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ElisifHarro

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Everything posted by ElisifHarro

  1. Dane- I used the 45L worksac in AK last spring and loved it!! Great fit I am 5' 10" and 175lbs... I bought the Medium size. It has everything you need and nothing you don't. I was surprised how comfortable it carried when fully loaded or trimmed down for the route. I would not hesitate to buy the Cilo Gear pack. I loved my 45L so much that I bought the 30L this year and have used it climbing for about 14 days and I think its my new favorite pack. Again Cilo Gear has treated me very well and helped me out with some small custom things, I have been super stoked on their customer service. I owned an older version Andanista and I was not impressed at all with the fit of the pack and sold it after two outings.....
  2. No it just gives him a huge wedgie
  3. Hell yeah , I finally went leashless during our last trip to Canmore and Professor Falls...I never realized what I was missing, no more wrist constrictors for me 12 days of ice this season per my calculations
  4. Trip: Cody, WY - High on Boulder, Mean Green, Moratorium Date: 3/29/2008 Trip Report: Daniel and I took a mini-break from Oregon for a little ice binge. We started out with a warmup day on the 27th in Hyalite with Daniel's twin brother Mark. The road was plowed and very easy to drive with a 4-wheel drive vehicle. We headed up to Mummy Cooler II and the Scepter. It was cold that day, -15F in the morning! We started out on the Mummy and all immediately lost feeling in his hands The Mummy was just as fat as at the beginning of the season, and only slightly wet on the far left side. We intended to head over to the scepter next, except a group of two was on it and the leader did not look like he was having any fun in the cold temps. Instead of waiting we headed over to Feeding the Cat and played around on that, not as big as last year, but really just covered with a lot of snow, still a fun time though. The Matrix was the same story. Mummy Cooler II Cold "I can't feel my hands" The next day the intention was California Ice in East Rosebud Canyon. Unfortunately we got there and the 30% chance of precip actually meant puking snow. Since the climb tops out close to 10,000 feet (see John Frieh's earlier TR) we opted to save this climb for another day. Definitely a climb that everyone should try to do though! Bummer We instead headed to Cody, WY. After a brief stop at Core Mt. Sports and a chat with Aaron Mulkey (thanks!) we headed up the South Fork, which has experienced more snow this year than Aaron has ever seen in the many years he has been climbing there! We shot over to High on Boulder. Two great ice bridges avoided wet feet in the river. The snow was beautiful but definitely made for a more difficult approach/snow wallow up to the cimbs. After about an hour we reached the climb. I got super confused and ended up linking P1 and the majority of P2 (WI4). For future reference, a 70m rope can make it to the top of the large ledge of P2 if one builds an anchor in the ice rather than making it up to the chains. We then climbed "the wide curtain of rolling ice to the top of the main flow". We opted to avoid the quarter mile of hiking to the 20m WI3+ due to the guaranteed super wallow to get there. High on Boulder The next day was another South Fork classic, Mean Green WI5 (according to Winter Dance, one of the top ten routes in North America). This approach was also ~1hr snow slog and the short walks between pitches definitely had another element of snow rarely seen in Cody. The first three pitches were fat and enjoyable. The fourth crux pitch is a must do pillar and in about 4+, maybe 5 conditions...WIfun. We avoided the last wide ice pitches, although they looked good, the snow looked even deeper (noticing a trend here ) Rappel the route. P1 of Mean Green Crux pitch Sussing it out Snowy The final day of our tour was the Moratium WI4+ (which only forms every three to five years)! That day was the first day the weather started to turn and it was snowing quite heavily that day. We got up to the first pitch, historically notoriously thin. It looked quite straightforward, thin but protectable, so I decided to push myself on lead (My hardest has been a 3+ since this trip).I headed up and got about 15 meters into the climb when very frequent, very heavy spindrift began to fall, including a quite heavy snowfall coming down on me at one point in time. I burned through a lot of screws at the bottom because I was freaking myself out, only to realize that the top half didn't ramp off as it appeared from the bottom. Oh well P2 was an equally long fun pitch. It was a great climb! Not all approaches can be bluebird... or easy.... Hmmmm.... Pitch 1 Moratorium Tired but content, we called it a week, pulling an all nighter to get home. Oh how it sucks to be back, but a wonderful trip Gear Notes: Resources: Winter Dance by JoJo and Coldfear.com posted by Aaron Mulkey Approach Notes: Typically one hour approaches, with easy starts and short steep sections to the bases of the climbs. Complicated by deep snow this year, but boot packs are helpful Moratium was about a two hour approach
  5. John 7, Team Harro 4....Something tells me you don't mess around with this whole competition thing! Oh well, if I have to be beat, than I'm glad it's by you Nice TR, it looks like you took full advantage of the time you had!
  6. we just got beta from some locals, I guess next time we wont drive past Good Bad & Ugly?? or is that still to far? we saw some other folks parked at GBU, but I guess that does not mean anything.
  7. Trip: Rockies Ice Sampler -Haffner,Ghost,Icefields P. - Haffner Creek, This House of Sky, Weeping Wall Date: 12/5/2007 Trip Report: While parts of Oregon were flooding, Daniel and I finished up with work in Portland on Tuesday morning and headed North. We had originally planned on dropping off our puppy with my parents in Olympia before heading up and over through Spokane, and were chagrined to find out that I5 and pretty much every alternate route besides going through Yakima was shut down. After a bit of a delay and the help of flexible family we were off! Due to our late start we spent the first night in our 4runner in Radium, woke up Wednesday morning and headed to Haffner Creek. We parked in the Marble Canyon lot and hiked the easy approach through the campground and up the creek. Judging from the image, Elisif is not so sure she will fit in with Canadian women Ice at Haffner was climbable to the right and left of a number of mixed routes. It was a fairly warm day comparably to the colder temps this area has been seeing so the ice was fairly wet but still fun to climb. All in all it was a good day of toproping and swinging tools. A view of the left side and mixed climbs in Haffner Daniel leading on the right After Haffner we headed to Canmore and set up shop at the Rocky Mountain Chalets. We were worried because this place was so cheap but were pleasantly surprised to find a clean, spacious condo-style place with three rooms, two bathrooms, a kitchen, and plenty of storage/drying space. It could have easily held 6 or more people and for 60CD it was a steal. Great outside covered hottub too! Any takers for a group road trip? On Thursday it was off to the Ghost to climb This House of Sky. We drove all the way to just below the route and began a fun day of soloing ice step after ice step. Great ice conditions kept smiles on our faces the entire time. The temp. when we left the car was about -10F at 9am, and a majority of the pools were not fully frozen, making for creative and/or very lightly trodden hiking at times to avoid punching through. It cooled down considerably when we got to the ampitheatre and the crux pitch was somehow brittle yet wet making for a dinnerplating shower of a climb, but still exciting nonetheless. We hiked off the right side and had an entertaining time watching each other fall on our asses on the way down! Ice Steps Crux pitch GBU was looking in great shape and the Drip was fat and inspiring. The Good the Bad the Ugly (Sorry about the picture quality, my camera is old and angry it was so cold) View up the Ghost River Finally on Friday we had plans to head to the Icefields Parkway to do Murchison Falls however it was cold!!! We changed our plan and chased the sun to the Weeping Wall and climbed the route to the right of Snivelling Gullies. It ended up being a good choice as the sun made it comfortable if not almost warm! Weeping Wall Elisif Daniel 8x10 glossy We rounded off the day by going to slideshow presentations by Sean Isaacs and Will Gadd, hosted by Barry Blanchard for the Canmore Ice Fest. These guys are not only really strong climbers but also genuinely nice, funny guys. I laughed my ass off hearing their stories. It was good to see you Roger! Ice wall in downtown Canmore for the Icefest For our first time in the Canadian Rockies this was an amazing trip. Even just driving, especially in the parkway with its endless possibilities for climbs made us not want to come home. We'll definitely be back as soon as time allows! Gear Notes: Pretty standard really... Approach Notes: JoJo's book, Waterfall Ice Climbs in the Canadian Rockies is pretty much all you need. If you've never been up to the area it helps to have a map as well.
  8. Definitely Katie! I'll take you up on that offer , unfortunately, though able to do a mean hike at 14 weeks, Reuben has yet to master tying knots....and instead prefers just chewing on them Any other takers?
  9. I totally spaced mentioning earlier, a big thanks to Mr. John Frieh for helping me plan my trip out there in the first place, you rock
  10. If you thought the pics of the waterslide were cool, I finally figured out how to post a video. Check it out, just make sure that you decrease your volume and/or mute it to deafen my annoying screaming when I thought I was going to hit the rocks at the bottom
  11. Trip: Sawtooths - Chockstone Peak - Beggars Can't Be Choosers (FA) Date: 7/19/2007 Trip Report: Summary : Chockstone Peak - Beggars Can't Be Choosers 5.9+ Grade III+ - Nick Dolecek and Elisif Harro - July 19th, 2007 Note: To the best of our knowledge and research this climb is a first ascent. I'm still waiting on hearing back from a few inquiries to cover all of my bases. Feel free to chime in if you've heard anything as well The Route The Trip: A Team Harro planned vacation had to get batched due to Daniel's Fire Academy for the entire month of July. Unfortunately, this left me with either a week's worth of time to either get to know myself really well or divide up the team. I chose the latter and made plans with an old friend from OSU, Nick, to do some climbing in the Sawtooths. I climbed in my trusty Subaru and drove all night to meet Nick in Lowman Wednesday morning. After the requisite gear sorting, we headed to Stanley to catch the boat. The quintessential approach shot: Hiking in we had tentative plans to do a route on Warbonnet. My tank was already pretty empty from being up for 24hrs accompanied with my solo 8hr bender of a drive , so as we stopped for a break during our climb up to Alpine Lake after the trail junction we looked across the Creek gully and thought hmmm...that looks like fun We set up camp at this sweet campsite by the creek and though didn't get any climbing in that day still ended up having quite a good time. dStigz5eLWk The next day we crossed the creek and started our climb at the left base of the granite dome following an easy approach. We started off soloing about 80 meters of fun 4th class climbing and then started our first belay past a large Lodgepole Pine. Some highlights were an exciting face traverse on pitch 2 and some great, clean-granite moderate climbing on pitch 3. Some challenges of this lower dome was just the large amount of cleaning that needed to be done in order to get to the crack systems, which probably is what led to us taking such a long time on this lower section. However, once unearthed there were some amazingly fun features to be had. 4th class Nick on 2nd pitch before 5.9 traverse into dihedral Nick on traverse out of dihedral - 3rd pitch This entire granite dome (1st 5 pitches) could be potentially bypassed by hiking up Chockstone Basin, although I'm not sure how one would get to the base of the West Face of Chockstone Peak this way. (The established routes I have found thus far are on the East Face of Chockstone). Take home message: While a bit meandering in places and requiring some cleaning, I though it was worth it to do this bit To get to the Peak (Pitches 6-9) from the top of the dome we scrambled across a boulder field to the base of the West face. The Goods on pitch 6 Pitch 7 has a fun tunnel Coming around to the East face for the last pitch The last pitch has a fun chimney and then a sweet traverse Yay Summit The descent was about 10 double-rope rappels down the Iowa Gully on the East side, which unfortunately the last two were done in what could definitely be classified as the dark. Luckily, there was a surprising amount of bolts and other asundries to help guide the way. Then a hike, fondly known as bushwacking down Chockstone Basin, back to the creek, and then back to the trail. This alderfest might have been better in the daylight. Oh well, gives me some fun scratches to pick at We slept in the next day, then some more fun in the creek, followed by a hike out to some great beverages and bluegrass music at the lodge and then some hotsprings soaking Who loves Idaho? Gear Notes: We took a set of doubles which we are glad we had for the epic rappel descent. 2 x 60meter ropes are definitely mandatory if you want to get down in a timely manner. RPs are also useful for some of the crack placements. Otherwise, pretty standard, pm me if you want specifics. Approach Notes: Drive Drive Drive. Get gas, go to the bathroom, drink redbull. Repeat x 1. Recommended: Have a driving buddy so you don't start to go crazy on the way back home:crosseye: or deaf from rocking out too much. See the attached topo for specific approach and descent notes.
  12. Leaving from PDX for the Sawtooths sometime between the 17th-24th (dates to be determined). Planning on doing some classics and perhaps finding some new stuff. PM me if you have the dates free.
  13. Leaving from PDX for the Sawtooths sometime between the 17th-24th (dates to be determined). Planning on doing some classics and perhaps finding some new stuff. PM me if you have the dates free.
  14. Looks awesome John and Marcus. I think I'm headed out there sometime between the 17th and 24th, anyone who wants to carpool is welcome/invited. PM me if you're interested. Thanks for the stoke
  15. Trip: Snow Creek Wall - Outer Space Date: 5/17/2007 Trip Report: The stars have been aligning lately and Daniel and I have been quite lucky in getting days off together more or less. To fully take advantage, we headed up to Leavenworth once again, this time with our eyes on Outer Space. I got off work on Wednesday morning, and in our usual pattern Daniel drove while I made up for lost sleep. We arrived in Leavenworth around 2pm and spent the day at the Pearly Gates, a fun cragging area with quite a bit of variety. Off to dinner and then to bed. Elisif leading Cloud Nine (5.9) The next morning we got an early start and headed to the Snow Creek Wall. The hike in took about an hour and we started our climb around 8. We opted for the alternate variation and started the climb with two easy 4th-low5th class pitches to the Two Tree Ledge. Pitch 3 consisted of 5.8 climbing to the exposed 5.9 traverse. The traverse felt quite challenging for it's grade but was a fun challenge nevertheless. Daniel midway up the 5.8 section on pitch 3 The following pitch, pitch 4, was easy climbing, with long runouts on knobs and chickenheads to a short 5.8 crack forming a pedestal. Daniel following up and over the pedestal Pitch 6 is the start of the real fun with a solitary crack with an abundance of knobs up to Library Ledge. Elisif starting out on pitch 6 Pitch 7 is a long pitch ending the climb with some 5.9 moves up a finger crack and then fun cruiser climbing up the crack. This pitch takes the full length of a 70m rope and ends just short of the summit. Daniel starting out in the finger crack Daniel kept me on belay while I scarmbled up easy knobs to the top, only to find company. The descent is a walk off and is well marked by cairns. I was cursing myself that I had forgotten my approach shoes this trip and was forced to slide down the hill on chacos Daniel had to be back at work at 7am on Friday so we decided to call it a short day and head back to the car and back home. Good times in Leavenworth. Great climb, great weather, and good food . Although we feel like we are in either a state of packing, driving, unpacking, and working...the playing in between is well worth it Gear Notes: 70m rope standard rack with doubles of 1-3 (very helpful on the last two pitches). We brought the 4 but didn't need it. full set of nuts 8 adjustable draws Approach Notes: Follow the Snow Creek trail up and then to where it comes back to meet the Creek. Cross the creek on logs and follow the cairns and climbers trail up to the wall.
  16. I think he was trying to be a monkey....I could be wrong though
  17. Trip: Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir Date: 5/12/2007 Trip Report: As John stated in his TR of the NW face John, Daniel, and myself rolled out of PDX around 0800 on May 11th. Following some interrupted sleep we met up with AlpineDave in Leavenworth and headed for the trailhead, but not before we had an elusive sighting of "the Alpine Bavarian" during our yardsale. We opted to leave the slowshoes in the car and despite the occasional elephant holing didn't regret that decision. After a quick 4 hours we reached our destination. Pitched the tents, got some zzzs and started our climb at 0330. Arrived at the base of the climbs at 0600 and started climbing with a beautiful sunrise as a backdrop After crossing the schrund I started climbing up to the ice steps and Daniel followed. We ended up simul-climbing the two ice steps that consisted of short (~10ft) good ice. Above the steps we simul'd up a large snow slope, which warmed by the sun made for some pretty slow going. Reaching the ridge we dropped down to the South side for the first class three pitch. We then climbed a blocky pitch straight up the ridge that was 5th class. Following this pitch the guide says to traverse ledges across the North Face. I guess Daniel and I need a challenge because we think this is where we got off route heading to far up the ridge instead of traversing. This faux pas led to the stoke that John posted in his TR on what was our 3rd pitch, which consisted of heading up the ridge with 5fun mixed climbing. Daniel did a stellar job leading this pitch while John and Dave snapped photos from the summit. At the top of this pitch we found our route again and finished the climb with two pitches of fun 5.6 mixed climbing Much thanks to John and Dave for picture taking, encouragement/beta shouting, and entertainment from the top while they patiently waited for us to meet them. They are both great partners that truly made this climb a wonderful experience even with the post-freeze dried food smell emanating from one who we will not name. Summit prune anyone? Seriously though, both are great, supportive, reliable partners whom one should also consider bribing to climb with Back down the Sherpa Glacier brought us back to our tents and the subsequent hike out with thoughts of double heli bacon cheeseburgers dancing in our heads Gear Notes: Cams .5-2 1/2 set of nuts 6 adjustable draws rabbit runner 70m rope Approach Notes: Same as John's report in the NW Face TR. No slowshoes needed for our approach. See his pic of the two stumps for where to turn off. Last but not least, the gate is open!
  18. Only if you get the large tots too I'll try my best to get our TR of SGC up and going before I have to drag myself back to work again tonight...Until then I'm going to sleep away this beautiful day
  19. I was out there yesterday practicing some aid. I'm still not sure of the names of the different areas/climbs at the Butte but I was doing a crack that I believe was a 5.8 with a 5.10 start farther down past Phylinx (sp?) that was dry. The Silver Bullet area was dry like John said but the cracks to the right were still seeping a bit. Perhaps it will be better today, it stayed dry all day out there yesterday. Maybe I will see you guys out there tonight
  20. Hey Tvash, my page was looking a little plain, I think it needs an inset
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