XXX Posted July 1, 2007 Posted July 1, 2007 I was climbing up near Barneys rubble this past Saturday, noticed a bunch of EMS/Fire trucks on the Rock. I think someone fell. Anyone else hear about this accident or have any info? T Quote
montypiton Posted July 2, 2007 Posted July 2, 2007 a novice climber fell attempting the final lead on the R&D route on Icicle buttress. He was evacuated by personnel from the Chelan County Sheriff's High Angle Rope Rescue Team, assisted by volunteers from the Chelan County Mountain Rescue Association. the fallen climber was taken by Cascade Ambulance Service to Cascade Hospital (Leavenworth), with an apparent ankle fracture. The 911 call was received by Rivercom (Chelan County's emergency dispatch agency) at about 1530, and the climber was in the ambulance by 1900. Quote
catbirdseat Posted July 2, 2007 Posted July 2, 2007 New leaders consistently underestimate the difficulty of the moves off that ledge. It is perfectly protectable, yet people fail to adequately protect those moves. Quote
dmuja Posted July 2, 2007 Posted July 2, 2007 Is that the section thats a bit above the squeeze/chimney, where you get up into one of the cracks? or is it higher up near the last few feet of slab? Quote
DirtyHarry Posted July 2, 2007 Posted July 2, 2007 That death-route R & D claims yet another victim. MLU's should be mandatory on that climb. Quote
lizard_brain Posted July 2, 2007 Posted July 2, 2007 That death-route R & D claims yet another victim. MLU's should be mandatory on that climb. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted July 2, 2007 Posted July 2, 2007 Dudes, give the guy a break. I almost shattered both my ankles this weekend, so I can empathize. Hope you heal up well. ~~Good Vibes~~ Quote
fenderfour Posted July 2, 2007 Posted July 2, 2007 Good vibes indeed. We were all new at one time. We all did stupid things, some of us were luckier than others. Quote
saragrace Posted July 2, 2007 Posted July 2, 2007 Catbird - Any more specific beta for newer leaders considering this route, or just protect, protect, protect (competently)? I've been eyeing it all season, but so far have limited my trad leading to single pitches. And, having had some adventures at Leavenworth this year I've learned that beta from experienced climbers helps fill in the gaps not addressed by the various guidebooks... Thank you, Saragrace Quote
fenderfour Posted July 2, 2007 Posted July 2, 2007 The final pitch is a steep handcrack, the 5.6 crux of the route. As you stated, the solution is to protect often. It is a short crack and there is a ledge below. Make sure to put a piece at the top of the crack, since there is a slab above with little pro. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted July 2, 2007 Posted July 2, 2007 What happened, Week? Weak is more like as I can't even aid 5.10. That's all Quote
catbirdseat Posted July 2, 2007 Posted July 2, 2007 The final pitch is a steep handcrack, the 5.6 crux of the route. As you stated, the solution is to protect often. It is a short crack and there is a ledge below. Make sure to put a piece at the top of the crack, since there is a slab above with little pro. What he said and protect your exit moves (sounds like a Gilliganism doesn't it?). There are more than one cracks coming off that ledge. I believe the one on the right is somewhat easier than the one further down to the left. I guess what caught me off guard the first time I led that, was that the crack is somewhat flaring. You can get jams but it's not trivial. It's possible to place your cams right where the best jams are so consider that too. Quote
Sherri Posted July 2, 2007 Posted July 2, 2007 Catbird - Any more specific beta for newer leaders considering this route, or just protect, protect, protect (competently)? I've been eyeing it all season, but so far have limited my trad leading to single pitches. And, having had some adventures at Leavenworth this year I've learned that beta from experienced climbers helps fill in the gaps not addressed by the various guidebooks... Thank you, Saragrace Saragrace, This was my first multipitch lead, too, this spring. Two years earlier it was the first multipitch climb I had done(as part of a climbing course with a guide) and to come back to lead it myself two years later was rewarding and fun. In addition to the advice gleaned from here, I found it helpful to carry a copy of this beta printed out from Summitpost.org. "Overview This route is a nice moderate climb featuring solid rock, climbing, with some great variations. The route as described below includes the Cocaine Connection start which adds more length and variety to the climb. Also, I have described the right handcrack variation on the final pitch which is nicer than the standard 5.6 fingercrack. Approach Drive 6.5 miles down Icicle Creek Road to the base of a large buttress on the west side of the street. Park on the street and hike up the trail along the south side of the buttress. Move up until near the base of some easy looking cracks or a bolted slab. Route Description Pitch #1- 5.7 - Start on the low angled but smooth clean slab carefully working your way up clipping 2 bolts until exiting left into a low 5th class crack system. Follow this up the buttress and belay where feasible. Make it as long as possible (190 foot is good). Pitch #2 - 5.5 - Keep moving up the buttress aiming for the obvious chimney above. The climbing is a mix of 4th to mid fifth class cracks and slabs. Keep moving up until a good sized ledge appears about 20 feet below the entrance to the chimney. Belay here. (125 feet) Pitch #3 - 5.5 - Work your way up the chimney using protection deep in the base. Climbing is interesting and fun with some good stems and jambs. Exit out of the chimney and belay at the ledge below the obvious steeper triple cracks. (90 feet) Pitch #4 - 5.7 - Now for the good stuff. Move up to the ledge to the base of the right crack. Jamb the nice handcrack until at the base of the lieback flake. Jamb and lieback this flake using the crack on the right for feet for 40 feet until below a bulge. Pull up over the bulge (mid 5th no pro) and belay from the tree on top. (190 feet). Down - Walk off the backside of the formation towards a tree on the south side. Just past the tree you will notice 2 cairns. This is the start of the class 2 / 3 trail back to the car. Cocaine Crack For a much more enriching experience on the 3rd pitch, I highly recommend climbing this fabulous fingercrack for your third pitch. On pitch #2, start traversing south (left immediately off the belay) until at the base of the obvious fingercrack and belay here instead. Climb the superb fingercrack straight up then pick up the second crack angling up and to the right on the steeper section. Place your gear, then crank hard through 20 feet of sustained fingerjambing to a good rest below the bulge. Traverse either left or right and establish a belay at the same spot as you would for the top pitch of R&D. BETA: The steep right angling crack is obviously the crux. The best way to climb it is with your left foot twisted sideways jambed into the crack and your right foot smeared on the face. If you try to put both feet in the crack you will probably loose your balance and fall. It is much harder like that. This is the most fun pitch of rock I have ever climbed! Essential Gear 60 or 70 meter rope Cams .4 to 3.5 inches Set of Nuts Slings 2 Quickdraws (2 sets of finger size cams are recommended if tackling Cocaine Crack)" Also helped to have a very supportive and encouraging partner! Thanks again, High on Rock! Quote
saragrace Posted July 2, 2007 Posted July 2, 2007 This is great - thank you so much for the info. -Saragrace. Quote
Otto Posted July 2, 2007 Posted July 2, 2007 You get even more good 5.8 crack climbing by starting from the road with The Arch and then Forking Crack. Quote
selkirk Posted July 2, 2007 Posted July 2, 2007 I really wouldn't recommend the Arch for one of your first trad leads though. Haven't tried Forking Crack so I can't speak to it though. The Arch (while a great climb at 5.8) is a bit tenous, requires primarily small cam's, and due to the traversing nature they tend to get pulled sideways and can walk a bit. I'm a big fan of protect early, protect often, and always protect any potential ground fall (or ledge fall mid-pitch). That said, I often look like I'm carrying a freakin aid rack, but have managed not to injure myself yet, and have never been in a situation where I had to run it out to the anchors due to lack of gear. (knocking on nearest wood). Quote
catbirdseat Posted July 2, 2007 Posted July 2, 2007 I'd heard a rumor that the belay tree at the top has died. As I remember, it was gradually losing soil at its base from people walking there. Anyone know anything about that? Quote
rbwen Posted July 3, 2007 Posted July 3, 2007 This from today's Wenatchee World... http://www.wenworld.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20070702/NEWS04/707020350/1001 Rock climbing accident sends one to hospital Posted July 02, 2007 LEAVENWORTH -- A 60-year-old man rock climbing Icicle Buttress near Leavenworth fell about 14 feet Saturday afternoon, according to Chelan County Sheriff Mike Harum. Richard Kennedy of Olympia was listed in satisfactory condition this morning at Central Washington Hospital. According to Harum, Kennedy may have suffered a broken ankle and rib injuries. Technical climbers were able to reach the man within two hours after the fall was reported at 3:09 p.m., with the man on a ledge about 100 feet from the top of the Icicle Buttress rock formation. Rescuers began lowering the man down the rock formation at about 6:20 p.m., and by 7:16 p.m. the man was headed to the hospital. Harum said rescuers had to lower him about 800 feet. The man fell after not affixing rope to an anchor point on the formation, though an upper anchor was roped to the formation elsewhere, keeping the man from tumbling farther down, Harum said. Harum said climbers from the sheriff's office High Angle Rope Rescue Team and the volunteer Chelan County Mountain Rescue groups helped the injured man down the formation. -- Jaime Adame, World staff rbwen Quote
catbirdseat Posted July 3, 2007 Posted July 3, 2007 The man fell after not affixing rope to an anchor point on the formation, though an upper anchor was roped to the formation elsewhere, keeping the man from tumbling farther down, Harum said.This is a bit cryptic, but it seems to imply that he fell on the belay. Quote
whirlwind Posted July 3, 2007 Posted July 3, 2007 media.. "upper anchor" could very well be a piece of pro, and or the actual anchor Quote
rbwen Posted July 3, 2007 Posted July 3, 2007 And this from Wenatchee radio station KPQ... http://www.kpq.com/cgi/benews/be_news.cgi?show=article;articlenum=2135 A man who was hurt Saturday afternoon while rock climbing in the Leavenworth area was listed in satisfactory conditoin Sunday at Central Washington Hospital in Wenatchee. The Chelan County Sheriff's reports that 61 year old Richard Kennedy was climbing on the Icicle Buttress when he fell about 20 feet onto a ledge. The Chelan County Mountain Rescue and the Sheriffs Office's High Angle Rope Rescue teams helped get Kennedy down safely. Quote
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