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Posted

I think its possible - climbing at that high a grade seems a bit hit and miss for the people accomplishing it. And Graham has been at the top of the game for long enough that his claims have credibility.

Posted
Can't do Realization, but climbs 15a anyways.

 

D Graham claims new 15a in Swissyland after failing to send Sharma's rig at Ceuse. Discuss.

 

1. Dave Graham has sent like every 5.14 in the world, and has been mopping up .14+ projects in Europe with such regularity as to make the accomplishments seem blase.

 

2. There are, what, fewer than 5 5.15s that have actually been confirmed by other climbers? There's hardly a good pool to draw from for consensus, not to mention more than a handful of climbers capable of sending the grade.

 

3. You are a Canadian alpinist. Discuss.

Posted

Here's what I think. Folks have been dogging 5.14 since when....1988 or so? It's time for 5.15, and if David What's-his-name is a big rock star and let's say he can't really climb it, then I suggest we call it 5.16. It will sell magazines and that will sell quick-draws and such and it will be good for the sport, from the financial perspective.

Posted

I suspect once you are into .15 territory that we can't expect every route to map cleanly to every body. At that point body differences, style proprensities, rock preferences, and body "language" all start to affect the outcomes to the point where simply being a couple of inches taller or shorter could make all the difference in the world and could result in someone not getting up a particular route or problem...

Posted
I suspect once you are into .15 territory that we can't expect every route to map cleanly to every body. At that point body differences, style proprensities, rock preferences, and body "language" all start to affect the outcomes to the point the point where simply being a couple of inches taller or shorter could make all the difference in the world and could result in someone not getting up a particular route or problem...

 

Agreed. Shit, man, this already happens on 5.10s and 11s.

Posted
[dinosaurian grousing, sour grapes antiquity-wallowing]

 

Pope: the only person on Earth who still has his wool knickers in a twist about that newfangled sports climber Warren Harding bolting up El Cap. How often do you have to re-hobnail your mountain boots, old chap?

Posted
I suspect once you are into .15 territory that we can't expect every route to map cleanly to every body. At that point body differences, style proprensities, rock preferences, and body "language" all start to affect the outcomes to the point where simply being a couple of inches taller or shorter could make all the difference in the world and could result in someone not getting up a particular route or problem...

 

You'll note that you don't hear many reports of cutting-edge climbers complaining that they couldn't send a route because they were too short/tall/whatever. Could be part of why they are climbing 10x harder than the rest of us could ever hope to?

Posted
You'll note that you don't hear many reports of cutting-edge climbers complaining that they couldn't send a route because they were too short/tall/whatever. Could be part of why they are climbing 10x harder than the rest of us could ever hope to?

 

Yep, but it's easy to suppose they are probably entering territory where some climbs/sequence of moves will simply not permit all different body types/sizes/shapes to succeed.

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