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Alex_Mineev

[TR] Mt Hood - Reid HW 12/31/2006

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Trip: Mt Hood - Reid HW

 

Date: 12/31/2006

 

Trip Report:

Words to come, pics first

 

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hey oleg - looks like you did the same variation we did last time! come'on man, you gotta spice it up! :):brew:

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We didn't plan to - it just happened - it was the most logical line of ascent. I am glad we followed this line though - the last 500 vertical feet of Reid was super icy and took few screws.

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IMGP3977.JPG

this picture reminds me of many an evening in college under the influence of all kinds of groovy things

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I need to get of this damn couch...

 

 

 

 

 

 

Those are some of the best pics from Hood I have seen in a while...

 

I am gonna go fondle some of my climbing gear now....

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IMGP3977.JPG

this picture reminds me of many an evening in college under the influence of all kinds of groovy things

 

That shot caught my eye as well, I love the natural pattern. The photos sure make this trip look like a great way to spend New Year's Eve.

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What? Oleg on Hood? No!

 

Just kiddin; :) Good job; love that route. Best bang for the buck on the west side of Hood, IMHO.

 

Nice pics, too :brew:

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Thanks fellas! Alex brought his new SLR digital camera and it worked great! We had two cameras, his big Pentax (for landscapes) and my compact cheap Canon (for actions).

 

Reid was in a better shape than we expected - after all this snowfall and high avi danger. The entrance couloir was a potentially dangerous spot, especially at crevasse crossing:

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Higher up, conditions greatly improved. We encouneterd some thin sections of alpine ice and shallow snow:

Reid_enterance.jpg

 

The best part is a final 500 ft of Reid - lots of ice climbing.

Reid_finalpitch.jpg

 

We simulclimbed most of the way, although roping up wasn't necessary. We had not a single encounter of falling ice or avalanches. Except for the top of the Reid, the wind was zero. We topped out via the left variation of the West Crater rim - lots of loose snow. The rim ice at the summit ridge is all rotten and porous inside. Probably, the Yocum would be the same. Overall, it was one of the best Hood climbs in terms of conditions.

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Thanks Oleg, that is basically a TR :)

Next time if we go this route again, I would bring the rope but wait with roping up till the real need. I expected more amounts of less stable snow and shittier ice but it was quite the opposite.

I regret we did not make more shots of the action, but we were sort of in a hurry for two reasons: Pete was waiting in the car and I had to be in Seattle before midnight (which I barely managed to do).

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Woohoo, looks sweet. Must have been a good time especially with the wind holding off.

 

About what elevation is that where it looks like you are just above the clouds?

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Pete is good, but complicated. We all are - to the point when we don't understand ourselves. I think this topic doesn't belong to this TR :)

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