BOLTED CRACK!!

[bwrts]

i remember there being a log around the first bolt of gomd. Still there?

 

Clipping bolts never really seems that easy, especially inmidst continued strenuous moves.

[mountainmatt]

I think sending it with gear would be awesome. I will start cutting sections of 2X4s for the wide sections. The pump shoud be nice

[strumpett]

As long as there is discussion about bolted cracks at Smith, have you all ever climbed on the Phoenix wall? The second most left climb, I think it is called Hissing Lamas. The second bolt is about 7 or 8 inches from excellent gear. This climb should have been mixed.

[bwrts]

I think sending it with gear would be awesome. I will start cutting sections of 2X4s for the wide sections. The pump shoud be nice

kinda like how some parties freed excalibur? that should be fun. I would try this method with ya sometime...

[corvallisclimb]

I think the route looks a little hard. I am going to bolt a few holds onto it to make it more accessible for the general crowds.

 

Thats funny that you mention it because no more than 10 feet to the right of the photos kevbone posted is where the plastic sport route was. It has since been chopped but the scars are still visible.

[kevbone]

I think the route looks a little hard. I am going to bolt a few holds onto it to make it more accessible for the general crowds.

 

Thats funny that you mention it because no more than 10 feet to the right of the photos kevbone posted is where the plastic sport route was. It has since been chopped but the scars are still visible.

 

That is funny. I did not see that! I will look next time.

[corvallisclimb]

I think the route looks a little hard. I am going to bolt a few holds onto it to make it more accessible for the general crowds.

 

Thats funny that you mention it because no more than 10 feet to the right of the photos kevbone posted is where the plastic sport route was. It has since been chopped but the scars are still visible.

 

That is funny. I did not see that! I will look next time.

 

 

Yeah it cuts up a totaly blank section of the wall, it looks like 30 or some odd holes in a 60ft route.

[tradclimbguy]

Bolted on holds, now theres one for ya. I can think of a couple blank rock faces that would benefit from some bolt on holds.

 

hahaha, just kidding. I can however think of a number of crags with bolt on holds. Index used to have bolt on holds at the little crag just right of the zipper and Fossil Rock still has some plastic holds bolted to the rock, at least the last time I was there a couple years ago. Smith had some too and I think the newer sport area over by Hwy2 had some.

[Jens]

How about the bolted crack on the front cover of the latest leavenworth guidebook? And it isn't a thin flake like Yosemite's wheat thin.

[Off_White]

Wheat Thin, you mean the route that was rap bolted and "comfortized" with a hammer by Jim Bridwell? Well, yeah, it'd be scary as hell to climb that on cams.

 

Jens, have you been on that one in Leavenworth? Looks hollow in pictures, but it could just be that too much sandstone only reinforces my wussiness.

 

 

[mountainmatt]

The route on the cover of the Leavenworth guide (I forget the name) is a great route and has similarities to GOMD, except its a little easier and less pumpy. It gets really wide at the top (bigger than a #6). So this is a case where bolts are likeely needed.

[Jens]

Offwhite, I've done wheat thin but I had no idea the holds were "comfortized"- wow.

 

I confess, I'm guilty of never having climbed the route I am spraying about (I guess whenever I'm in that canyon I'm always drawn to the 4-star lines on midnight rock and the drip wall). If it just gets a little wide at the very top, run it out from your last piece. Bolting cracks that are wide is poor form- (And i'm a sport climber!)

[Off_White]

Offwhite, I've done wheat thin but I had no idea the holds were "comfortized"- wow.

 

You should go read this thread on Supertopo, Peter Haan's excellent first hand account of the first ascent of Wheat Thin.

[pink]

the grand wall has a bolted crack on. i was to pumped to clip them all. i clipped every other one.

[tyree]

Concerning Index, Angora Grotto and Gorilla crack are bad but what about the Black Cat Bone? Frikin splitter locks with bolts.

[chris]

I think the only way its gotten away with being bolted is its location and lack of publication. Moonshine and Sunshine dihedrals aren't bolted, are they? I vote for the chop...

[texplorer]

Damn, I leave the NW, and look what you guys allow.

 

[tradclimbguy]

Concerning Index... ...what about the Black Cat Bone? Frikin splitter locks with bolts.

 

Already mentioned that one...

 

Now if you want a good mixed area I suggest Skaha. While most people think its all bolted, next time you go there try a bunch of the older routes. Very interesting when you clip, clip and then have to slot a nut in a little constriction if you can find the spot or run it out 20ft to the next bolt.

 

Any bolted on holds at the exits or vantage? I mean with Index and Smith both having them I figure the bolted up places might have some too.

 

 

[kevbone]

I vote for the chop...

 

We should get a hold of who ever did this travesty and have them buy into them taking the route down. I believe the only person chopping bolts should be the person who put them in.

[Dechristo]

I believe the only person chopping bolts should be the person who put them in.

 

WTF?

 

no right to the first ascentionist?

 

 

[Off_White]

hmm, I'd assumed that was who he meant, but you're right, if the bolts are retro'd, then I think the person who put the bolts in has no special rights to consider.

[kevbone]

no right to the first ascentionist?

 

They are usually the same person. I have never bolted a climb that I was not the FA on.

Edited December 12, 2006 by kevbone

[tradclimbguy]

I've got a better idea. How about we all just go up to Index and climb more in general. Clean said routes up nicely and get more people interested in them before chopping stuff.

 

I'd rather see half of the classics unearthed and cleaned before time and effort was spent removing bolts that may or may not have a negative impact on the climb (like Gorilla of my dreams).

 

As I said I remember climbing Angora Grotto back in the day before any bolts were in place. Not sure why they were added to the crack section, but I'd rather just ignore them until I know exactly who and why they were put in. Then I can either kick their ass myself or maybe be swayed as to why they appeared and should not be chopped.

 

Same goes for Black Cat Bone. I'd be willing to bet 5 people total went up and did that route over the last few years, me and my partners counting for three of them.

[tyree]

Ive climbed it twice, and one time there were five people who climbed it that day, so thats seven last year plus your three makes 10. Now can we chop the bolts on the crack????

The other bolts up higher arent essential but that would be a pretty bold lead. Blind gear placements with super pump and a wee bit of exposure at the top.

[tradclimbguy]

Tally up our few burns on it that day and we've probably got 15

 

Anybody know who added those particular bolts and when? I thought about giving them the chop last year but then we tried the arete to the left "Accidental Discharge" I believe and got put back in our place.

 

All I can say about that "11c" is WTF. You are never far from a sandbag at index is all I can say. Then again I am old and suck.

 

I'd have to guess though the bolts were added due to the bolts and the beginning and end of the route and the fact most of the cliff is bolted. I bet they just figured it would be nice to add another climb to the crag that didn't require gear. Seems like that mentality lives at primarily sport crags though.