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hanman

first ascent [TR] Lake 22 Headwall- NW Chutes, IV, AI4, 13 P 2/12/2006

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Climb: Lake 22 Headwall-NW Chutes, IV, AI4, 13 P

 

Date of Climb: 2/12/2006

 

Trip Report:

Ok- Here goes:

 

11 years, including 6 attempts of this north facing 2300 foot wall has at last been completed. This is perhaps a new route, one that has held our thoughts and aspirations since a recon hike in 1995. The typical weather patterns of low elevation Puget Sound basin have generally dictated poor unconsolidated snow and ice in recent years. In 2005, however, we noticed a trend towards upper-level inversions, which (presumably) are responsible for the unlikely abundance of Snoqualmie and Lennox Mtn fun stuff. Here is the overview from Lake 22.

 

3243Lake_22_overview-med.jpg

 

Leaving the trailhead @ 3 am, we were at the base of route and geared up at 6 am. P1- screws, pickets, veggies, tree belay

 

3243IMG_2884-med.JPG

 

Pitch 2 was continuation of ramp @ approx.AI 2, with roots, screws, and lousy pickets for pro, tree belay

 

3243IMG_2885-med.JPG

 

Stephen ready for P3- kind of scary traverse over steep terrain- we have been here before. Ice was noticably thinner than 2003. Stubbies, pickets, trees, hope..., tree belay

 

3243IMG_2888-med.JPG

 

Sunrise at last...

 

3243IMG_2890-med.JPG

 

P3

 

3243IMG_2892-med.JPG

 

Glacier Peak and Big Four

 

3243IMG_2898-med.JPG

 

Two simulclimbed steep snow rope lengths followed by an AI3-4 pitch led to a semi-hanging tree belay on an exposed rib. Screws, pickets

 

3243IMG_2901-med.JPG

 

Stephen had the crux pitch with bulging AI4 for 30M. Screws, pickets to tree belay

 

3243IMG_2905-med.JPG

 

Lake 22 far below

 

3243IMG_2907-med.JPG

 

Three Fingers/Liberty Bell group:

 

3243IMG_2914-med.JPG

 

Gully steepens and constricts. Pickets, simulclimb...

 

3243IMG_2916-med.JPG

 

Stephen seconds P10- 2 small ice crystal avy's from the sunny summit made for painful reminder of location-Pickets, LA's KB's, cams. KB/LA belay

 

3243IMG_2921-med.JPG

 

Stephen leads the "Gentlemen's Highway" where we thought the climb ended at the ridge. HaHa- two more pitches to go- pickets, tree belay

 

3243IMG_2929-med.JPG

 

Top out @ 4:30 pm- Nice views of Rainier, Pilchuck, Vesper, and Index

 

3243IMG_2932-med.JPG

 

Mt Pilchuck view to west

 

3243IMG_2934-med.JPG

 

We thought about rappelling the route, then finally decided on the "walkoff' as described in the Kloke Winter 1 Day Ascents. Due to relatively large cornices on the ridge to the East, we were continually cliffed, and ended up rapping in the dark to the Hemple Lake basin. From the basin we had to ascend steep loose snow (1000 ft) to the saddle that overlooks Lake 22 to the north. Descent to the lake was not particularly straightforward in the dark, and required several more sleepy raps. Overall, the descent we took from the climb's summit entailed approx. 2 miles of corniced ridge hiking, 7 hours, 15 headlamp driven 35M rappels, and many vertical to overhanging ravines and gullies. Needless to say, we would strongly recommend descending the route, bringing an extra zip line, bail web, pins, and extra headlamp batteries to get off this "low elevation sub summit".

 

I returned home almost exactly 24 hours from the previous day's departure. Yes- being the good employee, I slept a couple hours and drove to work a full day.

 

Good weather this weekend- Go get it!!

 

Gear Notes:

70M rope, 10-12 screws, screamers, 2 kb's, 2 La's, #1&2 Camalot, 1 set nuts, lotza slings, rap gear

 

Approach Notes:

Lake 22 trailhed to lake=2.8 miles, cross lake and follow WSW (.5 mile)to base of climb (left of major gully separating towers from main wall) Begin at rocky right trending ramps. Descend route or be prepared for a very long ridge traverse

Edited by To_The_Top

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Bigger Pix in gallery, and I should add that nearly every stick was solid- excellent route and conditions. Also bring 3-4 pickets. Thanks Trogdor-

 

MH

Edited by hanman

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nice work! i remember hiking up there eons ago. i was disappointed with the puddle but the climbing looked amazing!

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i would only be able to respect this if you were female and single...er, that is, female and soloing smile.gif

 

nice job beyotches! bigdrink.gif

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That looks pretty cool. So where is Lake 22, right after Lake 21 I guess?

 

Clearly somewhere off the southern part of the Mountain Loop Highway... confused.gif

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After Mark and I talked about it we now declare it a grade IV. Go out and try it it's a very beautiful route. Our pics don't do it justice.

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After Mark and I talked about it we now declare it a grade IV. Go out and try it it's a very beautiful route. Our pics don't do it justice.

have hanman change the title of his thread then so the almighty flame lords don't descend on him then

 

i'm digg'n cc.com right about now - many sweet tr's of late and i'm betting after this weekend it's gonna be fawking sick

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Many times I've looked up at that awesome wall and wondered whether anyone has done anything on it. No one has been able to tell me a thing. No more wondering.

 

Nice job guys. bigdrink.gif

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Sorry for the typo- Grade IV for sure. Perhaps a moderator could change the title since the time has passed for me to edit...

 

Flame Lords grant me peace!

 

Cheers,

 

 

MH bigdrink.gif

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That looks pretty cool. So where is Lake 22, right after Lake 21 I guess?

 

Clearly somewhere off the southern part of the Mountain Loop Highway... confused.gif

 

 

 

Lake 22 is situated in a steep cirque on a prominent East flank of Mt Pilchuck. 15 miles or so out of Granite Falls

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Here are few more photos from Stephen's pix. Did anyone get on this thing over the weekend?

 

32430040-med.JPG

 

32430026-med.JPG

 

32430021-med.JPG

 

32430005-med.JPG

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