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Lost: Petzl Quark Ergo North Side Mt Stuart


John Frieh

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Lost (dropped) 1 Petzl Quark Ergo 2003 model. cry.gifcry.gifcry.gif

 

Based on fall line tool should currently be located somewhere in the upper ice cliff couloir directly below the girth pillar on Mt Stuart (just left of the NE face route start)… hopefully not in a crevasse.

 

Tool has 4mm quad pick in it… though there is a good chance the pick is partially snapped off if it is still in tact should have the sharpness/character of a butter knife that has been ran through the kitchen sink garbage disposal one too many times.

 

Tool also has 2 - ½” white hockey tape strips on orange handle that are partially ripped and a piece of duct tape on upper shaft covering the hole for where the bolt would go if one was climbing using the detachable leashes.

 

If you find my tool I will gladly pay your finders fee. Call me: 541.231.2062 wazzup.gif

 

PS: unless you have my tool or know someone who does you likely don’t have a good reason to be posting/spraying in this thread. Thanks! wave.gif

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C'mon, Dru. Can't you read?

 

PS: unless you have my tool or know someone who does you likely don’t have a good reason to be posting/spraying in this thread. Thanks! wave.gif

 

Dru has a good point... My purpose in asking for no spray was I just didn't want this thread to turn into another "found biner on GP" incident. I actually was using tentacles (the grivel double spring) to avoid dropping them (and it was actually working quite well up to that point in the route) but managed to rip the attachment system I had rigged (hence the ripped hockey tape) off and one of the two tools (I was able to hang onto one) took the ride when I factor 1.8ed on the anchor... Lucky for me I was carrying a single aztar with me so I wasn't completely fuct.

 

So… if someone finds my tool I would be stoked to get it back. Please?

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OK, so I've been trying to be a good boy and not start something, but I'm currious about this factor 1.8 fall you took. Now most folks say, "dude I took this wipper," but apparently Paul is out climbing with measuring tape so he can talk about the exact fall factor. wazzup.gif

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Why do I get the feeling I am going to regret this?

 

First: I don’t carry a tape measure in the mtns so the following distances are approximate.

 

Had a 3 piece anchor (2 nuts 1 cam) equalized with a webolette. Initial moves off the anchor looked hard so I clipped the highest piece in the anchor with a draw and clipped both ropes (was climbing on 8.6 half ropes) through this draw. Attempted moves and fell onto draw. My feet were about a foot above the piece I fell on when the fall occurred; as I am 6’ I estimate I fell 8’ (3’ from my harness to my feet + 1’ from my feet to the piece I fell on = 4’ of rope from last piece to harness) on 5’ (4’ from harness to piece + 1’ from belayer’s device to draw) of rope which comes out around 1.6.

 

I am not interested in debating fall factors, what happened, didn’t happen, what I should of done, how much I suck, how small my dick is, how patetic my climbing career is, how stupid NOLS is, my scooping technique, how stupid/cocky/arrogant/shallow/convoluted etc you think I am in lieu of the fact you have never met me and so on (did I miss anything?). If you have further questions/concerns/complaints/jokes/hate mail/etc please just send them to me in pm form… i.e. please just leave this thread alone. If you must to have a dog pile I believe there are a number of excellent threads in spray you could bump back up and have a gay old time at my expense. Enjoy!

 

And as always: if you find my tool give me a shout! See you in the mtns! John wave.gif

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NOLse, Post some of those other pics, like the one you titled "Start of pitch two." and "bailer," I have looked at those about a thousand times today. Maybe it will entice some wanker to go up there and find your tool. Sweet stuff! thumbs_up.gif

 

Weather is suppose to be bad all weekend, new snow won't help anything.

 

Just for the record, where do you think it would have gone then? Up close gainst the right wall, or out into the middle of the upper snow field? Eaither way, I wouldn't worry about it to much, I would give up an ice tool any day to climb that shit. Hell, I would most probably give up two tools. (And for my record, I'm broke.) tongue.gif

 

fruit.gif

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where do you think it would have gone then? Up close gainst the right wall, or out into the middle of the upper snow field?

 

Your guess is as good as mine... if I had to guess I would say slightly climber's left of the pillar proper (we weren’t on Jim’s route). Chances are the tool was flying at that point so it probably cart wheeled a bit into the upper cirque. If memory serves me well I believe there was a crevasse that the tool might have ended up in.

 

With that said even if I get it back (which I would like too) I couldn’t climb on the tool and feel safe about it so I ponyed up last night and bought a new one… big ups to Gavin at US Outdoor (a cc.com sponsor!) for the bro deal! w00t! I think I figured a new attachment system out that should prevent a repeat of this incident.

 

And a few more pics from my pathetic climbing career:

 

Wankster:

4479pitch_1_edit.jpg

Two pair of crampons are aid:

4479start_of_pitch_2_edit.jpg

Tuck tail and bail cry.gif

4479bailer_edit.jpg

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