Hardest "moderate" route to onsight?

[Jens]

Any votes for the cascade 5.9-5.11ish route that is the hardest to onsight but after you've done it once, it's gravy and you could even style up it with a hangover? Or the perfect route to sandbag the out of town chestbeater? Several Index routes certainly come to mind.

[NTM]

I've always thought Aborigine would be a pretty burly onsight, but once you know where the holds are, it's a fun warmup

[Alex]

Saggitarius for the perfect Index moderate sandbag.

[lancegranite]

Narrow Arrow Direct's upper pitches

[bigwallben]

Newest Industry. 11a...

[Blake]

 

classic crack for someone who can climb 5.10 face/stemming/smearing, or anything other than needing to commit to pure jamming.

[Dechristo]

 

or

 

[Mr_Phil]

The "new" rc.com.

[catbirdseat]

I Remember Drooling, 5.10b, Amazonia Wall, Exit 38. If you don't know about the heel hook move, it's harder.

[wimsey]

Wartleys Revenge feels much easier on repeat. If you climb through the right bits without stopping to place gear, knowing confidently about the upcoming rest stances, it's more like a mid 5.10 than 11b.

[selkirk]

Calamity Jam down at Smith, 5.10c my ass. If you don't realize how best to use the big pocket up high, or get at all out of sequence your hosed.

 

Or maybe Blasphemy also down at Smith. Not particulary hard for the grade. But on your first attempt it's hard to convince yourself to commit to palms and stems low enough and if you don't your in trouble.

[ScottP]

Pork Chop Torpedo @ Index...weird lean with crumbly feet.

[bwrts]

Even steven...

 

f*(k...most routes at Index seem to be hard to onsite..

 

Leavenworth: Pumpline.

[matt_m]

Newest Industry. 11a...

2nd this one

"Ok - so you climb the easy moves straight up then DYNO straight right... Then under-cling the tiny flakes while doing a high-step / mantel move on nothing for feet till you get the good hold and clip the fixed-yet-scary downward facing pin." Yep - easy to on-sight.

[bwrts]

yeah that newest industry was hard following too.

[Peter_Puget]

Newest Industry. 11a...

2nd this one

"Ok - so you climb the easy moves straight up then DYNO straight right... Then under-cling the tiny flakes while doing a high-step / mantel move on nothing for feet till you get the good hold and clip the fixed-yet-scary downward facing pin." Yep - easy to on-sight.

 

After that beta everyone will flash it!

 

The 5.9 12th pitch on Regular Route on Half Dome. Of course nobody fails to onsight it.

[ScottP]

Newest Industry. 11a...

2nd this one

"Ok - so you climb the easy moves straight up then DYNO straight right... Then under-cling the tiny flakes while doing a high-step / mantel move on nothing for feet till you get the good hold and clip the fixed-yet-scary downward facing pin." Yep - easy to on-sight.

 

Sounds more like the moves on Model Worker...

[pink]

dods jam

[Mr_Phil]

Cobra crack

[kevbone]

Freeforsome

[Drederek]

The Sword pitch of the Grand wall, so easy to get sucked up that shallow dihedral.

[matt_m]

Newest Industry. 11a...

2nd this one

"Ok - so you climb the easy moves straight up then DYNO straight right... Then under-cling the tiny flakes while doing a high-step / mantel move on nothing for feet till you get the good hold and clip the fixed-yet-scary downward facing pin." Yep - easy to on-sight.

 

Sounds more like the moves on Model Worker...

 

crap - you are correct - For some inexplicable reason I seem to switch those two all the time (industry and the worker thing i think)

 

Newest Indusrty - Once standing on the shelf that provided the hard mantel move - go up and down a bunch wonder WHERE THE HELL you're supposed to go - look out right to the faint dike and contemplate for a moment - try it even before you realize it's a dead end then look where you NEED to end up, the blankness in between and laugh when you realize you've been there 15+ minutes with no progress what so ever. FINALLY, remember your sherlock holmes quote "When all other possibilities have been eliminated, the only remaining one, no matter how absurd, it your solution." Look left and start to go up on and left on NOTHING before moving back right. Clip bolt, continue up and left to scary seam before finishing route (How's that? Supertopo would be proud)

[powderhound]

Freeforsome

 

2nd this one, shit this is an ankle breaker, bout shit my pants on it.

[pope]

How about the first crux on Iron Horse? I think it's supposed to be 5.11d and that isn't moderate by my standards. But there is a way to do that move that feels like 5.10b/c. From a right hand undercling, just reach up and stick your middle bird finger in that hole. Feels unlikely until you step up left and then stem off the right foot and right palm. Stand up and grab the bucket. Kinderspiel. The second crux is a shade harder.

[pink]

How about the first crux on Iron Horse? I think it's supposed to be 5.11d and that isn't moderate by my standards. But there is a way to do that move that feels like 5.10b/c. From a right hand undercling, just reach up and stick your middle bird finger in that hole. Feels unlikely until you step up left and then stem off the right foot and right palm. Stand up and grab the bucket. Kinderspiel. The second crux is a shade harder.

 

ya just ruined the whole climb for everyone.