Free Solo'rs - on the increase?

[dmuja]

 

At the crags, it seems like there are more and more people climbing routes ropeless, and climbing "relatively" serious (ok, "+5.9") stuff to boot. Yes I know free soloing is as old as climbing itself, but Im just noticing a trend I think. Anyone else think so? (I don't mean bouldering btw)

 

So, is this where climbing is headed? Will using ropes and pro soon be looked at the way many presently view aid gear & style?

 

Just curious what others think..

[SemoreJugs]

Yeah man, everyone's doing it.

 

Get with the program already. My 8 year old free-solos Thin Fingers in his flip-flops fer chrissake.

 

Mammut just announced that they will discontinue making ropes by 2011...

[sill]

In some areas you see it more than others. In the PNW I rarely saw people free soloing, athough in Icicle Creek Canyon you see it more than other areas. A lot depends on the rock quality and things such as the availability of a walk off. In places like Lumpy Ridge in Colorado it's common to get passed by a soloist if you're climbing a route under 5.10. You're probably just trying to troll but to think it's where climbing is headed is rediculous

[G-spotter]

Free soloing is NOT aid

[JensHolsten]

I definetely would say that free soloing is a trend that is on the rise. Of course it "is as old as climbing itself", but it does seem that its glorification in climbing publications and climbing circles has contributed to a rise in popularity. I soloed nearly every day for five straight years and never thought a thing of it. I was not doing it to be rad, but just loved the experiance so much. Alone or with freinds, soloing was a part of life, and some of my best experiances climbing have been ropeless. Then, my main partner and one of my best freinds (James Lucas) hucked off the top of the North Overhang one morning. It was just another morning warm up for James, but it almost ended his life. I remember the somber mood, fear, and alarm that gripped our group of monkeys. No one soloed for quite a while. Some have returned to the pursuit, others have not, but everyone thinks more about what they are risking now. It blows James had to fall off the rock that day, but it saved lives I think (mine included). One of us would have botched it...also of note, I returned to the North Overhang one year after the accident with James. We climbed the route (with a rope of course) and crushed his demon. Two years later James is climbing harder than he ever has and has is eyes set on his dream climbs again...absolutely badass.

[high_on_rock]

The level of focus when free soloing is amazing, and I cannot find it anywhere. I only do it on climb well within my ability that I feel are dialed in, and I usually have a rope and gear with me incase I lose the feel and decide to hook in.

 

I don't recommend it to anyone, but I cannot get that level of focus or attention anywhere else. someday it may "bite" me, but what an experience.

[ivan]

all the cool people solo

[jjd]

having a partner is better

[mattp]

Focus? Maybe so, but I think it is mostly just plain scary. I used to do a fair amount of solo climbing - not hard rock climbing, but alpine mountain climbing and easy rock routes - but it seemed I usually found a way to scare myself and I eventually decided it just wasn't worth it.

[ivan]

having a partner is better

is that a freudian thing?

 

soloing is better than climbing w/ a partner who's lame - or not climbing at all, b/c you can't find a partner

 

soloing things that are easily w/n my limit is incredible fun - soloing things out of my comfort zone is mind-boogling terrifing and not something i ever do

[111]

The level of focus when free soloing is amazing, and I cannot find it anywhere.

 

I don't recommend it to anyone, but I cannot get that level of focus or attention anywhere else. .

 

Try Highlining. It is a religious experience.

[catbirdseat]

I definetely would say that free soloing is a trend that is on the rise. Of course it "is as old as climbing itself", but it does seem that its glorification in climbing publications and climbing circles has contributed to a rise in popularity. I soloed nearly every day for five straight years and never thought a thing of it. I was not doing it to be rad, but just loved the experiance so much. Alone or with freinds, soloing was a part of life, and some of my best experiances climbing have been ropeless. Then, my main partner and one of my best freinds (James Lucas) hucked off the top of the North Overhang one morning. It was just another morning warm up for James, but it almost ended his life. I remember the somber mood, fear, and alarm that gripped our group of monkeys. No one soloed for quite a while. Some have returned to the pursuit, others have not, but everyone thinks more about what they are risking now. It blows James had to fall off the rock that day, but it saved lives I think (mine included). One of us would have botched it...also of note, I returned to the North Overhang one year after the accident with James. We climbed the route (with a rope of course) and crushed his demon. Two years later James is climbing harder than he ever has and has is eyes set on his dream climbs again...absolutely badass.

Small world. I met James Lucas one year after the accident, while he was still limping around and just starting to climb again. I'd heard that he was free soloing 5.9's when he could barely climb 5.10b at the time. Is that true?

[bigwallben]

I definetely would say that free soloing is a trend that is on the rise. Of course it "is as old as climbing itself", but it does seem that its glorification in climbing publications and climbing circles has contributed to a rise in popularity. I soloed nearly every day for five straight years and never thought a thing of it. I was not doing it to be rad, but just loved the experiance so much. Alone or with freinds, soloing was a part of life, and some of my best experiances climbing have been ropeless. Then, my main partner and one of my best freinds (James Lucas) hucked off the top of the North Overhang one morning. It was just another morning warm up for James, but it almost ended his life. I remember the somber mood, fear, and alarm that gripped our group of monkeys. No one soloed for quite a while. Some have returned to the pursuit, others have not, but everyone thinks more about what they are risking now. It blows James had to fall off the rock that day, but it saved lives I think (mine included). One of us would have botched it...also of note, I returned to the North Overhang one year after the accident with James. We climbed the route (with a rope of course) and crushed his demon. Two years later James is climbing harder than he ever has and has is eyes set on his dream climbs again...absolutely badass.

Small world. I met James Lucas one year after the accident, while he was still limping around and just starting to climb again. I'd heard that he was free soloing 5.9's when he could barely climb 5.10b at the time. Is that true?

No.

[high_on_rock]

I would rather solo myself than climb a chossy partner. Did I say that right?

edit: But never forget the fun of soloing with a partner!

Edited May 30, 2007 by high_on_rock

[Bill_Simpkins]

Bouldering is on the rise, as is climbing overall, thus freesoloing.

[sill]

I'd heard that he was free soloing 5.9's when he could barely climb 5.10b at the time. Is that true?

 

Yeah you heard wrong about that chief. I remember him climbnig really hard before his accident and I see him climbing really hard now.

[RuMR]

catturdeat...

 

He may have told you he was only climbing 10b (being a humble sort), but that wouldn't be any "10b" in your world...

 

imagine just about any "10b" in the valley under any circumstances...go ahead, pick an ow, a slab, a knobfest, an R or an X or a splitter or a flare, maybe a loose one with pre1975 1/4" spinners...you're choice...now HIKE it after a ton of other pitches that day...that is what James meant...oh, and sieging some stupid exit 30-whatever route and figgering out the moves on a toprope isn't "climbing" 10b, now is it??

 

now, having said all that...what Jens said was correct and i figured something like this was gonna happen to one of that group sooner or later...

Edited May 30, 2007 by RuMR

[Kat_Roslyn]

I definetely would say that free soloing is a trend that is on the rise. Of course it "is as old as climbing itself", but it does seem that its glorification in climbing publications and climbing circles has contributed to a rise in popularity. I soloed nearly every day for five straight years and never thought a thing of it. I was not doing it to be rad, but just loved the experiance so much. Alone or with freinds, soloing was a part of life, and some of my best experiances climbing have been ropeless. Then, my main partner and one of my best freinds (James Lucas) hucked off the top of the North Overhang one morning. It was just another morning warm up for James, but it almost ended his life. I remember the somber mood, fear, and alarm that gripped our group of monkeys. No one soloed for quite a while. Some have returned to the pursuit, others have not, but everyone thinks more about what they are risking now. It blows James had to fall off the rock that day, but it saved lives I think (mine included). One of us would have botched it...also of note, I returned to the North Overhang one year after the accident with James. We climbed the route (with a rope of course) and crushed his demon. Two years later James is climbing harder than he ever has and has is eyes set on his dream climbs again...absolutely badass.

 

Wow.

I am sorry he had to experience that. He must be super strong to come back and overcome his injuries he probably lives with and keep doing what makes him feel good. That takes courage.

[pink]

does wacking off count?

[Jamin]

Looks like I am not alone. I have done a few free solos up to 5.2-3ish. I couldn't imagine doing anything that was harder, but once I become more comfortable on the rock, I will try harder stuff.

 

I generally climb solo whenever I cannot find a partner. It is way better than not climbing at all

[high_on_rock]

To me, the slow thoughtful meaningful solo on a rock is far more safe than flying down the hill in reckless abandon, which is the sport of Mt. Biking. Mt. Bikers are crazy reckless death-wishers in my book.

merely mho

 

[Kat_Roslyn]

Yeah, Dan Osman soloed mad, I feel like I am like him, when I need a rush I just drive my car until the gas light comes on! It is intense, you never know when you could run out!

[olyclimber]

Yeah, for an added rush I do that on the West Seattle Freeway or the Viaduct. Drive in the middle lane, so if you run out you're really stuck. I'm pretty sure I get better miles per gallon when I'm doing this, an occasionally I black out from excitement.