Godzilla SUCKS (relatively)

[ScottP]

quote:

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Originally posted by mattp:

Some of the hard-cores who frequent this site have indicated that tape is aid, and only whiners with poor technique use it. To some degree, I agree with that idea because I find that if I am totally in control, I generally don't rip my hands to pieces. (snip)

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"Blood is an indicator of poor technique"

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

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Originally posted by Peter Puget:

Yeow How can you guys remember all those details. I have climbed Godzilla a bunch but don't remember as much as you all. here is an idea for this mighty climb. A topo should be posted with as much detail as humanly possible the ULTIMATE supertopo for a one pitch route!

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I agree that I cant remember all that shit either. Is there a dyno, gaston, smear, lieback, crimp on it?

 

who is the authority on the beta? what if I layback where they tell me to jam? is that wrong or poor technique or is it smart and easier than those that call it poor technique

 

Is it pro to 1 inch or is it pro to 3 inches

[chucK]

quote:

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Originally posted by Peter Puget:

A topo should be posted with as much detail as humanly possible the ULTIMATE supertopo for a one pitch route!

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Here's a start!!

 

 

I noticed the Smoot description said half a dozen climbers could camp out on the ledge at the top. Sounds like the description of Ye' old Toothe recently posted!

 

And speaking of descriptions of the Toothe and internet beta and Scott E. Rix, I noticed that his recent Toothe report (compare and contrast to Toothe report BTW as Dru has suggested) recommends a rack of a .5 and a #2 Camalots and a bunch of slings. What do you guys think about that!!

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

quote:

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Originally posted by Peter Puget:

Yeow How can you guys remember all those details. I have climbed Godzilla a bunch but don't remember as much as you all. here is an idea for this mighty climb. A topo should be posted with as much detail as humanly possible the ULTIMATE supertopo for a one pitch route!

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There was a chap by the name of Martin (and a few other names, depending on your opinion of Martin, and opinions varied wildly) who worked at the PRG for a while who had drawn up a beta map of The Quickening at Smith. Had all the holds on there and the moves and sequences. It was in a binder at the front desk, as DFA recalls, and one could, were one so inclined, take it and get a photocopy of it. Kind of the zenith of route beta, at least for sport routes.

[iain]

so what you are saying is he was selling "cliff" notes? a hahahahaha!

[gregm]

quote:

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Originally posted by chucK:

 

And speaking of descriptions of the Toothe and internet beta and Scott E. Rix, I noticed that his recent Toothe report (compare and contrast to Toothe report BTW as Dru has suggested) recommends a rack of a .5 and a #2 Camalots and a bunch of slings. What do you guys think about that!!

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philfort on the tooth:

 

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

A laugh riot as usual, Iain. Have you ever considered farming out your peerless mastery of the hilarious to Saturday Night Live or some such mainstream humor outlet? Surely they could use a jokesmith of your caliber, and would doubtless pay you handsomely.

 

Hmm, perhaps the reclusive imorris will weigh in on this one with some comedic quippery as well. One can only hope for such a blessing!

[iain]

It has been proven time and again that the formula for mainstream comedic success is not the higher-level, cerebral humor such as my own (see two posts up), but rather the more pedestrian, "Con-Air" humor we experience around the 4th of July weekend.

 

If true comedic genius were rewarded in such a manner, the creators of the Black Adder series would be billionaires.

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

 

True that. Can't beat the Brits when it comes to the ha-has.

[Lambone]

it's the first move for me...without using the tree of course!

[Uncle_Tricky]

I find the flake to be the crux, but that's why it's classic--several different cruxes with different challenges and different ways to tackle them.

 

So I'm curious, at the flake, you can do a straight lieback up the right side, or lieback and jam it a bit, or face climb up the flake itself, or take the left corner and use the crack on the left wall to bypass the lieback. Which do you guys usually do? Do you think the right lieback or the left corner is easier?

[mvs]

Finally climbed Godzilla this morning. It was a great climb!

Really entertaining to come back and read this old thread, now I know what people are talking about with the pointy flake, the burly lieback, the finger-crack exit moves. My favorite part was the crack climbing above the lieback, where you come to a small roof and reach awesome holds on the ledge up and right.

 

Can't wait to go back and do this GM linkup stuff...

 

[chucK]

Climbing Godzilla the other day and tried what Smoot calls the "Bambi" version. It's way cool ! When you're climbing the RFC just above the "lieback" flake and are standing on that thank-god pointy projection, exit the corner left onto a little stance and mantle up to a little ledge. From there you get dueling finger cracks to another mantle onto the usual finger crack ledge. Cool. Of course that would bypass MVS's favorite part .

 

Finally figured out that bolt-ladder start too.

[chucK]

bump

[olyclimber]

Hey Dru,

What's you're problem? Did Lammy stand you up or something? And why would anyone sue Lammy anyway? Isn't he a poor student? Perhaps they could sue Vertical World though!

 

just noting that Alpine spelled "your" wrong.

[chucK]

Porter could you please go through this thread (and others of the same era) and update all the gremlin/smiley guys. Thanks!

[olyclimber]

yes, after i get done manually spell checking them. once you do that, they really polish up nice!

[stillcrankin]

 

 

Where's Godzilla??

 

 

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[Crillz]

Japan!