[TR] Early Morning Spire- SW Face 8/6/2006

[dberdinka]

Climb: Early Morning Spire-SW Face

 

Date of Climb: 8/6/2006

 

Trip Report:

On the first beautiful weekend in August I finally managed to get around to climbing Early Morning Spire. Prior to leaving I was a bit surprised as to the lack of information or trip reports for such a well known objective. So…here you go!

 

Allen Carbert and I used the Roush Creek approach as per the East Ridge of Eldorado. We wandered across the Inspiration Glacier to the 8000’ Mcallister-Inspiration Col then quickly dropped 400’ to the col between the Mcallister Glacier and Marble Cirque. There are numerous bivi sites scratched into the dirt here only one of which is large enough for a small tent. A drip of water was very hard to come by, so we mostly melted snow. Great views to Eldorado and Tillie Towers.

 

 

The next morning we easily descended onto the dieing glacial remnant in Marble Cirque. After dropping down to 5800’ we traversed across talus slopes to the snow gully leading up to the face. Crampons were very handy. You might get by without them but that sure would be a bummer if you had to bail due to firm conditions. It took all of three hours to reach the start of the route. Though that probably had a lot more to do with our aging, out-of-shape bodies than the terrain we covered.

 

 

The climbing was excellent as expected. We started more directly than the topo indicated but it would be really hard to get lost! The only really outstanding pitch was the fingertip traverse up high. Every other pitch typically had an easier vegetated section mixed in with mostly high-quality climbing. There is very, very little loose rock on the main face. The upper ridge is licheny, loose and not all that great but the views are outstanding. We brought a #3 Camalot and used it only sparingly. A medium rack to a #2 would have been plenty. It took us five hours up climbing efficiently.

 

 

The descent off the backside was a dirty piece of work, downclimbing rotten gullies, but went quickly.

 

 

After reaching the saddle separating EMS from the Dorado Needle massif we decided to return to camp by go up rather than down. We climbed a pitch-and-a-half of shattered low-5th class rock to reach the col between Preying Mantis and Marble Needle. From here easy scrambling led to the Marble Needle summit, then two single-rope rappels got us onto the McAllister Glacier a 5 minute stroll from Dorado Needles Northwest Ridge. This was a delightful two pitch climb on solid blocky rock.

 

 

 

Downclimbing and one rappel got us back to the base and fifteen minutes later we were back in camp. That night the full moon rose to the south while the northern lights flickered beyond the McAllister Glacier. Both routes are highly recommended. What a beautiful place!

[JoshK]

WTF is wrong with those pictures?

[G-spotter]

Looks like somebody's got a Pen and Ink setting in Photoshop.

 

I like it - kinda looks like the illustrations in 1960's climbing guidebooks.

[Billygoat]

Josh, hypoxia is setting in. Leave Bloater....

 

Nice TR cool pics

[MCash]

Nicely done. Thanks for the beta.

[Pandora]

Looks like somebody's got a Pen and Ink setting in Photoshop.

 

I like it - kinda looks like the illustrations in 1960's climbing guidebooks.

 

I was thinking it has more of a pop-art feel...excellent change of pace from the usual fare.

 

dberdinka!

[Alpinfox]

Sounds good. This climb is still on my "to do list" after one failed attempt due to weather. Can't really glean too much info from your photos, but that's OK - keeps some element of adventure going.

[DirtyHarry]

Gary is going to be all over your ass for posting those messed up photos.

 

Cool. That route is on my list too.

[Weekend_Climberz]

Nice photos. I had to rub my eyes to make sure of what I was seeing.

[DirtyHarry]

Yeah those are sweet drawrings. Paper and a pencil is way lighter than a camera, too.

[curtveld]

Taking the Early-Marble-Dorado circuit to the next level!

[Skeezix]

I look for that face every time I drive up the Cascade River Road. Just once before I die I need to do that climb.

[skykilo]

It's so pretty back there. Way to maintain the mystique. And you're obviously not retarded.

[cs]

the pixs were great....

[dberdinka]

And you're obviously not retarded.

 

And obviously you must have been stoned out of your gourd when you approached that climb!

[ashw_justin]

All TR's should be pop-arted from now on. The modern camera ruins everyone's alpine onsights.