TeleRoss Posted June 16, 2007 Posted June 16, 2007 (edited) Greetings from sunny Yosemite Valley. Well I'm half way through my month long climbing binge so I thought I'd send some stoke on up your way. Hows the weather up there? It's hot as fuck here, but the climbing has been spectacular. so far we've climbed Dogma (p1-10 11c) Epinephrine (IV 5.9) Serenity Crack (3p 10d) Gripper (2p 10b) New Dimensions (4p 11a) Central Pillar of Frenzy (5p 5.9) Higher Cathedral Spire (5p 5.9) Reid's Direct (3p 10a) Steck-Salathe (V 10a) Ho Chi Minh Trail (V 5.11) Gold Wall (p1-5 5.10c A0) Half Dome Regular NW Face (VI 5.10d C1) Fairview Dome, Lucky Streaks (6p 5.10d) Drug Dome, Oz, (5p 5.10d) Incredible Hulk, Positive Vibrations (V 5.11) Longs Peak, The Diamond, Black Dagger (IV 5.11) Steph and I stopped first at Red Rocks and hopped on Dogma...it was a rad climb, but waaayyyy to hot, so we rapped down after 10 pitches. Have to go back and finish that one somtime. Next day we chose shade and did Epinephrine. 15 pitches of awesome chimney, crack and face climbing. After Epinephrine we drove towards the Valley, spent the night along the road and arrived in Yosemite the next day. We got settled in Camp 4 then went over and did Serenity Crack. Next day was Gripper and New Dimensions at Arch Rock. Next day we did Central Pillar of Frenzy, Higher Cathedral Spire and Reid's Direct. Took a day off for some before doing the Steck-Salathe on Sentinel. Spectacular climbing...don't fear the offwidths! "The Narrows" may be one of the coolest pitches anywere. Another day off, more :brew: by the river Ho Chi Minh Trail on Middle Cathedral, awesome route! 20pitches of varied 5.7-5.11, mostly cracks, but plenty of face climbing, even a couple of roofs thrown in. Lots of 5.10. Follows first 6 pitches of the DNB, where DNB goes left HoChiMinh goes straight up the crest of the buttress...RAD! Took a day off for yet more :brew:, then it was time for the NW Face of Half Dome Wow! What a route! Hiked the long way in and spent the night below the face with a few other parties. A couple had fixed lines to p3. We worked out a starting order based on peoples expectations. A Japanese party of 2 left super early, around 4ish jugging their lines. We started climbing around 5, and behind us were a couple of Brits trying for one day, and then a couple of guys aiding. We passed the Japanese party at pitch 7, and made the top at 7pm. Long day 14 hours of climbing...but for my first real aiding, and Stephs first time jugging I think we did ok. Well, we're heading up to Toulomne for a day up on Fairview Dome tomorrow. Then Monday my man Eric Wehrly is coming on down, and were going to hit up Positive Vibrations on the Incredible Hulk Stoke! :rawk: then about another week and a half on the road! Hopefully by July it'll all be dried out up there in the PNW! Cheers Ross ps I totally wussed out and crawled a short section across Thank God Ledge, just after Steph took the photo here's the link to the Positive Vibrations pics: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/696926/page/1#Post696926 Edited June 27, 2007 by TeleRoss Quote
Off_White Posted June 16, 2007 Posted June 16, 2007 I totally wussed out and crawled a short section across Thank God Ledge, just after Steph took the photo I was wondering about that, you looked so tall and proud out there. Almost everyone winds up doing some level of grovel on that pitch. You do know that people used to spend two nights on that route? Splendid job. In fact, stellar trip all around, thanks for sharing pics and stories, they're very welcome on an intermittently soggy Saturday. Quote
high_on_rock Posted June 16, 2007 Posted June 16, 2007 That has to be the best TR I have read yet. Wow do I wish I were you! Eric Quote
David Trippett Posted June 17, 2007 Posted June 17, 2007 Awesome you guys!! What's the postage on all that sending??! :rawk: Great Stoke. BTW the weather is amazing here....if you're a fish Quote
DirtyHarry Posted June 17, 2007 Posted June 17, 2007 Get a job hippy! Ha. Nice work Ross and Steph. Your trip really doesn't suck. Quote
mythosgrl Posted June 17, 2007 Posted June 17, 2007 Really enjoyed the last half of your pics. That rock looks amazing!! Is it weird that i just wanted to shove my hand in those cracks? Anyway... that's on my list of "to do's" now! Quote
pope Posted June 17, 2007 Posted June 17, 2007 Thanks a lot, pal. Now I want to quit my job and go climbing for a year. Great TR...you two get it done! Enjoyed the photography. A cyber-brew to you! Quote
archenemy Posted June 17, 2007 Posted June 17, 2007 Sweet TR! What a trip--lucky dogs! Looking forward to the next installment. Quote
skykilo Posted June 17, 2007 Posted June 17, 2007 Not surprised that you're getting after it. Nice photos. Quote
Lisa_D Posted June 18, 2007 Posted June 18, 2007 looks amazing. Way to go! Steph, I look forward to seeing you when you get back and hearing more about your climbing!! Quote
AllYouCanEat Posted June 18, 2007 Posted June 18, 2007 (edited) Awesome Ross!!! I wish I could climb Edited June 18, 2007 by AllYouCanEat Quote
AlpineK Posted June 18, 2007 Posted June 18, 2007 I totally wussed out and crawled a short section across Thank God Ledge, just after Steph took the photo I was wondering about that, you looked so tall and proud out there. Almost everyone winds up doing some level of grovel on that pitch. You do know that people used to spend two nights on that route? Splendid job. Way to go I too crawled across that ledge. I'm glad to hear that even now I'm not the only person who had problems with that traverse. I've done a number of those climbs you guys just did, but I sure as hell didn't do it in one trip. :tup: Quote
TeleRoss Posted June 23, 2007 Author Posted June 23, 2007 Well, we moved on out of the Valley....here's some more pics of our wanderings and clamberings. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/696926/page/1#Post696926 cheers Quote
TeleRoss Posted June 27, 2007 Author Posted June 27, 2007 Well, the last few days of our time on the road are winding down. We've been lounging in Lyons Colorado for about a week. Been doing a lot of tubing on the river, went for a long hike, cragged a bit up at Lumpy, and partied in Boulder. Yesterday, Lizzy and I were finally motivated to climb, so we got up early and headed up to the Diamond. We climbed Black Dagger, an awesome line following splitter granite cracks into an easy chimney capped by a wild roof...great stuff. The Diamond is indeed pretty darn rad! Quote
JosephH Posted June 27, 2007 Posted June 27, 2007 Might as well stop by the Black and do something while you're both there being bad ass and all. Also sounds like you've got a good woman worth hanging on to as well. Quote
TeleRoss Posted June 27, 2007 Author Posted June 27, 2007 Yeah, I want to head to the Black for sure! Think it's a bit hot down there right now...but I'll be back in the fall....definitely. here's the link to the Colorado stoke: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/698090/page/1#Post698090 cheers Ross :brew: Quote
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