ElisifHarro Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Trip: Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir Date: 5/12/2007 Trip Report: As John stated in his TR of the NW face John, Daniel, and myself rolled out of PDX around 0800 on May 11th. Following some interrupted sleep we met up with AlpineDave in Leavenworth and headed for the trailhead, but not before we had an elusive sighting of "the Alpine Bavarian" during our yardsale. We opted to leave the slowshoes in the car and despite the occasional elephant holing didn't regret that decision. After a quick 4 hours we reached our destination. Pitched the tents, got some zzzs and started our climb at 0330. Arrived at the base of the climbs at 0600 and started climbing with a beautiful sunrise as a backdrop After crossing the schrund I started climbing up to the ice steps and Daniel followed. We ended up simul-climbing the two ice steps that consisted of short (~10ft) good ice. Above the steps we simul'd up a large snow slope, which warmed by the sun made for some pretty slow going. Reaching the ridge we dropped down to the South side for the first class three pitch. We then climbed a blocky pitch straight up the ridge that was 5th class. Following this pitch the guide says to traverse ledges across the North Face. I guess Daniel and I need a challenge because we think this is where we got off route heading to far up the ridge instead of traversing. This faux pas led to the stoke that John posted in his TR on what was our 3rd pitch, which consisted of heading up the ridge with 5fun mixed climbing. Daniel did a stellar job leading this pitch while John and Dave snapped photos from the summit. At the top of this pitch we found our route again and finished the climb with two pitches of fun 5.6 mixed climbing Much thanks to John and Dave for picture taking, encouragement/beta shouting, and entertainment from the top while they patiently waited for us to meet them. They are both great partners that truly made this climb a wonderful experience even with the post-freeze dried food smell emanating from one who we will not name. Summit prune anyone? Seriously though, both are great, supportive, reliable partners whom one should also consider bribing to climb with Back down the Sherpa Glacier brought us back to our tents and the subsequent hike out with thoughts of double heli bacon cheeseburgers dancing in our heads Gear Notes: Cams .5-2 1/2 set of nuts 6 adjustable draws rabbit runner 70m rope Approach Notes: Same as John's report in the NW Face TR. No slowshoes needed for our approach. See his pic of the two stumps for where to turn off. Last but not least, the gate is open! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Summit prune anyone? Nice TR girl! Team Harro sucka! Stumptown! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Hot damn you folks did some great TR'S on that mountian. Tag team picture taken rules! That shit is schweet! Thanks for sharing it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 whoa, more like summit ham! John- why do you look like an oompaloompa bro? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Lovely and inspiring photos. Looks like you took a harder variation at the top for sure... Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Bad ass boys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Bad ass boys! ...and girl(s)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 Good show :tup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirwoofalot Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 Very nice job by all! both boys and girls. I feel better now knowing that it is normal to have double bacon cheese burger craving on the way out. But summit prunes? Stop it there. Enough said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 You are giving Dave a big head. Everybody knows he's gonna start charging now. Way to go. Wankers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scheissami Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 Nice work....those are some mighty fine pics--pretty sweet to get the second party perspective. Gotta love the Alpine Bavarian; instead of cheeseburgers you should check out some delish authentic Kraut food at Uli's Keller in the center of town. Yum! How long do you think the route conditions will hold up? I've not been to Stuart yet and haven't been following the area's weather, but if it's as warm as elsewhere I suspect stuff will start crumbling soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 Erik Even if this warm weather continues SGC generally stays in until the 1st or 2nd week of June... what usually happens is the schrud generally gets too large to bypass before the route actually melts out (though it might be an option to access the couloir from the rock on either side if the schrund is too big). If you do go in and this warm weather continues just make it a point to start extra extra early to make sure you are in/climbing the couloir well before first light. The upper snowfield catches morning sun and quickly turns into a post hole session in the sun. Check and see what time the sun rises before you go and adjust you start time to ensure you are well up the couloir before the sun rises. Generally first light is an hour before the listed sunrise time. Finding the couloir even in the dark is easy to do so basically there is no such thing as "too early" for SGC. Hope this helps. Shoot me a pm if you have any other beta questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielHarro Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 Post deleted by DanielHarro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink_chalk Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 nice!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 Don't hate me because I'm beautiful 5 bucks says I'm farting in that photo :laf: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElisifHarro Posted May 18, 2007 Author Share Posted May 18, 2007 whoa, more like summit ham! John- why do you look like an oompaloompa bro? I think he was trying to be a monkey....I could be wrong though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElisifHarro Posted May 18, 2007 Author Share Posted May 18, 2007 Good thing we don't have smellavision Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElisifHarro Posted May 18, 2007 Author Share Posted May 18, 2007 Bad ass boys! ...and girl(s)! heck yeah!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scheissami Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 Thanks, John Now all I need is time off work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 (though it might be an option to access the couloir from the rock on either side if the schrund is too big). I've done this on the right side, there's even a ring angle pin hidden in the rock that gets covered by the schrund, I imagined it was placed by Helmy Beckey. Problem is that when that bypass is needed, things have melted out more up high, and we had a discouraging volley of briefcases through the narrow throat that led me to climb some hideous stone on the right side of the neck. Not recommended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
recess Posted May 19, 2007 Share Posted May 19, 2007 Great trip Report Elisif. We all miss you here down in T-town. Don't be a stranger, stop by and say hello. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevino Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 Any special beta for the rock pitches? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielHarro Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 Ask Mr. Frieh, hahahah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 Thinking about this route for the coming weekend but wondering about freezing levels...the best I can seem to come up with is still above freezing for Saturday night.... See WEATHER LINK Common sense says that this route is a good one to avoid when it's too warm....any expert opinions out there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 GB: Freezing levels in the spring rarely dip below the elevation of the start of the route... it will be fine. Just start super early... the warm weather of recent has settled any avy concerns out so you only risk a post hole session. See my earlier post in this thread for other beta. Looking at the weather I would be more concerned about the storm rolling through. Kevino: If by special beta you mean a description Jim Nelson's is good. Additionally look at any TRs for SGC and look at (even better print them off) any pics. You can also look at West Ridge TRs but keep in mind you won't start the ridge until after Long John's Tower. Great beta for west ridge: http://tumtum.com/climbing/routes/02-07-19-StuartWRidge.txt Soon me a PM/email if you have other questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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