile!

 

here are a few more photos:

 

Impressive wall on an unnamed peak that we passed on the approach:

 

Inspiration peak from the south. Our route is the right skyline.

 

The right side of the south face, from partway up our route. It's incredibly steep, and it looks like the rock quality is amazing. It also looks hard and unprotectable though.

 

View of Triumph and its striking North Rib.

 

The only good rap anchor we saw on the east ridge (maybe from the first ascent?). I think the south face rappel we did is the way to go.

 

The lieback pitch:

 

Jason looks for a way up to the ridge from the north side:

 

The spectacular summit traverse:

 

Wandering around on the descent. This was similar in looseness and exposure to the east ledges on forbidden. Eventually we did a rappel here and found a fixed station lower down.

 

Note on the descent: The south face raps we did seem like a good option. It seemed set up for rappelling with 2 60m ropes, because every other rappel had a bomber station, but we found, or created, adequate stations in between which allowed us to get by fine with one 60m rope. The only trick is when you do an overhanging rappel from the slung block at the west ridge notch: I had the ropes over the east side of the block, but realized I needed to move west to get to an anchor (because the anchor I was going for looked sketchy on closer viewing). This required tying off my device and penduluming 20-30 feet, placing two pieces on the way...Jason flipped the rope over the west side of the slung block and was able to go basically straight down to the same place.

[glm]

Great job, guys, and great pictures! Your description of the "perfectly flat 2ft wide sidewalk with big exposure" sounds a lot like the top of the WR of Forbidden at it's best. Don't you love pseudo-random, meandering descents?

 

Jason - from what I was told of your original weekend plans, this was a much better idea.

[ericandlucie]

Thanks for your replies guys!

Eric.

[olyclimber]

nice looking

 

[curtveld]

"Is the approach supposed to come close to Terror creek?"

 

Anybody been into Terror basin since these guys to see if the approach trail is gone or what?

[fgw]

shoot an email to folks @ www.ericandlucie.com as they've been up there a couple days ago.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Some friends of mine were up there shortly after us, and they were able to find the trail. We just botched it.

[ericandlucie]

Just a quick note to let everyone know that the climber's trail is indeed still there and in very good shape (we were up there August 2, 2007). Basically, if at any point, you don't feel like you are obviously on a well travelled path, backtrack and look for a missed turn. Steep, brutal even, but always obvious.

BTW, the glacier to the base of the East Ridge route was fairly straightforward, with only one tight section of ice going through the icefall, and some moderately large crevasses higher up.