Uncle_Tricky Posted November 17, 2002 Share Posted November 17, 2002 Hey Lambone, not saying you're wrong, cause it's all subjective, but I'm curious what single pitch 5.9s in Washington you think are way better than zilla? [ 11-16-2002, 10:46 PM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted November 17, 2002 Share Posted November 17, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Uncle Tricky: Hey Lambone, not saying you're wrong, cause it's all subjective, but I'm curious what single pitch 5.9s in Washington you think are way better than zilla? Yeah, good question! And the North Wall of the Backroom at the Vertical World doesn't qualify here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted November 17, 2002 Share Posted November 17, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Uncle Tricky: Hey Lambone, not saying you're wrong, cause it's all subjective, but I'm curious what single pitch 5.9s in Washington you think are way better than zilla? Yeah everybody tell us you 5.9 rec's. Good 5.9's are fun to climb. These are good: Toward the end of Liberty Crack, Stretch the rope near end of Rock On, Zig Zag pitch on NW corner NEWS, p4 Total Soul, Off Duty, Last pitch Lovin' Arms. There's some pitch on Rock On that's pretty long and cool if you stretch the rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted November 17, 2002 Share Posted November 17, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Bah. Not enough bolts next to exquisitely roto-hammered pockets! dfa....we climber your mega super classic bolt-o-rama lev 29....bah wahat a overated pos.... phuleeeeeeeezzzz give me he trad anyday!!!! zilla rocks domes...deal with it or go back to exit 32.... trip continues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle_Tricky Posted November 17, 2002 Share Posted November 17, 2002 Al Pine, I agree that first 5.9 pitch on the NW Corner (I assume that's what you call the zig-zag pitch?) is one of the coolest single pitches at the grade. Great exposure, some mandatory runouts to make it exciting, cool moves, etc. The last pitch on the S. Face of Prusik is up there too. Some less popular but still fun crag climbs at the grade: Just Ducky and The Drain (Bathtub Dome, Leavenworth) April Mayhem (Leavenworth) Free For All (Beacon Rock) Several cracks at the Bend in the Salomon's roof area who's names escape me. Oh, and Inca Roads. Has anyone climbed First Blood at the Royal Columns? Maybe I was on the wrong line or something, and I didn't have hardly any big gear, but that thing was bloody hard for a 5.8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted November 17, 2002 Share Posted November 17, 2002 Celestial Groove- Pearly Gates- Leavenworth 90ish feet of crack climbing perfection Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted November 17, 2002 Share Posted November 17, 2002 Scary Canary aint so bad either... oh yeah, it's a mere 5.8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted November 17, 2002 Share Posted November 17, 2002 The 5.9 pitch on Northwest Early Winter Spire for one, or the Gendarme on Stuart. Asthetic value (ie. the veiw) is a big part of my criteria. Fo Index, I think I actualy like the Roger's Corner/Breakfast pitch better. But don't get me wrong, Godzilla kicks ass. [ 11-17-2002, 11:33 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted November 18, 2002 Share Posted November 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Al Pine: Noone climbs that route because a) the bottom is a choice of bolted moss or grovel crack Dont remember the bolted start but the crack was fun. Harder and steeper than it looks too then a traverse to a belay. The next pitch is short corner with a steep part before the top. Finally a short slabby pitch. The variation in the guide isn't as good as what I have described here. c) the trail has been destroyed Nope just rerouted a bit. PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toast Posted November 18, 2002 Share Posted November 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Al Pine: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: oh yeah, and I like godzilla! But there are better 5.9's out there... For the sake of discussion, NAME ONE! Besides the aforementioned GM. Yeah, I know, I can't talk... I don't know Godzilla. But how about Orbit on Snow Creek Wall? That one fucking rocks! Nice hand cracks, ducky overhangs, ever so daintily nubbed face climbing, and juggy chicken heads to finish just when you need 'em (thanks mattp for letting me tag along.) If Godzilla is anything like that, I gotta I gotta I gotta... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted November 18, 2002 Share Posted November 18, 2002 I think Godzilla is a fine route. Lots of pitches are good in WA. Just to happens that one is right off the ground and easy to approach. Which has some appeal with many people including me. I still think the Saggitarius to the Ringing Flake is cooler but hey it's only an opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle_Tricky Posted November 18, 2002 Share Posted November 18, 2002 Toast, you'll find godzilla a bit more strenuous than orbit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted November 18, 2002 Share Posted November 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Uncle Tricky: Toast, you'll find godzilla a bit more strenuous than orbit. I thought the 5.9 finger crux on Orbit was harder than any of the hand jamming on Zilla, but it's not nearly as sustained... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted November 18, 2002 Share Posted November 18, 2002 so, would Godzilla be 5.9 if it was half-way up the gendarme on Stuart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted November 18, 2002 Share Posted November 18, 2002 No, probly 5.8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted November 18, 2002 Share Posted November 18, 2002 Isn't the crux on Godzilla the last move unless you are tall? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted November 18, 2002 Share Posted November 18, 2002 the first couple of times i climbed 'zilla, i did the combo-jam/layback at the big flake, but now i just place gear from the bottom, layback up to the good stance in the middle (on that pointy projection), place another piece, then layback again up into the corner above. this gets you through it really fast - knowing that there are good stances, you can just chug through the layback with as little energy as possible. second pitch of local knowledge, at the bend at tieton, is a great 5.9. it looks like it's going to be about 5.11, but it's much easier, perfect fingerlocks on this crazy crack that's on the point of an arete with cool exposure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted November 18, 2002 Author Share Posted November 18, 2002 The coolest thing about Godzilla is the sustained nature. That is evidenced by the fact that I think UT and F_m are inadvertently talking about two different cruxes. By the way, by "sustained" here I don't mean "long time without rests" but am talking more about uniformity of difficulty the entire way up. [ 11-18-2002, 01:07 PM: Message edited by: chucK ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted November 18, 2002 Share Posted November 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by chucK: I think UT and F_m are inadvertently talking about two different cruxes... I read their posts to be describing the same crux, starting about 25 feet off the ground. I think the mentally easiest approach (least committing) is to use both cracks, but FM describes what is probably the easiest approach to it if you are comfortable with the lieback. I usually cheat and tape up my hands so I can combine the lieback approach with resting on some pretty solid jams on the right (hang my head in shame). I find that next corner section often seems the crux to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted November 18, 2002 Author Share Posted November 18, 2002 Matt, I think you are talking about UT's crux. Forrest seems to be talking about what you refer to as the "next corner". That's the one that has the thank god "pointy projection". And what is this about "cheating"? Are you refering to taping? Taping is not cheating, only using chalk is. [ 11-18-2002, 01:25 PM: Message edited by: chucK ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted November 18, 2002 Share Posted November 18, 2002 Ah yes, the thank-god-pointy-projection!!!! But I thought maybe Forrest was talking about standing on that "pointy projection" in the form of the little flake sticking out of the right-hand crack on the first crux, where you get a good rest and can re-plug before continuing on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted November 18, 2002 Share Posted November 18, 2002 Some of the hard-cores who frequent this site have indicated that tape is aid, and only whiners with poor technique use it. To some degree, I agree with that idea because I find that if I am totally in control, I generally don't rip my hands to pieces. Tape is aid but then again, one could make the same argument about c-4 rubber yet they never do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted November 18, 2002 Share Posted November 18, 2002 ok, let me see if I can unobfuscate… I think the crux of godzilla, esp. for the “onsight”, is the burly layback section, i.e., you do the bottom part, clip to the block with all the slings, stand up on the flake to above, then the crux: about 20 feet of laybacking or jamming up a big flake/crack to where there’s a no-hands rest. above, it turns into more of a corner with a crack in the face of the wall, and there’s a lot more stances for placing gear. that layback is hard to do jamming and placing gear, easy to do by just ape-laybacking up the outside many people seem to think the last move before the belay is the crux, but I’ve never thought it’s that hard… one finger jam, a stem, and I can reach the ledge and mantle. i like taping my hands if i'm going to crack climb more than one day in a row. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted November 18, 2002 Share Posted November 18, 2002 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted November 18, 2002 Share Posted November 18, 2002 Yeow How can you guys remember all those details. I have climbed Godzilla a bunch but don't remember as much as you all. here is an idea for this mighty climb. A topo should be posted with as much detail as humanly possible the ULTIMATE supertopo for a one pitch route! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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