hanman Posted February 16, 2006 Posted February 16, 2006 (edited) Climb: Lake 22 Headwall-NW Chutes, IV, AI4, 13 P Date of Climb: 2/12/2006 Trip Report: Ok- Here goes: 11 years, including 6 attempts of this north facing 2300 foot wall has at last been completed. This is perhaps a new route, one that has held our thoughts and aspirations since a recon hike in 1995. The typical weather patterns of low elevation Puget Sound basin have generally dictated poor unconsolidated snow and ice in recent years. In 2005, however, we noticed a trend towards upper-level inversions, which (presumably) are responsible for the unlikely abundance of Snoqualmie and Lennox Mtn fun stuff. Here is the overview from Lake 22. Leaving the trailhead @ 3 am, we were at the base of route and geared up at 6 am. P1- screws, pickets, veggies, tree belay Pitch 2 was continuation of ramp @ approx.AI 2, with roots, screws, and lousy pickets for pro, tree belay Stephen ready for P3- kind of scary traverse over steep terrain- we have been here before. Ice was noticably thinner than 2003. Stubbies, pickets, trees, hope..., tree belay Sunrise at last... P3 Glacier Peak and Big Four Two simulclimbed steep snow rope lengths followed by an AI3-4 pitch led to a semi-hanging tree belay on an exposed rib. Screws, pickets Stephen had the crux pitch with bulging AI4 for 30M. Screws, pickets to tree belay Lake 22 far below Three Fingers/Liberty Bell group: Gully steepens and constricts. Pickets, simulclimb... Stephen seconds P10- 2 small ice crystal avy's from the sunny summit made for painful reminder of location-Pickets, LA's KB's, cams. KB/LA belay Stephen leads the "Gentlemen's Highway" where we thought the climb ended at the ridge. HaHa- two more pitches to go- pickets, tree belay Top out @ 4:30 pm- Nice views of Rainier, Pilchuck, Vesper, and Index Mt Pilchuck view to west We thought about rappelling the route, then finally decided on the "walkoff' as described in the Kloke Winter 1 Day Ascents. Due to relatively large cornices on the ridge to the East, we were continually cliffed, and ended up rapping in the dark to the Hemple Lake basin. From the basin we had to ascend steep loose snow (1000 ft) to the saddle that overlooks Lake 22 to the north. Descent to the lake was not particularly straightforward in the dark, and required several more sleepy raps. Overall, the descent we took from the climb's summit entailed approx. 2 miles of corniced ridge hiking, 7 hours, 15 headlamp driven 35M rappels, and many vertical to overhanging ravines and gullies. Needless to say, we would strongly recommend descending the route, bringing an extra zip line, bail web, pins, and extra headlamp batteries to get off this "low elevation sub summit". I returned home almost exactly 24 hours from the previous day's departure. Yes- being the good employee, I slept a couple hours and drove to work a full day. Good weather this weekend- Go get it!! Gear Notes: 70M rope, 10-12 screws, screamers, 2 kb's, 2 La's, #1&2 Camalot, 1 set nuts, lotza slings, rap gear Approach Notes: Lake 22 trailhed to lake=2.8 miles, cross lake and follow WSW (.5 mile)to base of climb (left of major gully separating towers from main wall) Begin at rocky right trending ramps. Descend route or be prepared for a very long ridge traverse Edited February 17, 2006 by To_The_Top Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted February 16, 2006 Posted February 16, 2006 Awesome work!!! Way to keep after it. Quote
hanman Posted February 16, 2006 Author Posted February 16, 2006 (edited) Bigger Pix in gallery, and I should add that nearly every stick was solid- excellent route and conditions. Also bring 3-4 pickets. Thanks Trogdor- MH Edited February 16, 2006 by hanman Quote
olyclimber Posted February 16, 2006 Posted February 16, 2006 awesome guys! Great TR...looked at a beautiful day out. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted February 16, 2006 Posted February 16, 2006 Super Sweet! 11 years ain't so bad, there's something I've been dreaming about for the last 15 that I'm hoping to hit up this summer. Quote
minx Posted February 16, 2006 Posted February 16, 2006 nice work! i remember hiking up there eons ago. i was disappointed with the puddle but the climbing looked amazing! Quote
ivan Posted February 16, 2006 Posted February 16, 2006 i would only be able to respect this if you were female and single...er, that is, female and soloing nice job beyotches! Quote
skykilo Posted February 16, 2006 Posted February 16, 2006 That looks pretty cool. So where is Lake 22, right after Lake 21 I guess? Clearly somewhere off the southern part of the Mountain Loop Highway... Quote
climinguy Posted February 16, 2006 Posted February 16, 2006 After Mark and I talked about it we now declare it a grade IV. Go out and try it it's a very beautiful route. Our pics don't do it justice. Quote
ivan Posted February 16, 2006 Posted February 16, 2006 After Mark and I talked about it we now declare it a grade IV. Go out and try it it's a very beautiful route. Our pics don't do it justice. have hanman change the title of his thread then so the almighty flame lords don't descend on him then i'm digg'n cc.com right about now - many sweet tr's of late and i'm betting after this weekend it's gonna be fawking sick Quote
catbirdseat Posted February 16, 2006 Posted February 16, 2006 Many times I've looked up at that awesome wall and wondered whether anyone has done anything on it. No one has been able to tell me a thing. No more wondering. Nice job guys. Quote
JoshK Posted February 17, 2006 Posted February 17, 2006 Good weather this weekend- Go get it!! HAHAHAHHA! Riiiighhht.... Quote
dalius Posted February 17, 2006 Posted February 17, 2006 congrats. looks like a fun climb. way to keep at it! Quote
hanman Posted February 17, 2006 Author Posted February 17, 2006 Sorry for the typo- Grade IV for sure. Perhaps a moderator could change the title since the time has passed for me to edit... Flame Lords grant me peace! Cheers, MH Quote
Geek_the_Greek Posted February 17, 2006 Posted February 17, 2006 props for downrating your own route As the pain, suffering and fear fade in memory, it all seems easier, eh? Nice work! Quote
hanman Posted February 18, 2006 Author Posted February 18, 2006 That looks pretty cool. So where is Lake 22, right after Lake 21 I guess? Clearly somewhere off the southern part of the Mountain Loop Highway... Lake 22 is situated in a steep cirque on a prominent East flank of Mt Pilchuck. 15 miles or so out of Granite Falls Quote
hanman Posted February 23, 2006 Author Posted February 23, 2006 Here are few more photos from Stephen's pix. Did anyone get on this thing over the weekend? Quote
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