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Anna

I've been humbled

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I lead up to 10+ trad, TR 11-, and lead 10- on bolts. Is that fucked up or what??

 

I think it is OK to lead trad to yyour limit, if you know what your limit is, and you are a competent trad leader.

 

totally agree...i lead harder with trad cause i get psyched into a lead...with sport...i jsut dont care and usually whip once and give up...the first time i did a hard 10 trad i whiped 2x on teh crux...but i was confident that my gear was bomber...and you just have to knwo when you got a solid piece and that comes with experience...

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Catbirdseat or Brian or whoever,

1)The main difference between leading trad and sport in my opinion is fear. If you are a truly competent trad leader in most situations you should be able to place gear that is sufficient to take falls upon. Yes, you are correct in always checking your gear each time you fall on it. I sometimes even place another piece while hanging just to add a bit of confidence before attempting the moves above again. Leading trad at your limit is simply learning to overcome the fear you have about your gear failing (beside learning to climb cracks).

 

2) Not to say that belay gloves don't work but I've held many falls and never gotten rope burn on my hands. I don't know if they are actually a necessity of climbing if correct belay technique is used and the belayer is paying attention.

 

Sounds like you are used to pushing your limits. If you feel your trad gear placements could be better try just getting alot of practice on easier climbs with someone who can critique them. I learned an immense amount about the stability of placements whilst learning to aid this last year. Whatever your goals, remember to be safe but don't let irrational fears limit you.

 

Carpe Diem

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Tex, I agree with you that fear is the main factor holding me back on trad lead. With more experience, I expect to lead closer to my limit. I don't think that fear is irrational though. One is taking more risk when leading trad compared to clipping bolts. When one gets confidence in his placements and has taken a few falls, the fear should subside.

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My biggest leap in ability came when I learnt to distinguish rational fears from irrational ones.

 

When you have a good piece at you waist and you can't see the next moves, and you don't move up, well that's irrational fear, and if you can control it, you will go far.

 

When you have a shitty piece 5 feet below your feet, and you 10 feet above a ledge, and you can't see the next hold that's a pretty sensible time to get scared!

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totally good point snoboy...it seems that i was either totally controlled by fear...or basking in every moment of it! but now...i am starting to deal with even my rational fear better...but knowing that freaking out will solve nothing and just know you gotta work through it...

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Naw Billygoat, we're just having our own conversation. I suspect Anna has moved on and isn't around much. The issue of fear versus judgement however will never go away.

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you're out of your f'ing mind bringing this one back from the dead.

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hmm my guess is the "real-world" mechanical advantage of a 2:1 pulley system as outlined in intro mountaineering texts.

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WTF is this ancient thread doing back here? I thought it died and went to hell about six months ago! rolleyes.gifrolleyes.gif

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Sphinx said:

WTF is this ancient thread doing back here? I thought it died and went to hell about six months ago!

Someone referred to it here.

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time for the dead thread reanimator to strike again!

 

whatever happened to tyrone shoes and mr. chips?

 

did anna ever climb again? where is the sequel? i heard she hasnt crashed her plane yet so just maybe she did know how to fly.

 

tex, can you tell me what the best way to sew pink webbing onto a #4 snaffle is snaf.gif

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quite the interesting thread and drama too...woman faces near tragedy in the mountains, her soul suffers and she opens up on-line, she seeks support on-line and emotions rise to the surface! In all seriousness I hope that newbies to climbing learn from this. Being new to a forum like this, I know I learned a bit about threads.

 

In terms of the climbing, it is really very simple. It is harder getting down than going up and if you dont know what you are doing, or screw up, you only have yourself to blame. If you are new to the sport, question everything and if it doesnt make sense, find a RELIABLE resource and ask...remember before you start-up on anything, your ass is safe as long as you stay on the ground. Oh yes, and be sensitive to those reaching out for help. Hope everyone is having a great day!

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