Newhalem Beta

[jasonsalvo]

Does anyone know anything about bouldering or quick roadside sport climbing in Newhalem. I was thinking of heading up to Washington Pass for some touring and thought a few hours spent climbing might make for a perfect weekend. I have found a neat interactive quicktime map, but as far as telling me how to get to the climbs or where or whether there is any bouldering, it is less than ideal.

 

Thanks

[snugtop]

Newhalen is like a creepy horror movie town full of zombies. Plus, it's always raining there.

 

Drive east and head to Mazama.

[jasonsalvo]

Conveniently, fighting off zombies is a hobby of mine. And it's convenience I'm after. I want somewhere that is on the way to Washington Pass where I can stop for a few hours on my way up or home, depending on when I leave/leave. So, that being said, any beta, alpha, omega, or dare I say it, omicron?

[EWolfe]

Send a PM to Montana Pup or MtnFreak, they both know where it is.

[G-spotter]

And Distel32 has plenty of photos of it.

[Off_White]

It's not that hush hush, you will find this link to the online interactive guide in the RC Links thread stickied at the top of the Rock Climbing Forum. Sounds like development is on hold while a plan is negotiated with the Park Service, but climbing existing routes should be fine.

 

If you go, take pictures and tell us stories.

[StreetBoss]

Great place, I put a few routes up there. Have fun.

 

[EWolfe]

Great place, I put a few routes up there. Have fun

 

Thanks for the cryptic, non-informational "I am a badass FA Hero, but no beta for you" mentality.

[drater]

 

Thanks for the cryptic, non-informational "I am a badass FA Hero, but no beta for you" mentality.

 

Not Newhalem.

 

 

[jonah]

Best sportclimbing in Washington - as far as potential, anyway - the online guide will get you set up just fine.

[RuMR]

best sportclimbing in washington?? Oh you must be talking about bolts every 2.5 feet...

[StreetBoss]

Great place, I put a few routes up there. Have fun

 

Thanks for the cryptic, non-informational "I am a badass FA Hero, but no beta for you" mentality.

 

Hey douchebag - Get a life.

[G-spotter]

 

That crimper over the lip looks plenty chipped to me.

[drater]

Rock scar.

 

And there's no hold there.

 

It's all about teh arete anyway, that flake problem is easy party warmup choss.

 

The two lines directly right of the arete are plenty stout and prime as well.

[klar404]

That crimper over the lip looks plenty chipped to me.

+1

[kix]

-2

[EWolfe]

mmmm....bacon by button....

[sparkytheflash]

i'm not sure why nobody is giving this guy specific instructions on how to get there but i guess i will do my best to help this guy out.

 

so on your way out of new halem take the last right. there is a little parking area next to a tree just off the side of the road and right next to the skagit river. across the river you'll see a large seattle city light power building. as you leave the parking walk east along hwy 20 for about 500 feet or so and you'll see some moss covered boulders just off the north side of the road. hike up through those and you'll be at the wall in 2 min. you should be able to see the wall from the road through the trees if you look hard enough.

 

there should be a one page topo guide at the new halem ranger station that you might be able to get a photo copy of. i actually knew some the locals up there and i was able to borrow the original. Ask for ranger andrew if he's working i've climbed with him there before.

 

the park doesn't seem to have a problem with climbing there, but there is a moratorium on route setting. so hopefully that wasn't your plan. you'll see why when you get there, i got the impression that some, not all, but some routes were poorly planned out. and there was another route futher to the right that had bolts every 2 1/2 to 3 feet. i think it is these issues that concern the parks department. it would be nice to see some of the more legendary and respected setters of washington(ie. burdo, windham, or others) negotiate with the parks department and take the area under their wing and set it up right like the many other areas around the state. jonah is right it has awsome potential. (no offense intended to those who have put up quality well bolted routes at new halem.)

 

if you have any other questions you can pm me. i have good sources that work and live at the north cascade institute on diablo lake that climb there all the time. i've been there twice, which is not as much as i would like. hopefully more later this season. good luck.

 

dave

[Jens]

Well put sparky.

Some people bash on the place but their is no denying it certainly has amazing potential. Plus it already has some great routes. The square mile around the routes could potentially be a hotbed of WA climbing.

I've certainly got my eye on one classic line if they ever lift the moratorium!

 

[Rad]

While there, pick up the phone at Newhalem and call your 206 friends for free. Anyone know what's up with that?

[sparkytheflash]

i think it something to do with seattle city light. i didn't realize it was all over newhalem and probably diablo as well that it was like that. the north cascade institute on diablo lake has 206 numbers but i thought that the institute worked something out with the phone company since they do business all over western washington but now i see that is not the case. it has to be the seattle city light factor.

 

dave

[AlpineK]

All the power Seattle gets comes from there. I believe the city built the town when they were building the dams.

[jasonsalvo]

Sparky -

 

thanks for the info, that's exactly what I was looking for. If I go up there this weekend (forecast for S. Cascades looks better at this point...) I promise to take pictures.

[chris]

Just for the record, its my understanding that bouldering developement - especially the "improvement" of landing zones, is what caught the NCPS attention in Newhalem. Until they finish a new management plan that includes climbing/bouldering along the National Recreation Area corridor, there is a voluntary stop on development.

As far as I know, the online link that Off White provided is still the best resource. Have fun!

[mattp]

Just for the record, its my understanding that bouldering developement - especially the "improvement" of landing zones, is what caught the NCPS attention in Newhalem.

 

That's what I heard, too. The rangers did, however, ask that all climbing development stop until they can fashion a climbing management plan or similar document/guidelines.