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willstrickland

notable ascent City Park sees new free ascent?

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three ascents, i believe. but this is the first climb without preplaced gear or special attachments to the climbers body.

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…I would put money on Beth to onsight it and pay to watch.

 

That might be the day someone accidently spills axle grease on the top-half of the route. hahaha.gif

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Nice job Mike. I heard you were about to send and wondered whether it had happened or not. By modern standards, that's the line's first free redpoint. Proud, proud, proud. Hope to see you back around here after your adventures elsewhere.

 

(An)drew

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Page 24 of August 2006 Climbing has a picture of Mikey at work and a short piece on it (Hot Flashes section). rockband.gif

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There's an article about this in the new Climbing Issue 250 Collector's Edition, p.24. The article relates that in 1986 "local climbers," fearing Todd Skinner was close to making the climb, poured motor oil down the crack to prevent this from happening. Skinner used a blowtorch to burn out the oil but missed some at the top and had top bail to Godzilla.

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And they claim that Hugh Herr's ascent doesnt count. Fucking bullshit Climbing wankery. The guy doesn't have any real flesh and blood feet, he can choose whatever size feet he wants in my opinion. mad.gif

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And they claim that Hugh Herr's ascent doesnt count. Fucking bullshit Climbing wankery. The guy doesn't have any real flesh and blood feet, he can choose whatever size feet he wants in my opinion. mad.gif

 

Props to Herr - proud ascent no doubt - but when you have "feet" that fit perfectly into the tiny crack AND don't get tired, something tells me you can't compare the two. Kinda like wheelchair records in marathons (faster!)

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Wheelchairs are common enough they can form a class of their own, but injuries like Hugh Herr's are not. So there is no one except other free climbers to compare him to. It seems to me like disqualifying an "in a day" ascent by Erik Weihenmyer because he's blind and therefore doesn't have to use a headlamp to navigate at night.

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Coincidence that Herr could climb like two grades harder after his injury? Maybe. Maybe he was just more motivated.

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Well he said that with the weight of his lower legs gone, suddenly he could crank a one-arm pullup... don't tell the gym kids or suddenly EVERYONE will be cutting their legs off below the knee. Capri length legs!

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Coincidence that Herr could climb like two grades harder after his injury? Maybe. Maybe he was just more motivated.

 

He was lighter man. Drugs are good man. I am tired man.

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The first real redpoint first accent of city park. One of the most impressive routes that a washington climber has done thumbs_up.gif

Way to go Mike

wave.gifLUCKY

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And they claim that Hugh Herr's ascent doesnt count. Fucking bullshit Climbing wankery. The guy doesn't have any real flesh and blood feet, he can choose whatever size feet he wants in my opinion. mad.gif

 

Props to Herr - proud ascent no doubt - but when you have "feet" that fit perfectly into the tiny crack AND don't get tired, something tells me you can't compare the two. Kinda like wheelchair records in marathons (faster!)

 

Climbing #255 has a Letter to the Editor from Herr about City Park where he says he did not have special "hatchet" or camming prostheses for that climb but ones that certainly gave him no unfair advantage. He attributes his ascent to brawn- he could do eight one arm, one finger pullups at the time.

 

I'm sure it won't stop the debate but it should move the focus away from the prostheses.

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NEWS FLASH! Limp Wristed Arm Chair Nannies show the TRUE history of City Park with photographs!!

 

hugh.jpg

 

close up!

hand_closeup.jpg

 

These photos give irrefutable 200 proof.

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