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What do you want to see climbed this Winter?


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and what about Heart of Darkness? Isn't it time that went down?


Roger and Dylan were able to pass the high point last winter but didnt finish the route! Bring your drytooling skills!


how many bolts did they add to the ladder?


Roger doesnt need to aid climb... as long as there are ice tools in his hands and crampons on his feet he simply levitates past the difficulties..

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2nd Ascent full N ridge of Stuart

first alpine style winter ascent



Are you saying Colin and Marko didnt climb the North Ridge in alpine style? If so how do you define alpine style?


that's easy, no fixed ropes.


Gotta disagree with you on that one. If they had continued to fix ropes up the ridge and establish camps sure but fixing a pitch or two because you dont want to waste day light during a weather window is fair game in alpine style climbing. It happens all the time like here:




“After 6 a.m. we woke and slowly worked out of our wet cocoons. Steve prussiked up 30 feet of rope we had fixed the night before. He had done the bulk of the hard leading the previous day, so it was my turn to take the sharp end.”


Props to anybody getting on the CNR in winter but no way is what Colin and Mark did expedition style climbing.

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I disagree.


Reinhold expressed the desire for lightweight Alpine style climbing at that young age itself. His definition of Alpine goes thus. “The start of the climb is done from the bottom of the mountain and one carries all the gear on the way. Route preparation should not be done and supplemental oxygen is not to be used.”


I am not trying to take anything away from Colin and Mark's ascent, I merely inserted the word "Alpine" into my link. Which ascent do I think is the most important? Colin and Mark's FWA. But, it it is worth noting Jen's and Cole's refinement in style.



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Best is in the eye of the beholder.

I think in winter climbing best means not getting thwacked by an avi...losing digits.....not leaving a bunch of trash....but mostly making it up, down and able to tell the tale.

If someone wants to do things in a different way or "better style" go for it, and good on them.

It ain't like your going up the snow making a Harding style bolt ladder. Come Spring no ones gonna know/remember/give a shit that you were there.

Bottom line to me ...... did you have fun?

Yes = success.

Edited by Pilchuck71
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I climbed Mt Baring in January about 7 years ago.

Climbed it via the standard (easy) Summer route. The hardest part was the climb from the notch and then the ensuing upward traverse.

Although now that I think about it the traverse across from the wooded ridge to the gully leading to the upper bowl was brutal. It was hard packed iced over snow and the footing was terrible. One of my buddies took a 50'+ slide down through the trees and fortunately missed all of them but did rip off a couple finger nails and get a major case of "road" rash on his outer thigh.

Definitely a worthy Winter objective.

Edited by Pilchuck71
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just the two of them - for sure alpine style all the way.


I love how Cole and Jens just ran up there superlight and bivied. no caches, just go. Not taking anything away from Mark and Colin, those guys are my total heroes.


I guess that was my only point: Colin and Mark's ascent was alpine style.


But yeah like I originally said: props to anyone jumping on that thing in winter.


The logical next step (IMO): enchainments... how about NW face to summit, rappel the ice cliff to the upper bowl, and then up the east face :grlaf:

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