David_Parker Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 Just a little hint....for those who have been eyeing Colonial peak/Watusi Rodeo.....this is what you've been waiting for. As far as I know it would be 5th ascent. Put your kahunas where your mouth is! Quote
Kyle_Flick Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 Should we skip the ice screws to save weight? You and Wayne may have been the first to climb the route sans screws, no? Thanks for the heads up. That certainly is a bold monster face. Quote
suckbm Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 looking for a current photo showing coditions Quote
MtnHigh Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 Just a little hint....for those who have been eyeing Colonial peak/Watusi Rodeo.....this is what you've been waiting for. As far as I know it would be 5th ascent. Put your kahunas where your mouth is! Turn up the heat, stir the pot and see what happens. Monday T/R post reads....climbers stacked up at the base of Watusi like cord wood. Â Â Quote
eric8 Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 weather is supposed to blow in over the weekend though Quote
David_Parker Posted January 31, 2007 Author Posted January 31, 2007 It can be done in one day.....or at least approach to base camp in afternoon and then do up and back to car in a day. This is NOT a weekend warrior route. This is same scenario Wayne and I waited for... and same time of year: multiple days of high pressure weather. Get it on Thursday or Friday or wait another year or two! No more excuses... Quote
layton Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 how about I have a compacted toenail from last weekend and can barely walk in sandals, less ridig ice boots repeatedly bashing into the ice? no, that's still a lame excuse. look for my corpse or amputated foot at the base. Quote
DirtyHarry Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 It can be done in one day.....or at least approach to base camp in afternoon and then do up and back to car in a day. This is NOT a weekend warrior route. This is same scenario Wayne and I waited for... and same time of year: multiple days of high pressure weather. Get it on Thursday or Friday or wait another year or two! No more excuses... Â Why not climb something new instead of doing a fifth ascent. Its not like there aren't any sweet unclimbed lines out there. Besides, its a Twight route. sickie Quote
John Frieh Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 don't climb anything sky and ross could potentially ski  or if you have to at minimum solo it to save some dignity Quote
skykilo Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 Besides, its a Twight route. sickie   Thanks for the laugh, DH. Quote
pms Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 what would you say about a 5th ascent of this? http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/40358778 Quote
G-spotter Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 fred said some guys were going in to try that last weekend, where's the TR? Quote
G-spotter Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 oh wait maybe he said Three Fingers.. i get those confused Quote
pms Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 I hope they made a trail, although I heard it's a crap route. Quote
G-spotter Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 And all this talk of Watusi and stuff is just so people forget about this: Â http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/40358123 Â Right? Quote
layton Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 And all this talk of Watusi and stuff is just so people forget about this:Â http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/40358123 Â Right? Â Actually, no. I was in there last fri-sat. It's not anywhere near the conditions philfort's original picture showed. The ice is unprotectable snice, and it will be mostly a long mixed route at a pretty high standard. Quote
G-spotter Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 And a party climbed it last winter at 5.4 and it will be in the new AAJ... right Quote
John Frieh Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 what would you say about a 5th ascent of this? http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/40358778 Â He'd say it's for sickie baa 8D Quote
dberdinka Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 Mike doth protest too much! Â West Face of Sloan on 1-30-2007. Looks pretty continuous to me... Â Quote
layton Posted January 31, 2007 Posted January 31, 2007 that's much more that when i was there on saturday. be careful that the ice isn't garbage. still, shouldn't stop folk from trying! go get it. Quote
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