corvallisclimb Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 On Sunday Jan 28th, I was attempting the North Face of Mount Kent, when my partner fell about 200ft down the 45/50 degree slope/rough avi debris at the base of the north face. Resulting in a few cracked ribs, collapsed lung, sprained ankle, and a dislocated shoulder. I quickly assessed the situation and kinda realized at that point he would probably need a rescue. Not having cellphones with us, I had to run out to the car at McClellen Butte TH to call the sherrifs. Once SAR arrived they figured the best approach would be from EX 38 so we drove up EX 38 to the Iron Horse Trail(?) where the command would be. Soon enough there where 50 or so people running around and all sorts of SAR support vehicals. Wow I didnt expect all of this. So after talking with the first group of SAR people, they decided it would be best if I led them back there to my partner(usually they said they would never do that), because no one really knew where to go, being that there are no trails back to Mount Kent and such. So we saddled up and waited for a SAR vehical that would take us back up the road as far as we could go. The jeep finally arrived and barley got us anywhere, so we started hiking. We reached my friend right as the sun was setting. I had made the first call at about 1pm. Quickly got him into a litter and by that time more SAR folks had shown up, some snowmobiles had arrived for transport up the road. It took about 2 more hours to get him from the basin at the base of Mount Kent, to the road where the snow cat was waiting. We loaded in the snowcat and cruised down the road to where the command had been set up. He was then transported to another SAR vehical and taken down the road to a waiting ambulance, this time being about 8:30pm. It was an incredible day for me, I'm usually very quiet but I wound up talking to a lot of people that day. Its always intresting when 50 people know your name and you don't know anyones. I want to express my thank you to Seattle Mountain Rescuse, Tacoma Mountain Rescue, King County Search and Rescue, Enumclaw Search and Rescue, King County Sherrifs Dept, and any one else that was involved that day. With out the help of all those non paid and paid individuals, my day would have been a lot different. The dedication of those involved really showed that day. I am extremely greatful to have people like that out there waiting to help. Its an incredible feeling knowing that. So again thank you all! So with all that said the conditions on the North Face of Mount Kent looked perfect, we where aiming for the middle gully, Dallas Kolke 1994 route I guess. Looked to be in prime conditions, the begining looked like a fat WI2/3 step to some more WI then the rest was hidden. So I suggest any one trying to get off the beaten path check it out. Also staying west of alice creek during the approach seems like the better way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Glad everyone made it out okay. :tup: The hardest thing is to do is determine if your partner will be okay by themselves (physically as well as mentally) while you go get help. Sounds like you had all your shit together :tup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 I heard about this on Sunday but never got any info on it. Glad to hear everything worked out. Best wishes to your partner. Heal up quick! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted February 1, 2007 Author Share Posted February 1, 2007 The hardest thing is to do is determine if your partner will be okay by themselves (physically as well as mentally) while you go get help. Sounds like you had all your shit together :tup: Ya I'm a trained EMT though I've never worked as one, that I felt definatly helped me that day. I had given him all of my extra clothes and food before I left. I was most worried about him as it was getting closer to dark, knowing his personality hes the last one to want a rescue, luckly he stayed put. He was probably sitting there for 6 or so hours by him self, with no clue as to what I was doing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted February 1, 2007 Author Share Posted February 1, 2007 Oh and my partner is doing okay, he spent two nights in the hospital to make sure his lung re-inflated. But now is back home and just extremely sore. Thanks for your kind words! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 I've been climbing with a fire fighter recently and it's really gotten me thinking about renewing all my MOFA, WFA, and CPR stuff that I let lapse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Phil Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 If only you had an MLU. Not really. Thanks for sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Glad it wasn't more serious and that you got down and back up again before dark. Did the SAR folks mention why they don't usually like one of the original party ro lead them back up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted February 1, 2007 Author Share Posted February 1, 2007 Did the SAR folks mention why they don't usually like one of the original party ro lead them back up? Usually as I understand its saftey/liability reasons. It sounds like most rescues take place in more popular areas, where the SAR folks generally know the area. I guess this wasnt the case this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottgg Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Glad it all turned out ok. So how did your partner fall? Was he wearing crampons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted February 1, 2007 Author Share Posted February 1, 2007 So how did your partner fall? Was he wearing crampons? Not exactly sure how he fell. To me it was perfect frozen snow, mabey coulda been a little softer for kicking steps at that point. I was up and left of him so I didnt exactly see what happend. But I think we where above all the avi debris, but mabey there was one frozen chunk still that he missteped or something, caught a crampon, who knows! How do all those other people fall? We had just put on crampons and helmets mabey 300ft below where it steepend to 45/50 degrees. And both where useing just one technical tool. It appeared as if he tryed to arrest, but lost his axe mabey 50 feet into the fall. Not sure if he had his leash on or not. He then broke a crampon, probably where he sprained his ankle. We where about 50 feet below the ice step where there was small ledge where we where going to pull the rope out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 tell me it wasn't pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted February 1, 2007 Author Share Posted February 1, 2007 tell me it wasn't pete haha no! Pete missed being my partner for the weekend by 15 min. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Glad to see that everything ended up okay in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Thanks for posting the details. I was wondering what had happened. Hope your partner heals up quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Woot! for the SAR guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimbingPanther Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 He then broke a crampon, probably where he sprained his ankle. Wow! It's usually the leg that breaks. He sounds like a lucky guy and I'm glad he's OK. Hope he gets mended in time to salvage some of this winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 I hope your buddy is doing OK now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 (edited) Well it was me... I think I came out better than I was expecting. Luckly it was more sprains than breaks, my ankle is feeling much better, the ribs/shoulder is still lots of pain. A resucue is very humbling. How it happened I can't be sure. But some is more clear now that I am more with it. I'd stop to catch breath, I'd take a look at the face. A few times I stood on well embedded and frozen chunks of ice because they created a seemingly solid place to stop and look up. I know when I fell I had stopped to look up... not sure if on a ice chunk or not. As I fell I thought about arresting but early on the ice tool got lost... I'm pretty sure it was around my wrist, I even attached my pack to it when we stopped as I was paranoid about losing something. But I think it was very loosely on my wrist(grivel light wing leash). One part of the fall got me face first then I got back on stomach and began to try and stop, was scared to dig crampons in as I was going quick enough to catch them fucking hard, so tried elbows and fingers, lip of helmet(that did nothing except push helmet up and scape face). Not slowing down, and the next part coming up was looking nasty so I just beat my right foot in the snow to try and stop. It seemingly worked but broke the poon in half. Then tyler came down, at this point I figured I could walk out or at least I was gonna try before calling for help. Then I walked/slid to flats(this is short distance and took a long time and by end was exhausted), we talked, he went for help, i sat for 6 hours then gary showed up and my feet were going pretty numb and I was worried about that now too. So gary offered me his ski pole and took my stuff. We walked about 300 feet and then tyler and rescuers showed up. I was already struggling tho I was trying not to show it as I already felt light enough. After this point they took care of me... very well I might add! I just want to say thanks to everyone involved from the rescue crews and thanks to Tyler and Gary for there help. Gary if you are out there get in touch with me... I can't remember your last name. Thanks! Hopefully this makes enough sence... wanted to respond sooner than later but it's hard for me to type on the painkillers... so may be lots of grammer errors but deal. I'll try and edit and add to it and fill in more as the day(s) go. Edited February 2, 2007 by bigwalling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Another thing I want to add, the SMR people are truely wonderful, I felt that they cared more about how I felt than almost all the people at the hospital. The ride out was surprisingly smooth... in fact I have no idea how it was that smooth?!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Glad to hear that you're doing good and you injuries were minor :tup: Not to put you on the spot or to give others opportunity for critisism, but would there be anything you would have done differently? Sounds as though it was just one of those things that can happen to us all. Thanks for sharing with us :tup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 (edited) Injuries definetly are better than they could have been. The ER doctor thought my shoulder blade was broken but it came back good and the shoulder just has a bad sprain they said. Few ribs are fractured and the lung is just in fragil state right now. They told me I wouldn't be cleared for work for at least a month... god hopefully I feel good enough to just start going in half that time. Not putting me on the spot at all... good to talk about stuff like this. I know I've learned from others accidents. -Make sure leash is secure around wrist always! -Don't be so trusting of random frozen chunks embedded in frozen snow -Just being really careful Other stuff I just plan on doing more of. -Self arrest, i practiced the one time and got it "good" enough like most everybody. But maybe having this perfected will come in handy some day. Even if it doesn't, the peron who spends many hours will be able to stop faster than the few hour person. I am amazed how many stories I've been reading about others doing this same style of thing. And many of the people I've read about had many years on me in the mountains!!! Some of the stories made me think mastering self arrest may have helped. Or at least going out once a year and doing it just to keep it fresh in head. Edited February 2, 2007 by bigwalling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 When praticing for self-arrest, I have always included sessions with and without an ice-ax. It's allows good to plan for the worst and hope for the best. Gotta love the boy scouts :tup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Sorry that happened to ya, hope you recover real soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 When praticing for self-arrest, I have always included sessions with and without an ice-ax. It's allows good to plan for the worst and hope for the best. Gotta love the boy scouts :tup: Ice tools aren't the best for self-arrest, depending on type. It's one of the reasons why I continue to use my funky old Scottish tool. It's not really the best for climbing water ice, but it is a good compromise between a traditional ice axe and a speciallized ice tool. I use that on the approach, as its shaft is long enough (and straight) for good plunging on moderate slopes. I pair it with a bent shaft shrike for technical terrain. Granted, it's not very good for anything harder than WI3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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