Steve House- Rupal Face

[olyclimber]

Looks like Steve House and Vince Anderson just got through putting a new route up the Rupal face. I wonder how Colin is doing. Anyone heard from him?

[Winter]

Where's the info on House's climb?

[olyclimber]

http://www.grivelnorthamerica.com/ambassadors.php?id=2

 

this is all that is there:

NEWS FLASH 9/8/05

Steve and Vince climbed the new route on Nanga Parbat's Rupal face! Six days up and two days to descend, pure alpine style. Very difficult to recover during the effort and the summit day lasted 24 hours. The pair is in base camp recovering before starting the long trip back to civilization. Bravo.

 

[Alpinfox]

 

I heard Colin carried both of them up the route. Can anyone substantiate that?

[olyclimber]

Colin sighting (third pic from the bottom):

 

http://www.24ur.com/bin/article.php?article_id=2059765&show_media=6053245

[Stefan]

This is just sick. Sick I tell you.

[bwrts]

I wonder how colin is doing without his "new" boots that he forgot in Fred's car...

 

 

i am sure just fine.

[wayne]

I heard he is alone with only his cook at basecamp . He will try the schell rt again this time solo.The first time his partner bailedthe second time weather.

[pms]

No details, but I understand that Colin is down safely from his solo effort. I expect he will check in here with all of his cc friends once he gets to a computer. Congratulations to Vince and Steve. Looking forward to hearing more details.

[highclimb]

where are you guys getting your information...i have been trying for a month to figure out how to get dispatches from them. are they posting on a site? i am glad he is safe. congrats to Steve and Vince.

Its weird to look at those pictures of colin standing with Steve house and Tomaz Humar....remembering back when he was 15 and we were both dreaming about climbing the north ridge of stuart......jesus

[olyclimber]

The picture is actually from Tomaz Humar's website. I'm sure pms's info is good because Colin works (or worked) for him.

 

I posted were I got Steve and Vince's info from. I think that they were going to share a base camp with Colin & Co...but I'm not sure about that.

[chelle]

Looked at that link you posted again...Colin's hair is so short I did not recognize him. I look forward to the TR and pics at the Sausage Fest slide show this fall.

[Stefan]

No details, but I understand that Colin is down safely from his solo effort. I expect he will check in here with all of his cc friends once he gets to a computer. Congratulations to Vince and Steve. Looking forward to hearing more details.

 

thanks for keeping us informed.

[wayne]

I talk to his parents, great people!

[highclimb]

^ thats what i should have done they are arent they?!

 

glad to hears he is safe!

[Colin]

I just got back to Islamabad from 6 weeks at Nanga Parbat's Rupal basecamp. My

partner, Scott Johnston, decided to bail after an early acclimatization venture, which left me to try our route (the Schell

Route) by myself. I made a couple of acclimatization trips and then a real

attempt, but I never got higher than 6,600 due partly to the increased

difficulty of soloing (heavier pack, nobody else to break trail...) and mostly

to unlikely timing with the weather (I got down from my last acclimatization

trip the night before the good weather arrived, which meant that I had to sit

and recover in basecamp during painfully good weather). Ah well, it was a good

experience nonetheless, and good training for Mt. Index anyways.

 

Steve (House) and Vince (Anderson) had perfect timing with the weather, and if

you haven't already heard they climbed a new route on the central part of the

Rupal Face (to the right of the Messner route). Tomaz Humar tried the route

solo several weeks earlier, but had to be rescued by helicopter from below

6,000m. It's a huge accomplishment, but I'm sure you'll hear plenty about it

from Steve and Vince later.

 

My brother arrives in Islamabad the day after tomorrow, and we're going to head

back into the Karakoram for another 2 weeks. Mostly we'll be trekking, but I

might be lucky enough to climb a bit on some smaller peaks.

 

I hope you're all having a good Indian Summer, and hopefully I'll see most of

you guys in the fall.

[specialed]

Right on Colin. Glad to hear your in good shape. Sounds like a great experience and decent training for Mt. Si.

 

Have fun on the rest of your trip and time in Pakistan. From my experience, never pay less that 45 rupees for an Islamabad hooker.

[gosolo]

Right on Colin. Glad to hear your in good shape. Sounds like a great experience and decent training for Mt. Si.

 

Have fun on the rest of your trip and time in Pakistan. From my experience, never pay less that 45 rupees for an Islamabad hooker.

 

sounds like there are some deals better left for the next guy...

[EWolfe]

Looks like Steve House and Vince Anderson just got through putting a new route up the Rupaul face.

 

Which way did they go? Looks tough:

 

[sobo]

 

I don't think the route matters with her... errrr, him... errrr, whatever it is...

[Kevin_Ristau]

Steve and Vince's story:

 

http://www.grivelnorthamerica.com/headlines.php?id=33

[Juan]

Hey Colin:

 

I met Bruce Miller this past Sun. 9/18 climbing in Boulder Canyon. He was with some guy named Rolando G. and they were walking up 5.12s. Maybe you know them. Anyway, Bruce said something about a sleeping bag blowing away on you and Scott on your trip.

 

Have fun when you go back. I'll bet there's lots of fresh bird eggs for your brother over there . . .

 

Cheers,

 

Sharp

Edited September 20, 2005 by Juan

[catbirdseat]

They were using 50 m of 5 mm cord for their rappels! I can only assume it it was Titan cord.

[Colin]

Back in Islamabad again, and heading home tomorrow morning. My brother and I spent most of our time in the Nangma Valley (south of the Charakusa), and also made a quick hike into the Masherbrum valley. I soloed the South Face to East Ridge of Drifika (6447m), but I was turned around about 10 meters below and 50 meters from the true summit, because the last couple cornices looked too sketchy to attempt unroped.

 

As for the 5mm cord:

I use 5mm as rap cord all the time, and it is great (although expensive). Yes, it should be the special super-strong static kind, rather than perlon (There are many brands other than "Titan" - I like the Maxim techcord, which is popular for rappels).

[Dr_Crash]

All right. That sounds awesome.

 

Note to the real alpine climbers: don't forget to leave strings of ropes and crap on the mountain to be a viable candidate for next year's Piolet d'Or ( to them!).

 

drC