DirtyHarry Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 I know some dumbass who's tried to free solo all five WA Pass spires in a day like 10 times and failed each time b/c he can't summon the balls to solo NW Corner on N Early Winter. What a fuckin' loser! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 There's an easier route on NEWS, which is commonly used as the rappel route . . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 Whitehorse, as I recall, is one peak with an awful lot of unsuccessful attempts. I'd have to say that I have never had more than one failure on anything. The only unfinished business I have at present is Triumph and Liberty Ridge. I think I need to aim for a higher mark. I am not failing enough. Â You got up Johannesburg? Dude, you have a better memory than I do. Indeed, that was a failure, but I don't think of it that way, because I learned a ton on that attempt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 Indeed! That was just a reconnaissance! Â I have reconnoiterred Whitehorse over five trips so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 3 Attempts on Rainier - No summit Yet 3 Attempts on Chair Peak - No summit Yet 3 Winter attemps on Colchuck Peak - No Summit Yet 2 Attempts on Mt. Robson - No Summit yet  And a bunch of unsuccessful first tries.  Hey Chris -  Ropegun THE TOOTH for me and I'll belay you up Rainier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 These are the one's i still haven't climbed for reasons beyond the control of man or god: 5 on ham and eggs   Does this mean 5 separate flights up the glacier, or 5 tries once on the glacier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 These are the one's i still haven't climbed for reasons beyond the control of man or god: 5 on ham and eggs   Does this mean 5 separate flights up the glacier, or 5 tries once on the glacier?  I was camped on the lower ruth, below dickey, so i approached it 5 times. This was before you could fly in directly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 Good thread. A good 25-30 failures on Stuart for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 Good thread. A good 25-30 failures on Stuart for me. Â Awesome! Wear that shit like a merit badge!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 Spearhead 3, snoboy 0 Bugaboo Spire 2, snoboy 0 Ranier 1, snoboy 0 Sky Pilot 3, snoboy 1 Hood 1, snoboy 0 Atwell 1, snoboy 0 Garibaldi 0, snoboy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 I must be extraordinarily lucky with regard to Rainier. Five for five, or two for two in winter. I had a partner who was 0 for 6 on winter attempts before we had our successful trip up Ingraham Direct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 I have only summitted once on three trips to Welch Peak. Truly, I am so suck  In general, failure on a peak either indicates a willingness to attempt things in marginal conditions, or a low skill level.  Let's say, though, that you go in to attempt an unclimbed route and climb an easier, already climbed line instead for some reason. Does that count as "failure" or "success"?  Conversely, you try and climb an established route but get off route and inadvertently establish a new route. Did you "succeed" in climbing a new route or "fail" to climb an existing route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 In general, failure on a peak either indicates a willingness to attempt things in marginal conditions, or a low skill level.  Hmm. I don't know about that. That doesn't really take into account objective hazards, that send you home, that happen on climbs in "good conditions".  Let's say, though, that you go in to attempt an unclimbed route and climb an easier, already climbed line instead for some reason. Does that count as "failure" or "success"? Yeah, probably failure. Or, as a copout, a "diversion"? Conversely, you try and climb an established route but get off route and inadvertently establish a new route. Did you "succeed" in climbing a new route or "fail" to climb an existing route? Probably succeed. If you struggled into the unknown with the skills you have, and deal with obstacles necessary (even though unplanned), fair is fair, and you did the route.  Oh, and to stay on topic, Baker was the difficult one to get, for me. Well, I could've done the C.D. route and tagged it, but I didn't want to do it that way. 3 failures on the North Ridge, and one failure on Coleman HW. Finally, success this year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinkyclimber Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 Spearhead 3, snoboy 0 That's nothing. I have tried 4 fucking times (or maybe 5?), spread over a good 10+ years! Arghh. It's a pansy trip anyways... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 my pattern seems to be that i will often give things a second chance, but if i fail twice on a route (particularly one with a long and tedious approach), that's usually it for me. it's not so much that i lose interest, i just get more interested in somthing else. i can't off the top of my head think of a route that i've failed on more than two times. not stubborn enough, i guess. not enough free time, either, to beat my head against the same wall weekend after weekend. Â it often seems MUCH easier the second time attempting something because you have the approach dialed, the timetable determined, the logistics figured out, but the curve seems to plateau after that. i'm also patient enough that i *usually* will change objectives beforehand or even at the trailhead rather than go for something hard in obviously marginal conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 In general, failure on a peak either indicates a willingness to attempt things in marginal conditions, or a low skill level. Â Hmm. I don't know about that. That doesn't really take into account objective hazards, that send you home, that happen on climbs in "good conditions". Â Â objective hazards = marginal conditions. there will always be another time with lower hazards. seracs, rockfall, forest fires, wet cracks whatever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 Do attempts on Chicas at the climbing gym count? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 More objective hazards involved in that situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 Janez should pipe in on Grand Cappucino, even I got sick of him trying for that one, and I heard he flew back for another try, math guys can bash their head for a while I geuss, maybe thats why their good at math  I think I tried for Samson N face 3 times, never got more than hour from the truck, now that the bridge is gone I geuss I could get more than hour from the truck, not going back for that one, Samson wins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 "Do or not do, there is no try" - Yoda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpine_Tom Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 Whitehorse, as I recall, is one peak with an awful lot of unsuccessful attempts. I'd have to say that I have never had more than one failure on anything. The only unfinished business I have at present is Triumph and Liberty Ridge. I think I need to aim for a higher mark. I am not failing enough. Â I think I've failed on Whitehorse six times (not including once when I got to the trailhead and discovered I'd left my boots at home!) The combination of the low trailhead to suck you in, really heinous schwacking, and a much higher climb than you expect. Still haven't been to the summit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted March 25, 2005 Share Posted March 25, 2005 In general, failure on a peak either indicates a willingness to attempt things in marginal conditions, or a low skill level. Â Hmm. I don't know about that. That doesn't really take into account objective hazards, that send you home, that happen on climbs in "good conditions". Â Â objective hazards = marginal conditions. there will always be another time with lower hazards. seracs, rockfall, forest fires, wet cracks whatever. Â Ok, let me back up here. Are we speaking of "failure" as in " simply not getting to the summit as a whole"? Or are we talking about the failure that one can do something about, but couldn't or didn't do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 25, 2005 Share Posted March 25, 2005 The second is a skill level thing. A better climber would not have made the same mistake (for instance driving to Cache Creek before I realize I forgot not only my bibs but the ropes too ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairweather Posted March 25, 2005 Share Posted March 25, 2005 I wasn't successful on Shasta until my 5th try encompassing over 20 years. I eventually decided that one-day winter ascents of Seargents Ridge in 70mph winds held little hope for me and the 9 hour (one way!) drive required me to make a more concerted effort. Finally climbed it via Avalanche Gulch as a two-day a couple years ago on a relaxing, sunny, windless, and warm June weekend. Â Also; I presently have summitted Rainier 15 times, but I am 0-for-three in winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted March 26, 2005 Share Posted March 26, 2005 The second is a skill level thing. A better climber would not have made the same mistake (for instance driving to Cache Creek before I realize I forgot not only my bibs but the ropes too ) D'oh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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