DonnieK Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 and what about Heart of Darkness? Isn't it time that went down? Roger and Dylan were able to pass the high point last winter but didnt finish the route! Bring your drytooling skills! Who's got a good photo? Quote
G-spotter Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 and what about Heart of Darkness? Isn't it time that went down? Roger and Dylan were able to pass the high point last winter but didnt finish the route! Bring your drytooling skills! how many bolts did they add to the ladder? Quote
Sol Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 2nd Ascent full N ridge of Stuart first alpine style winter ascent Are you saying Colin and Marko didnt climb the North Ridge in alpine style? If so how do you define alpine style? that's easy, no fixed ropes. Quote
marc_leclerc Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 and what about Heart of Darkness? Isn't it time that went down? Roger and Dylan were able to pass the high point last winter but didnt finish the route! Bring your drytooling skills! how many bolts did they add to the ladder? Roger doesnt need to aid climb... as long as there are ice tools in his hands and crampons on his feet he simply levitates past the difficulties.. Quote
John Frieh Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 2nd Ascent full N ridge of Stuart first alpine style winter ascent Are you saying Colin and Marko didnt climb the North Ridge in alpine style? If so how do you define alpine style? that's easy, no fixed ropes. Gotta disagree with you on that one. If they had continued to fix ropes up the ridge and establish camps sure but fixing a pitch or two because you dont want to waste day light during a weather window is fair game in alpine style climbing. It happens all the time like here: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-alberta-wintry-house-anderson “After 6 a.m. we woke and slowly worked out of our wet cocoons. Steve prussiked up 30 feet of rope we had fixed the night before. He had done the bulk of the hard leading the previous day, so it was my turn to take the sharp end.” Props to anybody getting on the CNR in winter but no way is what Colin and Mark did expedition style climbing. Quote
Sol Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 I disagree. Reinhold expressed the desire for lightweight Alpine style climbing at that young age itself. His definition of Alpine goes thus. “The start of the climb is done from the bottom of the mountain and one carries all the gear on the way. Route preparation should not be done and supplemental oxygen is not to be used.” I am not trying to take anything away from Colin and Mark's ascent, I merely inserted the word "Alpine" into my link. Which ascent do I think is the most important? Colin and Mark's FWA. But, it it is worth noting Jen's and Cole's refinement in style. Quote
John Frieh Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 Jim Nelson, among others, cite Buhl's ascent of Broad Peak and Nanga Parbat as one of the first examples of alpine style climbing here Buhl utilized 300m of fixed rope on his ascent of Broad Peak. Quote
Choada_Boy Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 (edited) We are now, officially, splitting hairs. "Gene left camp that evening and made a boot pack up to the col so that we'd have a good track to follow in the morning when the snow was frozen. We climbed the route single push the next day." Alpine or not? Edited September 30, 2009 by Choada_Boy Quote
Pilchuck71 Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 I thought this thread was what do you want to see climbed this winter not how do you want to see it climbed. Quote
Dirtyleaf Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 If I was drunk right now I'd puke. Quote
Choada_Boy Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 I assume that the "how" is implicit nowadays as "the best style possible". Quote
Pilchuck71 Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 (edited) Best is in the eye of the beholder. I think in winter climbing best means not getting thwacked by an avi...losing digits.....not leaving a bunch of trash....but mostly making it up, down and able to tell the tale. If someone wants to do things in a different way or "better style" go for it, and good on them. It ain't like your going up the snow making a Harding style bolt ladder. Come Spring no ones gonna know/remember/give a shit that you were there. Bottom line to me ...... did you have fun? Yes = success. Edited September 30, 2009 by Pilchuck71 Quote
tazz Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 Bottom line to me ...... did you have fun? Yes = success. yeeehaw!!! Quote
olyclimber Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 i think the most important part of an winter ascent is that it is climbed within the Gregorian calender days of winter. A day outside is a day outside. Quote
pms Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 (edited) Buhl, Cole, Jens, Mark and Colin all show great style! Edited September 30, 2009 by pms Quote
Pilchuck71 Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 Buhl, Cole, Jens, Mark and Colin all show great style! Yep! That's what I am talking about. Quote
John Frieh Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 I'm with Sol on this one John. Thanks for weighing in Jim! Independent of who's style was better what are you thoughts on whether or not it was alpine style Jim? Do you think Colin/Mark's ascent was not alpine style? Very curious to hear your thoughts Quote
pms Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 just the two of them - for sure alpine style all the way. I love how Cole and Jens just ran up there superlight and bivied. no caches, just go. Not taking anything away from Mark and Colin, those guys are my total heroes. Quote
pms Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 sorry good point. I'm setting my sights on Baring, and Hood. Quote
Pilchuck71 Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 (edited) I climbed Mt Baring in January about 7 years ago. Climbed it via the standard (easy) Summer route. The hardest part was the climb from the notch and then the ensuing upward traverse. Although now that I think about it the traverse across from the wooded ridge to the gully leading to the upper bowl was brutal. It was hard packed iced over snow and the footing was terrible. One of my buddies took a 50'+ slide down through the trees and fortunately missed all of them but did rip off a couple finger nails and get a major case of "road" rash on his outer thigh. Definitely a worthy Winter objective. Edited October 1, 2009 by Pilchuck71 Quote
John Frieh Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 just the two of them - for sure alpine style all the way. I love how Cole and Jens just ran up there superlight and bivied. no caches, just go. Not taking anything away from Mark and Colin, those guys are my total heroes. I guess that was my only point: Colin and Mark's ascent was alpine style. But yeah like I originally said: props to anyone jumping on that thing in winter. The logical next step (IMO): enchainments... how about NW face to summit, rappel the ice cliff to the upper bowl, and then up the east face Quote
olyclimber Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 sorry good point. I'm setting my sights on Baring, and Hood. sorry Jim, but Hood was already climbed in winter, alpine style, with a dog, and then ski descended....all by the same person on the same day, in the Gregorian calendar winter. Quote
Pilchuck71 Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 (edited) North Face Del Campo via Headlee Pass trail and out Weden Creek. The Lewis Peak Gullies on the Morning Star side. Edited October 1, 2009 by Pilchuck71 Quote
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