skibum1087 Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 (edited) Trip: Snow creek wall - not what we planned on Date: 4/21/2007 Trip Report: I got a lot of advise on gear selections and proper descent footwear from people on this site so I figuired I would post my results. I had a really fun day today up on Snow creek wall, it was my first time there. Our plan was to do outerspace with the remorse start. The approach is great, easy log crossing and the rock is dry. We had some ticks but it was not as awful as I was worried about. Now the good stuff. We did not take near enough time looking at the route description and made about every mistake possible. Pitch 1- Instead of 5.0 ramp, it was dihedral to 5.8 friction moves 30 feet above gear, I kept expecting it to get easier but I started 50 feet to far left. I read in the description "start where the climbers trail meets the wall and just took off. It all worked out though and I had a fun time and made the proper belay. Pitch 2- That undercling flake is really cool, moved quickly onto the big ledge. pitch 3- I had read "if rope drag allows continue up onto the big ledge with the big tree and follow thin face cracks up to a gully and two tree ledge." What i remembered was "go to the big tree on the ledge and follow thin face cracks, (5.7)" After departing the tree I started up the thin face crack that seemed awfully stiff for a 5.7. Three lead falls later onto my trusty #7 stopper I was even more convinced. I traversed into a corner to the left and ran it out on the face to a belay. I now realize I was on Pychopath, 11a, not remorse. The description of a thin face crack had me sold that I was on route, next time I should stop and look at the topo. pitch 4- From the belay i entered the gully handcrack, which at first I possibly thought was the gully leading to two tree ledge. The only problem was it seemed a lot harder than 5.0. I reached the roof, looked over the edge, and saw two tree ledge below about 50 feet lower than I was, and 100 feet to the right. At this point we had actually joined up with Iconoclast. Realizing I had gone wrong we ended up retreating on gear back to the big ledge. We considered finishing the climb the proper way but there were nasty clouds threatening, so we rapped back to the ground and spent the rest of the way down at Eight mile rock. Beautiful views and much more challanging climbing than we expected resulted in an all around good experience. We learned some lessons, did our first full blown retreat, and had some good adventure. - Also we ran into a party as we got back to the ledge that is after the remorse traverse who were super freindly and encouraging despite our mistakes, I took a picture of you guys from below on the crux traverse so if you are on here I can send it to you. Gear Notes: rack to number 3 camelot Approach Notes: A little tedious but in great shape. Edited April 21, 2007 by skibum1087 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 It ain't skiing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 Seems like an extreme way to avoid the so-so starting pitches but... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 Why do so many people have problems route finding on OS? Just look at the topo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skibum1087 Posted April 22, 2007 Author Share Posted April 22, 2007 I agree the route finding does not seem that complicated, it was not looking at the topo as fender says that got us off route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhamaker Posted April 23, 2007 Share Posted April 23, 2007 (edited) Awsome attitude. Way to buck-up. Lessons learned, and how! I once went to climb Orbit and ended up everywhere. Mabey I should have taken more beta than "Washington Rock". I think I did parts of Mary Jane Dihedral and Galaxy too - but made it to the top! I enjoyed myself, but I fear my partner was a bit frazzled. Edited April 23, 2007 by jhamaker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted April 23, 2007 Share Posted April 23, 2007 I thought that route was very ho hum up until the last 400 feet and the decent sucks beyond belief. 2 stars at best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted April 23, 2007 Share Posted April 23, 2007 to skibum69420 for having a positive attitude about failing. you still failed, but at least you didn't give excuses or whine like some would have. you accepted it and moved on. good 4 you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted April 23, 2007 Share Posted April 23, 2007 I thought that route was very ho hum up until the last 400 feet and the decent sucks beyond belief. 2 stars at best. I am surprised to hear people make such statements. So there is a bit of third class downclimbing. That's why we call it CLIMBING. It's all part of the challenge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle_Flick Posted April 23, 2007 Share Posted April 23, 2007 Nice work getting off it. It was starting to rain and snow when we reached Library Ledge that day, but it was much easier to climb up and off at that point than rap with a single line. That morning, when we first arrived at the base of the wall, I noticed that you took a sporty line for the first pitch of the Remorse route (which, as you mentioned, is really the 4th class ramp to your right). Nice to have nerves of steel. When you reached the highpoint that day you could have saved gear by just rapping to Two Tree Ledge and traversed over to the bolts near the top of the first pitch of OS. That dead tree below Psychopath that we use for rapping luckily has deep roots. Anyway, Remorse route is one of my favs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted April 23, 2007 Share Posted April 23, 2007 I thought that route was very ho hum up until the last 400 feet and the decent sucks beyond belief. 2 stars at best. You are such a whiney little git. I'm seriously suprised you ever even make it out of the gym. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tradclimbguy Posted April 23, 2007 Share Posted April 23, 2007 Good TR. Nice to see one even if you didn't make it to the top. It will just make it better the next time you travel up there and hammer out the entire route. Sometimes I think it's almost more fun that way. Heck, half the FA's never happened in an afternoon anyway. It's only nowadays with all the topo's and bolted belays we get the advantage of running so many of the classics in quick single day pushes. I thought that route was very ho hum up until the last 400 feet and the decent sucks beyond belief. 2 stars at best. You are such a whiney little git. I'm seriously suprised you ever even make it out of the gym. Hahaha. I actually agree with kevbone on this one. Ho hum to an ok finish with crappy walk off. Doesn't make for a 5 start in my book either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted April 24, 2007 Share Posted April 24, 2007 Who cares whether you liked the route or not, complaining about the descent is just plain weak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted April 24, 2007 Share Posted April 24, 2007 How long does the walkoff take -- about 45 minutes or so as I recall? Maybe the walkoff sucks a little if you screw it up and get cliffed out or whatever, but it's really very gentle by Cascade standards I would say.... Odd thing to complain about....wonder how you'd like the "walkoff" out of the Picket Range??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimbingPanther Posted April 24, 2007 Share Posted April 24, 2007 I thought that route was very ho hum up until the last 400 feet and the decent sucks beyond belief. 2 stars at best. I am surprised to hear people make such statements. So there is a bit of third class downclimbing. That's why we call it CLIMBING. It's all part of the challenge. Are you saying that a statement you don't agree with coming from Kevbone is a surprise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tradclimbguy Posted April 24, 2007 Share Posted April 24, 2007 Who cares whether you liked the route or not, complaining about the descent is just plain weak. Who cares whether you care if I liked it or not. Now thats some weak sauce for ya! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted April 24, 2007 Share Posted April 24, 2007 I think people complain about the descent because they consider SCW as a crag climb rather than an alpine rock climb. No one complains of the descent off Exfoliation Dome which takes three times longer, just because no one mistakes it for a crag climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tradclimbguy Posted April 24, 2007 Share Posted April 24, 2007 You're probably right. I never thought of it like that. Then again there's Slesse I don't know of anybody that doesn't complain about that descent. oohhhhh my legs still hurt from the last time I did that like 3 yrs ago. hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted April 24, 2007 Share Posted April 24, 2007 you guys are complaning about going DOWNHILL??? wtf, gravity is with you then. just put one foot in front of the other and stfu. ohhhh, the descent, it's soooooooo long and sooooo hard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tradclimbguy Posted April 24, 2007 Share Posted April 24, 2007 If we want to keep up with your spew of post counts then we have to blabber on with as much nonsense as we can. obviously I suck at it though since I've still only got a hundred forty posts after this much time, hehehe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 How long does the walkoff take -- about 45 minutes or so as I recall? More like 20 min or so... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kat_Roslyn Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 How about the walkoff from Rat Creek group, that is brutal. Huh slappy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kat_Roslyn Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 You are such a whiney little git. What is a git? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Git_(insult) but my favorite is this: Git is technically an insult but has a twinge of jealousy to it. You'd call someone a git if they'd won the Readers' Digest Prize Draw, outsmarted you in a battle of wits or been named in Bill Gates' Last Will and Testament because of a spelling mistake. Like sod, it has a friendly tone to it. I'm told it derives from Arabic, where it describes a pregnant camel, of all things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 Typo. Sh and g are real close on the keyboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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