Spendy cams

[111]

What are the major differences between a cheap cam and a spendy one? are the materials different enough to make a 70% difference? I know the obvious reasons (more plastic, softer aluminum...) but it just seems that cams could only be so cheap before they become drastically unsafe. Thoughts?

[catbirdseat]

You are paying for lighter weight, greater range, or a name brand.

[Alpinfox]

What are the major differences between a cheap cam and a spendy one?

 

I think the number one difference is demand.

 

Demand is influenced by (perceived vs. actual?) design, function, and reputation of the product.

 

Any American/European-made cam that is approved by UIAA or EN should perform according to specifications, i.e. hold an _kN fall in a laboratory, but good design and function may make the difference between being able to get the cam properly placed when you are sketched and desperate versus taking a big fall cause the cam was fiddly and you couldn't get it placed.

 

For that reason, handling characteristics are my primary consideration when buying cams. With that in mind, I like BD c4 camalots and metolius TCUs.

 

For what it's worth, I believe Metolius cams have the smallest cam angle which means best holding power, but smallest range. Compromise.

[EWolfe]

Then there's the link cams....

[G-spotter]

and the link crams

[catbirdseat]

Then there's the link cams....

I finally got to use them, both sizes. They are actually pretty neat. You don't have to be a rocket scientist to place them. They just go in like regular cams, except that they initially look too big for everything, until you retract them. Then they get smaller, and smaller, and smaller...

[cook]

I have some clog cams that I got super cheap off rei-outlet a few years ago. They hold falls but don't handle as well and don't have much of a range as the name brand ones I use.

[fenderfour]

Link cams are neat. I certainly won't replace my whole rack, but I think I will buy a second one.

 

One thing I have noticed - The cam needs more maintenance than your "normal" units. I have to lube it every other weekend to prevent squeaks and stickiness.

 

I don't really understand the need for two or three sizes. The largest one covers the "hands" range. Do the other sizes really extend the range of the "Set" enough to matter?

[111]

clog cams?

[whidbey]

Love em.. spendy.. just can't get my dirt bag ass to step up....

[cook]

Clog Cams

 

Like I said, they hold falls, but are not as user friendly as brand versions.

[skitchmo]

Second on the Camalots and TCUs. I also have a set of Splitter Gear cams, nice if you have a long approach since they are light as feathers. Anyone else used them?

[catbirdseat]

Clog Cams

 

Like I said, they hold falls, but are not as user friendly as brand versions.

I've got a set of Clogs. I've used them long enough that I've had to replace almost all the trigger wires, that is about 6 years. They work fine, but as I gradually add a second set of cams they are going to be the pricey Camalot C4.

[selkirk]

Will add another voice to the Metolius TCU's, but the rest of my rack are DMM's. Handle well, place nice, light weight, durable, and reasonably priced. If you pick up the 1/2 sizes then the range argument for the C-4's kind of get's diminshed. I tend to take cams based on the number of pieces I'll need for a pitch more than to simply cover a fixed range.

[dbconlin]

aliens rule!

[billcoe]

I've never known anyone to climb on the inexpensive - non-name brand cams.

 

People I climb with tend towards Camalots, Metioius and Aliens or Metoius TCUS in the smaller range.

 

The CBS said that the Metolius grip the best, I believe that to be true, but I personally like the expanded range of the Camalot and Maxcams since I get out so rarely it's nice to have the expanded range and be more likely to stick the right cam as you are greasing off the hold while looking at that 20 foot ledgefall.

 

If I climbed more, I'd stick to Metolius only.

[sobo]

Once again, my old skewlness is confirmed, for I use Wild Country Friends, the original.

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Cheap cams here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-Camalot-Camalots-c...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Set-of-4-Camalot-Cam...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

Double axle even! :-) But then I still use my Russian cams.

[gavastik]

aliens do in fact rule.

otherwise, i use friends - the utterly non-original , flexible kind. they are shiny and colorful... and they're my friends.

[sobo]

An old partner from days of yore once opined, "Sobo, you can't buy Friends." It is true in more ways than one...

[Off_White]

Yes, those Ukranian knock-offs are stunning. I wonder if anyone is concerned about their use of the terms "camalot" and "flexible friends?" Check out the quality manufacturing: that paint job, tidy swage covers, and precision milled grooves just knock me out!

 

[billcoe]

Yes, those Ukranian knock-offs are stunning. I wonder if anyone is concerned about their use of the terms "camalot" and "flexible friends?" Check out the quality manufacturing: that paint job, tidy swage covers, and precision milled grooves just knock me out!

 

Agreed, they copied everything but the name and the quality it appears. It makes you wonder what kind of testing and liability issues they would have if say.....hmmm, that center bar was accidently not heat treated so that instead of Rockwell 48-52 or whatever the hell it should be, it came in at RC38 and failed at 1200 lbs, which, come to think of it, is approx. my lard-assed weight in a 2 foot fall with 5' of rope out.

 

I think I'm gonna by me one of those nut tools though. 12"......., damn, I've always wanted 12".

 

I'm doing it right now.

[counterfeitfake]

I dare you to use Russian aiders with those Ukranian cams. Get a Hudy Sport harness and you're close to going 100% eastern-bloc!

[selkirk]

The nuts on the ends of the axles are a very nice touch. I wander if they are at least the type with the plastic core that don't wiggle themselves loose over time?

[counterfeitfake]

Looks like blue loctite on the threads, to me.