John Frieh Posted January 11, 2005 Posted January 11, 2005 Sorry to disappoint but this is not a thread about getting together and pooling money for a group rate on a hooker in NE… (but what you do afterwards is your business) This is a thread for anyone who: - has come to the conclusion that though you spent way more on a pair of ice tools than just about any other piece of equipment you own (rock shoes, etc) you use them way less (if not the least) - has decided that the best place to learn how to dry tool is probably on TR and not 30’ above a bullshit picket somewhere off route on Hood - would like to the chance to “accidentally” drop an ice tool on mine or anyone else’s head from this site you find annoying and/or stupid (sorry I can’t guarantee Iain is going to show ) - need a reason to justify buying new crampons to the wife (look… they’re bent! and dull! please?!?) - are a cute single female who finds bandanas and/or leather vests attractive and additionally has googled the name Michael Layton prior to attending (google block!) - are a scrawny 140 lb boulder who in lieu of the fact that you post numerous pics of your crimp fest exploits and could out crank anyone from this site (if the approach isn’t longer than ¼ mile) for the life of you still can’t seem to impress fellow lady climbers and need to find a more impressive type of climbing - are burnt out on the gym - is just interested in trying out dry tooling… no prior experience required! Bottom line: Myself and a few other social inept have been dry tooling at rock butte for the past few months and thought we’d extend the invite to anyone (lurkers included) interested. Honestly we are a bunch of bumbles so don’t sweat us publicly heckling you if you can’t send M4. This is a great chance to pump your self silly all while trying out yet another type of climbing and meeting some fellow turds from cc.com… think of it as alpiners anonymous… Details: First annual drytool night will be this Wednesday, January 12. Ivan will likely be there first at 3:30ish… I should be there by 4. We generally stay at least a few hours unless people want to come but can’t be there until 6 then I am willing to stay… let me know. We will be climbing c. 150’ climbers left of the silver bullet wall. If you don’t know where this is just follow these instructions: After 3 speedbumps the road bends right and passes a big tan dome building. Park past the big tan dome building (look for a silver pickup), cross the road into the woods and walk c. 100’. You should immediately pass a tunnel on your right that goes underneath the road (good warm up area is you are early). Walk c. 100’ along the top of the cliff looking for some TR anchors/listening for the sounds of shitty footwork with crampons on (screech!) and Ivan’s famous lead mouth . I will put some green glow sticks on the TR anchors so we are more easily identified and it will scare away the bums. If you start to head significantly downhill you have gone too far. What to bring: - helmet (preferable with a face shield or other eye protection… though if you have good looks to spare unlike the rest of us don’t worry about it) If you don’t have one or one with a face shield but would like to have a face shield let me know… we can rotate. - harness with belay device - ice tools if you have them. If you don’t have a pair let me know and it shouldn’t be a problem. - crampons: preferable something with longer points (i.e sabertooths, sarkens, etc). shorter points are okay but you’re going to have to work a little harder. Again if you don’t have them but want to borrow let me know. - boots: leathers climb better but if you want to try and simulate alpine conditions wear what you would in the alpine. Bring ice cubes if you want me to drop them on you if you really want to stimulate alpine conditions. What ever you bring make sure you can get pons on them. - headlamp. If you don’t have a pair let me know and it shouldn’t be a problem. We stay well after sunset so be prepared! - warm jacket (it gets cold), rain gear - beverage of choice (thermos of hot coffee is highly recommended and a good way to make friends and send hard shit ) - either tight fitting full fingered gloves or a lot of tape and band aids (ask Ivan ) With everything you bring don’t bother with your fancy stuff… its muddy and most likely wet… no reason to trash your goretex taking swingers… insulated Carhartt work great. This especially applies to gloves… you will beat on them so what ever they are make sure they aren’t your new pair. And if people want to try out different tools (especially leashless) or crampons (monos) this would be a good opportunity… I am happy letting people test drive my ergos or monos (let me know if this is the case)… I hope others don’t mind sharing too. What to do prior to showing up - pm me and let me know you’re coming so I can determine how many TRs we need - tell your boss you have a dentist appointment or something and need to leave work tomorrow early (or skip your classes if you are a student… that means you OSU!) - if your crampons have two front bail positions move the bail back so you get as much front point showing as possible (and make sure your pons are sized to the boots you plan on wearing - remove your adze unless you are brave enough to cam it - if you have multiple picks put in your most beat up pair… they should be negative-clearance picks… don’t sweat the point of the tool being sharp… just make sure the initial set of teeth are somewhat sharp. If you have your choice put in 4mm picks. Bring an extra pick just in case - take off your antibott plates (especially if you have plastic ones like those on the sarkens)… they unfortunately don’t keep the used condoms from balling up on your pons. Finally Generally we hit burrito loco # 3 afterward for some cheap authentic grub and the chance to cauterize any wounds you incur with the hot sauce there (ask Ivan) and talk shit about routes you found biners on. PM me if you will be joining us! Quote
John Frieh Posted January 11, 2005 Author Posted January 11, 2005 Oh... and I'm going to try and make this a weekly activity so if you can't make it this week you can come next... Quote
ivan Posted January 11, 2005 Posted January 11, 2005 damn...longest invite i ever saw! i enjoyed last weeks session, though it put a crimp in my dry-tooling in the shower crampons work great in preventing a fall down the butte when belaying at the bottom. we should put in a fixed line to make getting out at night easier Quote
nomad Posted January 12, 2005 Posted January 12, 2005 kick ass. how late are you guys staying out? Quote
John Frieh Posted January 12, 2005 Author Posted January 12, 2005 Tentative plan is 3:30ish until 6:30/7 but we can stay later if people aren't showing up until later. If you are securing a kitchen pass with the wife make sure to build in some burrito time into your proposal. PM me with Q's up until 2; after that: cell: 541.231.2062 alphanumeric: 888.267.5727 Quote
ivan Posted January 12, 2005 Posted January 12, 2005 i'll be there in my stealthy mitsubishi mirage bouldering around in plastics on the wall by the road from 330 till whenever someone shows i was thinking climbing the roof of that igloo-like bible college w/ cramps would be both doable and extremely cool Quote
ivan Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 word to the muthafuk'n mother-ship - yet another cool evening in bum-land; though it started w/ rain and the prospects seemed dreary, me, NOLSe and 3 other souls flailed, scratched, scraped and screamed our way aroudn the butte for almost 4 hours. much fun by all - i emerged less worse the wear compared to last week and anticipate another session 7 days from now. didn't get a chance to climb the church - next week? Quote
thenumber3 Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 our points are dull, we need no screws, who are we? we're dry-toolin' fools. oops, sorry. Thought this was the bad poetry forum. Quote
thenumber3 Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 p.s. ladies: word on the street is that he's single! Quote
John Frieh Posted January 17, 2005 Author Posted January 17, 2005 (edited) Roll call bitches This means you Pete! Jan. 20th (unless a different night works for people... let me know). 3:30ish till pump out. PM me if you are coming and if you need/want to borrow any gear (gear/location details above). One addition to gear list: bring a prusik or ascender. Edited January 19, 2005 by NOLSe Quote
ivan Posted January 18, 2005 Posted January 18, 2005 just got back from climbing monday night and gotta make nice w/ the ladies for 2 consecutive evenings...anyone wanna move it to thursday? Quote
Kevin_Matlock Posted January 18, 2005 Posted January 18, 2005 I might not be able to make thurs, but if the other are ok with it go ahead and move it. Quote
MtnHigh Posted January 18, 2005 Posted January 18, 2005 Roll call bitches This means you Pete! Hey, I've been busy watching Rob bleed on the Canadian ice. I'd can make it Thursday if someone else can. Quote
ivan Posted January 18, 2005 Posted January 18, 2005 if you're there thursday pete then so is me...perhaps you'll be more motivated than these other boys to drink some beers afterwards Quote
John Frieh Posted January 18, 2005 Author Posted January 18, 2005 I should be able to make Thursday... I'll know later in the week. Same time? And everyone else: PM me if you still want to go Wednesday... I'd be stoked to go 2 days. Quote
Kevin_Matlock Posted January 19, 2005 Posted January 19, 2005 I'm going to try and rearrange some shit and make it tomorrow instead of tonight. Quote
John Frieh Posted January 19, 2005 Author Posted January 19, 2005 Yeah... I have plans tonight so I vote for Thursday. Please PM me if you are going to attend Thursday so I know how many TRs to bring... unless of course you don't mind standing in line waiting for a TR. Quote
texplorer Posted January 19, 2005 Posted January 19, 2005 There was some real ice in the gorge this weekend. . .well sort of. I found a WI2+ to 3 stuff near Multnomah Falls on Saturday. Crown Jewel looked to maybe be in too that day. Unfortunately I can't make it to drytoolfest this week either as I have class every night except fridays. Enjoy- Quote
John Frieh Posted January 19, 2005 Author Posted January 19, 2005 Hope you can join us some other time Tex... If you want I can give you location specifics and pics of the lines... Before I suckered some partners in crime I had success doing the ascender/chest harness/fixed line thing solo. Let me know… Quote
Crackman Posted January 19, 2005 Posted January 19, 2005 Hoping to make it Thurs night as well. Quote
ajm Posted January 20, 2005 Posted January 20, 2005 Thursdays are definately better for me. I will be there next week on Thursday for sure. Anyone available to give me a ride? Quote
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