chucK Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 I was walking in to work today thinking about climbing ( with that?!) and thought about Godzilla compared to linking p2 of GM with either the Heart of the Country crack or p3 of GM and I think either of those linkups kicks butt on Godzilla. I guess I was always considering Godzilla some megaclassic because of what the guidebooks and sprayers and stuff say, but thinking about it now, I think they're not thinking very carefully. I mean, what's to recommend about Godzilla? It's steep and it's easy wrt how steep it is. It does have three cruxes I guess, that's way cool and you even have the little run out baby crux at the start, so well, now that I think about it, Godzilla is cool (not that I wasn't saying it wasn't). But with GM -> HOC you got steepness, you got cool liebacking around knobby roofs, OW crack if you want it and a totally sweet handcrack. I guess this is a little unfair comparison since I think this linkup is decidely more difficult than God Z but how about if you do the GM p2-p3 thing. Then it's probably easier than 'zilla or at least comparable, still as steep and you get the same steep laybacking and knobs, squeeze chimney thrutch (thankfully short), airy face/crack climbing then a soaring almost wide crack that you get to plunge your fist waay deeep insiiiiiiiiiiiiiiide. Sweet! Whattayou think? Better than typing about taxes for another day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toast Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 Well hey chucK, you can be the fourth we need for Index this weekend and prove it to us Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted November 15, 2002 Author Share Posted November 15, 2002 I took a fast-learning newbie out to Index and let him lead Godzilla (he had already led crux pitches of Outer Space that year). He took a head first whipper. He didn't get injured (his pro held) but his drive to climb appeared to taper off quickly following that incident. You sure you wanna do that to yourself? I find Index be intimidating enough when it's not damp . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle_Tricky Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 I likes zem both! It's a little different comparing one long pitch off the ground like Godzilla with the GM-->HOC linkup. When I did the GM/HOC, we swung leads and broke it up into short pitches, so while I got the sweet HOC hand crack, it didn't have the same flow as a longer pitch like zilla. I could see how linking the 2nd of GM and the handcrack pitch of HOC would make for a fun long varied lead. So what about comparing Princely and Godzilla? I find princely a lot less strenuous, but just more plain fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toast Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 quote: I took a fast-learning newbie out to Index and let him lead Godzilla (he had already led crux pitches of Outer Space that year). He took a head first whipper. He didn't get injured (his pro held) but his drive to climb appeared to taper off quickly following that incident. You sure you wanna do that to yourself? Nope, but Lambone could use another body to help coach me and Lee on belay anchor set ups Someday I'd like to do Godzilla, but I'll probably follow my first time out on it. [ 11-15-2002, 11:07 AM: Message edited by: Toast ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 I don't think they kick but but on crowded days Godzilla can be a bit of a scene so I usually am up for something different. While the same can be said sometimes for GM, often there is no comparison. That route to the left of Rattletale is pretty good to although it's a bit harder. No one even seems to go there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offwidthclimber Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 the first pitch of godzilla was cool, especially because chuck rope gunned me up it since i'm a pussy! what about the second pitch of city park? now that's a killer pitch - sweet jams and the mantle move is great!!! thanks again to chuck for dragging my ass up that one too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 Hey isn't Einstien's Relatives a great rout ename? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 Shit disturbing 1) Is Lambone AMGA certified? 2) Is he making Lee and Toast sign a waiver? 3) Will there be lawsuits in the event of an accident? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Natural Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 Damn, its a good thing Erik isn't around. I think zilla sets the bar to which all moderate free pitches must be compared. Definately the best .9 at index, that I have done. Princely, are you serious , then again if I didn't always puss out and place something before the big traverse and wind up with wicked drag I might like it more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeadSpace Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 how's about Roger's Corner, good climbing,one long pitch, crux near the top, airy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvin Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 How about Godzilla - City Park? Gorilla My Dreams? Marvin. -------------------------------- "...life, in the end, cannot be understood." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toast Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: Shit disturbing 1) Is Lambone AMGA certified? 2) Is he making Lee and Toast sign a waiver? 3) Will there be lawsuits in the event of an accident? Phuck that , this is more like a good guy offering to coach a few newbies on anchor setups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 So is that you promising, if he advises you an anchor is sound, and it blows, you won't sue him? I know USA is a more litigous culture than Canada, which is why I ask in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toast Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 Sure, I'd like the coaching, but if I build an anchor and weight it, that's my judgement saying it's good, not his. None to blame but me if it blows [ 11-15-2002, 02:01 PM: Message edited by: Toast ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted November 16, 2002 Share Posted November 16, 2002 I thought Zilla was thought provoking and fun incorporating several different kinds of technical climbing on one route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted November 16, 2002 Share Posted November 16, 2002 Bah. Not enough bolts next to exquisitely roto-hammered pockets! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted November 16, 2002 Share Posted November 16, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: That route to the left of Rattletale is pretty good to although it's a bit harder. No one even seems to go there. Noone climbs that route because a) the bottom is a choice of bolted moss or grovel crack b) the guide says it's 5.12 (good route though, haven't done the 5.12 last pitch) Noone goes to Rattletale Wall because a) there's like two climbs normal people can do b) it's a long ways from anything else c) the trail has been destroyed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted November 16, 2002 Share Posted November 16, 2002 Hey Dru, What's you're problem? Did Lammy stand you up or something? And why would anyone sue Lammy anyway? Isn't he a poor student? Perhaps they could sue Vertical World though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted November 16, 2002 Share Posted November 16, 2002 I am no longer a Vertical World instructor. But thanks for the advice. Oh and just cause I spray on CC.com alot dosent make me a poor student... Dru, In response to: 1) Is Lambone AMGA certified? 2) Is he making Lee and Toast sign a waiver? 3) Will there be lawsuits in the event of an accident? no, no, and no I don't see why any of this would be relavent. I am not guiding anyone. Since when do you need a waiver to have a friend teach you about anchors, how many partners have you show a thing or two? Could their parents sue you if they die? How about someone who dies following one of your extensive peices of route beta on bivouac...are you liable? Perhaps if I was being paid it may be different, but otherwise I think you are just blowing hot air out you're ass. [ 11-15-2002, 07:54 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted November 16, 2002 Share Posted November 16, 2002 oh yeah, and I like godzilla! But there are better 5.9's out there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted November 16, 2002 Share Posted November 16, 2002 From a newbie's point of view, Gozilla is sustained hard climbing, Pitches 2 and 3 of the GM Route are fairly broken up with obvious rests and not as technical, except the OW. Having said that, I think the GM is funner climbing as it's more varried, like you say. I haven't done HOC, or Princly, they both look like a good time and on my "too do" list for the winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted November 16, 2002 Share Posted November 16, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Oh and just cause I spray on CC.com alot dosent make me a poor student... I didn't mean you were a lousy student. I meant that you were a student lacking assets (money or property). I'm sure I could be wrong about that. Your employment in a low-paying position also led me to believe you don't have a lot of financial exposure in a lawsuit. Well, unless the woman you married is a moneybags (or you're under 18, then they could get your parents). Anyway...can you tell I'm bored. I just thought Dru was being sort of a dick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted November 16, 2002 Share Posted November 16, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Lambone: oh yeah, and I like godzilla! But there are better 5.9's out there... For the sake of discussion, NAME ONE! Besides the aforementioned GM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted November 16, 2002 Share Posted November 16, 2002 quote: I find princely a lot less strenuous, but just more plain fun i felt that the main crux on princely was way strenuous...especially after 60m meters of climbing...i just wish toxic shok was 60 meters long...that would be the coolest 5.9 in the world...though if it were that long it would be 5.10 probably...love that lie back! though in retrospect, i did lead princely in the dark...tha might have something to do with it... [ 11-16-2002, 10:00 AM: Message edited by: Fence Sitter ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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