underworld Posted January 25, 2006 Posted January 25, 2006 So I've seen different riggings of jumars (the yellow jumar brand jumars) and am curious as to the reasons. I've seen webbing run from the top down to the bottom and different configurations. John Long 'Big Walls' i think only shows a picture but doesn't say why. reasons, pictures, ideas all welcome Quote
jstone Posted January 25, 2006 Posted January 25, 2006 I'd say its to keep the unit from twisting off on horisontal/roof jugging antics. plus it looks way "core" to sling all your shit and duct tape it. Quote
fern Posted January 25, 2006 Posted January 25, 2006 I think in the old days there was an incident or rumour of an incident of a Jumar frame breaking. So people started tieing the whole unit together with webbing. The Jumars have a cast frame, unlike most other ascenders which are bent up out of plate. other handy reasons for tieing up your Jumars - look way honed and cool (make sure to pre-wear duct tape so it's not shiny and n00b looking - maybe get dog to chew on it) - pads handles, makes more comfortable for hands - the bottom biner hole on the Jumar frame is narrow in diameter, but long through the frame and many modern locking biners don't fit nicely and bind up. Quote
underworld Posted January 25, 2006 Author Posted January 25, 2006 I think in the old days there was an incident or rumour of an incident of a Jumar frame breaking. So people started tieing the whole unit together with webbing. thought of this too...but if the fram broke and you were tied into the top of it - wouldn't the whole thing invert and go sailing down the rope. with you attached? Quote
texplorer Posted January 25, 2006 Posted January 25, 2006 Whatever dude. Do it prussik style!!! Quote
MATT_B Posted January 25, 2006 Posted January 25, 2006 If I remember correctly they are cast aluminum. This tends to be brittle and can crack. The original design was not as stout as the ones on the market today. I don't think they were even originally designed for climbing. There have been several fatal accidents due to them breaking. John Dill, director of YOSAR (Yosemite Search and Rescue) has a collection of failed jumars and all kinds of other equipment. There where two places they would fail. One problem was the handle would break and fall off. If that is the only thing your connected to, down you go. The other part that would fail is the metal cup thingy (that is a technical term) that the rope sits in when the cam is engaged. When this came off the cam would have nothing to pinch the rope against and down you go. I don't think the original jumars where painted. You can easily identify the new ones by their yellow paint. Then new ones are built a lot better but a lot of people, my self included, still add some webbing just incase. Just remember to always tie in short especially when traversing. Quote
mattp Posted January 25, 2006 Posted January 25, 2006 Fern is right: climbers began slinging their jumars from the top following stories of accidents with broken frames. I'm not sure it was ever tested how well it would solve the problem in the event of a broken frame, but with the webbing and tape and all I would expect the whole unit to remain upright and function more or less the same if it took a big smash and maybe the frame cracked 'cause I'd expect the tape and webbing to act like a splint. Quote
shapp Posted January 25, 2006 Posted January 25, 2006 I think that Yates scored the tooling from Clog and now makes the old style clogs, much better than petzl, what do you think snaileye, didn'd you and Bleskis loose a clog off Arches? Quote
MATT_B Posted January 25, 2006 Posted January 25, 2006 CLOGS KICKED ASS! I never had a set but a buddy of mine did. He dropped one off Washington Column just after they stopped making them and couldn't get a replacement. After that we literally got a side by side comparison of a Clog and a Petzel. If someone is now making them again and they are the quality of old, that would be my choice. Quote
shapp Posted January 25, 2006 Posted January 25, 2006 Sorry, Yates does make an ascender but it is CMI that is making the CMI Expidition ascender that is identicle to the last generation Clogs I think. Same shape and cam locking mechanism. Here is the pics, looks like the old Clogs to me. http://www.cmi-gear.com/catalog/ascenders/expasc.asp Quote
shapp Posted January 25, 2006 Posted January 25, 2006 incedently this site is totally awsome http://storrick.cnchost.com/VerticalDevicesPage/VerticalHome.shtml Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted January 25, 2006 Posted January 25, 2006 if not a touch neurotic If I ever start ascender collecting and cataloging as a hobby somebody shoot me. Quote
bobinc Posted January 25, 2006 Posted January 25, 2006 Yeah, the old Clogs are bombproof but they also weigh a ton and that can add up. But the oversize handle is nice with gloves on. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted January 26, 2006 Posted January 26, 2006 back your self with a grigri then you can fuck up a lot and be o.k. Quote
Captain_Black_Bart Posted January 26, 2006 Posted January 26, 2006 Friggin' In The Riggin' is the only talk worth spoutin' Lubbers! Quote
chirp Posted January 27, 2006 Posted January 27, 2006 I usually use a bod harness and a prong collar on her. If it's hot, a pre moistened bandanna keeps her cool. Jumar the dog on Granite Mtn. Quote
MisterMo Posted January 28, 2006 Posted January 28, 2006 One of the Ellensburg Freds, Stanley or Dunham, I forget which, once back in the day had a pair of homemade Jumars with chromolly frames. They were things of beauty, far superior to the cast frame jobbies, and suprisingly light. I doubt there's been many frame failures (if any) for Jumars used as designed, but there was once a tendency to use them for solo self-belay, the loads involved with which would be excessive. This had a lot less to with suicidal tendencies than it did to do with the fact that such was the best technology available. Quote
crazyjizzy Posted January 28, 2006 Posted January 28, 2006 Thank you Dru, you know who the experts are. Quote
Dru Posted January 28, 2006 Posted January 28, 2006 Thank you Dru, you know who the experts are. well you sent me all those nasty PMs last time when i asked kurt... just cause of that i'm not gonna vote for crazyjz for uberator. Quote
chriss Posted February 1, 2006 Posted February 1, 2006 (edited) Fern is right. Off Belay # 31 1977. chris Edited February 1, 2006 by chriss Quote
crazyjizzy Posted February 4, 2006 Posted February 4, 2006 I think in the old days there was an incident or rumour of an incident of a Jumar frame breaking. So people started tieing the whole unit together with webbing. The Jumars have a cast frame, unlike most other ascenders which are bent up out of plate. other handy reasons for tieing up your Jumars - look way honed and cool (make sure to pre-wear duct tape so it's not shiny and n00b looking - maybe get dog to chew on it) - pads handles, makes more comfortable for hands - the bottom biner hole on the Jumar frame is narrow in diameter, but long through the frame and many modern locking biners don't fit nicely and bind up. We used to only do it to the old grey framed jugs. The nwer yellow jugs corrected that problem, but had trouble with the safety latches. Quote
David Trippett Posted February 4, 2006 Posted February 4, 2006 the Jumar is named after Adolph Jusi and Walter Marti. Jusi was studying eagles for the Swiss Government, and needed an ascender. Marti developed the Jumar for him. Quote
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